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  1. #1
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    Default "Mechanically-Challenged" Guy Needs Help with Removing License Plate from Spyder

    I have a buyer for my 2016 F3T and it's almost ready to be picked up. My last order of business is removing my license plate, but I'm having a helluva time, so I'm looking for some help.

    The plate is attached using 2 bolts/screws with a "star" insert in the middle. I have the correct hand tool that fits snugly and I can turn the bolts in either direction. I'm turning each counter-clockwise to try and loosen them (Left-Loosey, right?). And I feel the resistance decrease, but then it increases again and the bottom line is that the bolt doesn't get any looser at all. It doesn't even loosen far enough in order to cut the bolt. And I can't reach or see behind the bolt to see whether there's a nut.

    What the heck am I doing wrong?

    Any help/suggestions in getting the plate off to finalize this sale would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Bert
    Bert


  2. #2
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Maybe the bolt is spinning as you try to loosen the nut. Try slipping another spanner in behind the plate so you have a spanner on both ends and give it another crack. A Mirror may help.

    I will be out in my shed in a few hrs from now and I will have a close look at my F3 plate mount.
    Last edited by Isopedella; 04-04-2023 at 12:12 PM.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbert View Post
    I have a buyer for my 2016 F3T and it's almost ready to be picked up. My last order of business is removing my license plate, but I'm having a helluva time, so I'm looking for some help.

    The plate is attached using 2 bolts/screws with a "star" insert in the middle. I have the correct hand tool that fits snugly and I can turn the bolts in either direction. I'm turning each counter-clockwise to try and loosen them (Left-Loosey, right?). And I feel the resistance decrease, but then it increases again and the bottom line is that the bolt doesn't get any looser at all. It doesn't even loosen far enough in order to cut the bolt. And I can't reach or see behind the bolt to see whether there's a nut.

    What the heck am I doing wrong?

    Any help/suggestions in getting the plate off to finalize this sale would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Bert
    This is a common question .... I think you need to get a wrench or needle nose pliers and hold the nuts ...... Mike

  4. #4
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default removing license plate from spyder

    At least on my 2018 F3-T you just reach around and in behind the plate and you can feel the plate bolt retaining nut. Put a wrench on it to hold it while you contort yourself around to loosen the recalcitrant bolt.

    Al in Kazoo
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!

    2018 F3-T


    My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
    2018 F3-T , Pearl White

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    All good answers above. Holding the rear bolt in place should make it work for you.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies, guys.

    So, I see that the consensus is that there's a nut behind the plate. I was afraid of that. It means reaching up into the rear wheel well all while dealing with the curve of the rear wheel. If so, great design, BRP! (sarcasm). Why couldn't they just make easy like it is on most cars?

    I'd need arms as long as a gorilla's to reach up thru there - especially while turning the bolt head on the other side at the same time! If you don't have a lift (I don't), you have to do this while the Spyder is on the ground. You really need two guys to do it in that case IMO. And on top that I'm a 70 year old geezer with arthritis in the shoulders and knees.

    I guess that I'm forced to ride to the dealer now to have them remove it then, and ride home afterwards with no plate on the back. Better use the back roads and hope that I don't get pulled over for not having a plate.

    Sorry for the rant - but it's not aimed at you guys.

    Thanks for the help.
    Bert


  7. #7
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    you can take the rear plastic fender off, if you need too
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



  8. #8
    Very Active Member FrogmanDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbert View Post
    Thanks for the replies, guys.

    So, I see that the consensus is that there's a nut behind the plate. I was afraid of that. It means reaching up into the rear wheel well all while dealing with the curve of the rear wheel. If so, great design, BRP! (sarcasm). Why couldn't they just make easy like it is on most cars?

    I'd need arms as long as a gorilla's to reach up thru there - especially while turning the bolt head on the other side at the same time! If you don't have a lift (I don't), you have to do this while the Spyder is on the ground. You really need two guys to do it in that case IMO. And on top that I'm a 70 year old geezer with arthritis in the shoulders and knees.

    I guess that I'm forced to ride to the dealer now to have them remove it then, and ride home afterwards with no plate on the back. Better use the back roads and hope that I don't get pulled over for not having a plate.

    Sorry for the rant - but it's not aimed at you guys.

    Thanks for the help.
    Every motorcycle I have ever owned was the same way.
    2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
    Peter Pan has struck again!

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Fair enough newburt.

    Thinking I may flick those Queensbury cops a note about an older dodgy looking bloke causing problems about the place who often rides a Can Am Spyder 2016 F3T without a number plate. Uses back-roads to get about the place.

    Hope you enjoy your new ride.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isopedella View Post
    Fair enough newburt.

    Thinking I may flick those Queensbury cops a note about an older dodgy looking bloke causing problems about the place who often rides a Can Am Spyder 2016 F3T without a number plate. Uses back-roads to get about the place.

    Hope you enjoy your new ride.
    LOL! Thanks for the support, but I made it back under cover of darkness.
    Bert


  11. #11
    Very Active Member al0vely's Avatar
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    *lol*
    It was fun to watch a salesman at my local dealer remove my 2016 F3L plate … it took 2 of them and a couple of trips to get more tools. The nut was rusted bad and difficult to remove.

    The 2020 RTL plate install was easy as pie.
    Love my Spyders
    2016 F3L Steel Black purchased 7/16/2016 Sold 3/11/2023 (22,500 mi)

    2014 RTS Circuit Yellow purchased 3/2/2018

    2020 RTL Petrol Blue purchased 1/27/2023

    Girls on Spyders #3195

    No more 2 wheels
    2020 RTL , Lamonster floor board riser Petrol Blue

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Great they were able to sort if for you.

    Those RTL's look like a good bit of kit I have to say, I must admit im a little tempted as well.

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