Is airbag needed with aftermarket shock? How to fill airbag and leave set?

[Wmoater]

I have on order a new M2 SHOCK for the rear. (2 up and for trailer hitch) I was in bighorns mountains on a very fresh tar chip road that had “not” even been rolled yet. I felt the rear end getting softer. I could hear chips or stone getting shot out of the belt too. That’s another story. Belt is going to need replaced. I knew what was next. Nowhere to go but through. Couldn’t go back it was one way and 50 cars behind. Only option was slow down and take the hits. I even got a few chips in the windshield. That night my compressor for airbag was kicking on and off but no air bag. I hand pump filled it to 70 and it lost air to 30 by morning. Seems to hold air at 20-30. My question is 2 parts. When I install the new shock do I really need the airbag? I ride 60-70 percent 2 up. I just completed a 11500 mile trip with my mini mate trailer. The airbag has always been set on 5 (2017 spyder RTL with the dash button.) I have been reading different threads and all seem to go different ways. Some say bypass and direct line from air intake to bag bypass the relief and compressor others say apply “slime” manual pump and leave go. Others say use this aftermarket bag and others use some kind of rubber fitting. Is there a way to spray gunk in the air valve, fill to 70. Disconnect the compressor and for sure disconnect or cap the relief valve and leave it set at 70. The relief valve even when I fill up to 70 right now is letting what I just put in back out in spirts depending on the position of the bike. I still hear the compressor kicking on. So it’s running quit a bit and will burn out I’m sure. I just set airbag to lowest setting so it stops turning on and off. Seemed to work till I get home to really look at it. So

Do you really need airbag if new aftermarket stiffer shock is installed? I assume yes they serve 2 different purposes but don’t know till I install the new M2 SHOCK

Can I apply slime or gunk to airbag, somehow turn off compressor, manually pump fill bag and stop the relief valve from squatting the air out? Remove the leveling sensor? Just want bag at 70 all the time!

Once I get some responses I’ll be asking more about the reroute of air, hoses, capping, etc of air system.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have on order a new M2 SHOCK for the rear. (2 up and for trailer hitch) I was in bighorns mountains on a very fresh tar chip road that had “not” even been rolled yet. I felt the rear end getting softer. I could hear chips or stone getting shot out of the belt too. That’s another story. Belt is going to need replaced. I knew what was next. Nowhere to go but through. Couldn’t go back it was one way and 50 cars behind. Only option was slow down and take the hits. I even got a few chips in the windshield. That night my compressor for airbag was kicking on and off but no air bag. I hand pump filled it to 70 and it lost air to 30 by morning. Seems to hold air at 20-30. My question is 2 parts. When I install the new shock do I really need the airbag? I ride 60-70 percent 2 up. I just completed a 11500 mile trip with my mini mate trailer. The airbag has always been set on 5 (2017 spyder RTL with the dash button.) I have been reading different threads and all seem to go different ways. Some say bypass and direct line from air intake to bag bypass the relief and compressor others say apply “slime” manual pump and leave go. Others say use this aftermarket bag and others use some kind of rubber fitting. Is there a way to spray gunk in the air valve, fill to 70. Disconnect the compressor and for sure disconnect or cap the relief valve and leave it set at 70. The relief valve even when I fill up to 70 right now is letting what I just put in back out in spirts depending on the position of the bike. I still hear the compressor kicking on. So it’s running quit a bit and will burn out I’m sure. I just set airbag to lowest setting so it stops turning on and off. Seemed to work till I get home to really look at it. So

Do you really need airbag if new aftermarket stiffer shock is installed? I assume yes they serve 2 different purposes but don’t know till I install the new M2 SHOCK

Can I apply slime or gunk to airbag, somehow turn off compressor, manually pump fill bag and stop the relief valve from squatting the air out? Remove the leveling sensor? Just want bag at 70 all the time!

Once I get some responses I’ll be asking more about the reroute of air, hoses, capping, etc of air system.

A heavy duty REAR shock & spring will compress less, however it's the Air Bag that will correct the overall height of the Spyder depending on the load ..... JMHO .... Mike

[Rednaxs60]

My thoughts are yes, air bag required. Have the M2 shocks installed all round. Set the rear shock preload for solo riding. The shock should be set up from the shop for best rebound - may need some tweaking. Use air bag to set ride height for two up, similar to the Gold Wings, especially the 1500. Will take a few trips solo and two-up to dial in the rear shock and air bag system to suit.

If you remove the air bag system and set up for two-up riding, it will be a harsh ride when solo riding.

JMHO. Good Luck. Cheers

[larryd]

I like the air bag system...Its nice to change from 2 up to single riding in a push of the button, and to adjust for different riding conditions...I DON'T LIKE the auto leveling feature...My on demand set up allows me to set the pressure with my dash gauge anywhere I want it...There are several ways to accomplish this...Also a Fernco cup on the bottom of your air bag prevents stone damage to our air bags...If you want to hear about how, PM me and I'll send you my contact info...[I] live in south central PA...larryd

[Mikey]

It sounds like your bag survived the chipped road and is not leaking, because it's holding pressure, if it had a hole there would not be a drop of air in it overnight, you lucked out that way! If I was you, I would put your shock in, put a Fernco cup under the bag, especially if you see a lot of chip roads in your area. Then if it was mine, I would change the system over to a manual fill unhook the compressor set up, and use it as a overload bag for the times you are hauling the trailer or packed heavy on a long trip. When you don't need the extra load help, keep the bag at 10-15 psi, that way the bag doesn't get pinched. Your new shock is going to be set up to carry the bike and load you told them you were hauling, and it will do a lot better job than wat you have now, trust me. You are about to have a great riding bike, don't make it any more difficult than you have to, that switch on the dash and what it is hooked to will not be missed! Good luck!!

[Bunson]

I think the manufacturers have already answered this question. You will be hard pressed to find a bike that does not have adjustable pre-load on the rear, whether it's a collar with spanner wrench or some remote set-up. The difference of adding 100-200 lbs right above the shock is too great. Otherwise, you best believe they would have gone cheaper years ago! I saw somewhere that someone had a shock with remote hydraulic adjuster for the Spyder. It was well over $1000.

[Wmoater]

Spoke with Larryd. Very knowledgeable and informative. Thanks Larry! So I can sort of have an attack plan, I am going to check compressor first, then “checkvalve” then air bag assembly. First figure out which part needs replaced. Will test everything with air and soapy water. Hopefully this will direct me in repairs. I have 3 options then to go with. I wanted a rough idea on costs of Oem rebuild. Manual fill like Mikey said, bypassing or using aftermarket compressor viair like Larry proposed with possibly manual compressor. So just comparing apples to apples. I have the price of OEM compressor and check valve which comes separate. I have price of viair as a replacement compressor which comes with checkvalve. What I don’t have is the airbag unit number. When looking at schematic can someone verify, is the air bag the air manifold part 706001175? Or is the airbag 219800175? Looking for OEM airbag part number.

[larryd]

Here is the post on the Viair 97 vs 95C...

FYI- The Viair 97 was known to blow fuse due to higher (13) amperage. The Viair 95C (silver) or 94 (Stealth Black) draws same (10) amps as the OEM. You just need to drill and tap new holes to change direction of check valve.

From this thread:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...light=Taxmyzer

[Wmoater]

To place a fernco cap under airbag or replace airbag, does the rear tire need removed? The shock will be off since I’m installing a new one. The entire saddle/seat unit will also be removed.

[Wmoater]

I am replacing the airbag. I have read and been told to put a fernco in as added protection since I live on gravel road and tar chip areas. I was told I need to buy a 1/4 or 1/2 longer bolt. First question, does the fernco go under in #1 or ontop #2? I assume under. But why do I need to drill a 1/4 inch hole? There’s nothing there to screw into? So what bolt do I need to buy in this diagram? Or does it go over that plate 310 entirely and buy 2 x320 bolts?


So under? Between bag and plate 310? Or over 310?

[Wmoater]

I see it now! I assume this is the longer bolt needed! So fernco goes on bottom and the hole is for this bolt.