2019 RTL won't shift up (fixed'ish - only now it's un-fixed again!)

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Update: So I picked her up on Sat, rode and hour back from the shop and no shift issues. Shop said it was my brake flash modulators I got from TRIC LED that was causing my issues. While I was out yesterday it was fine for the 1st hour, then it was randomly refusing to shift up when I hit the paddle. Sometimes I would have to hit the paddle 3-4 times then it would begrudgingly shift. Got to a light and again it wouldn't shift above 1st. Pulled over shut it off, turned it back on and it wouldn't shift into 1st at all. A couple more tries, she went into first and I rode back home without an issue. But twice while trying it at the side of the road when I switched it on nothing came up on the screen, I just had the parking brake and neutral lights. Back to the shop she goes.

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

[EdMat]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

[Mikey]

There have been a few of switch problems on here, and that would be where I would start. But on the other hand, these things have a finicky can bus system and if I had a whole lot of electrical farkels, I may also unhook anyone that I put on just before the issue started! Good luck, electrical gremlins suck!!!

[RTWolfie]

Did the shop disconnect the brake flash modulator? That's one of the first things shops like to do, blame the problem on DIY electrical addons. I would say they don't know what they are talking about. There is no electrical tie-in between the shift circuit and the brake lights.

I really believe it's a deteriorated silicone switch bubble as I described above.

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes they replaced the entire left side cluster under warranty already trying to fix it part #710008164. Brake light modulators were disconnected before I left the shop on Saturday.

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

[Peter Aawen]

That deepens the mystery. I didn't realize you already had the LH switch replaced. My next bet would be a broken or shorted wire or loose or wet connector somewhere in the harness. But then again the fact that several others have had this problem would tend to discount this possibility, except connectors getting wet. Everyone rides in the rain sometime! After that I would consider the replacement switch module is defective, or the transmission control module has a problem. Try to get the shop to replace the TCM and see what happens.

Orrr, maybe they pinched a wire or two when they replaced the LH Cluster... or didn't plug it in properly??

[WRCLVR]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

[BamaJohn]

FYI... Drove the bike home yesterday after the left hand multi switch replacement, ( 1 hour ride ). Shifted fine. Now if the sun would come out I can get back to learning to ride this beast.

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know!

[RTWolfie]

Glad to know it's resolved. You just saved about $400 plus labor getting it done under warranty....ask me how I know!

Up here in Canada they are $829 before install, Glad to have warranty!
I just wished it fixed my issue. Towing back to my dealer is $460 and I've already used both of my auto club tows for the calendar year. BRP will only pony up $200 for a tow.

[ClayJ]

After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.

Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.

In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.

Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.


Photo from my Arizona ride.

424563297_10228314203054372_3923373709784139999_n.jpg

[RTWolfie]

Sounds like what's happening to me. Turning it off and on a few times and it always works again. The shop doesn't seem to be able to get a grip on what's causing it as it's so random. Nice bike, always loved the orange ones!

[RTWolfie]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well she's back in the shop again for round 3. I went to pick up a part at the dealership an hour away and about 2km short of the shop she wouldn't shift again. Pulled over and shut it off and then she wouldn't' go into neutral or 1st, all I could get is reverse. After being shut off for 10 minutes she finally went into 1st so I did the last 2k in first with my hazards on. When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor. Glad I still have warranty, I'm not going to quit until this is fixed. I originally took it to the shop on Dec 8th.

I see you list Monster EFI as a mod. Have you tried running with it not connected?

[AndysF3S]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How would you disconnect a reflash of the ECU without sending the ECM back unless you have the portable flashing unit?

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.

[Snoking1127]

All of this makes me want to use helmet flashers that are not connected to the bike in any way and never use anything connected to the bikes lighting circuit. If i do ever mod, then it will be a fused relay directly from the battery with a kill switch

This brake light circuit is straight for 12V from the battery and the can bus is not involved. Step on the brake pedal with the key not even in the machine and the brake lights work.

Battery - fuse - brake switch - brake lights.

[Snoking1127]

Interesting reading this thread today. Yesterday on our ride (4 Spiders) our ride leader pulled over to the side of the road as her RT would not shift. I didn't ask her what year her RT is, but it's in the 15-18 year range. I was able to get it into reverse, but not any forward gears. Was calling for a tow when someone else was able to get it into 1st.
She then took off for home, but she had to slow down for a turn and when the Spyder down shifted it would not upshift again. We could not get it to upshift, so we pushed it in to a clearing. She rode behind another rider, and we proceeded to her home 70 miles away. Her husband was unable to help, but the lady she rode behind said that she has a Spyder trailer at her place. That was another 30 miles away.
They headed to get that (and her boyfriend to help) and I headed back to her Spyder to wait for them. About 2 hours later they showed up and all 4 of us were able to get it up the ramp and into the enclosed trailer.
The dealer will look at it Wednesday. I think it's the paddle shifter, or gear position sensor.
I do find it interesting that it will go into reverse, but not forward.
Found out it's an 2018.

I was involved with Brenda's shifting failure from the sidelines. My friend Jerry was on that ride and called me. I started doing research on replacing the LHC and found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFoFIGbpcCI&t=6s

It is a really big job to do that left hand cluster replacement. Dealer jerked Brenda around on price and when I was straightened out it was around $1200. The plug on the end of the cable has to be unpinned (lots of wires) to route the cable down the steering column and then all those pins need to be reinserted in the plug. This is all buried deep inside the Spyder.

[RTWolfie]

I realized my mistake after I posted the above. I had in mind one of those add-on devices, and then realized the Monster was a reflash, not an add-on.

I have the handheld "Genius" programming unit as well, and I went back to stock for a week and it still happened. I told the dealer about it so they don't start chasing that route.

[ClayJ]

When I pulled into the shop they pulled the codes and it was giving a U0128 code. So now they are looking at the parking brake and sensor.

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

[RTWolfie]

I really hope they figure something out. I really really hope it's something inexpensive to fix.

Well she's been in the shop for another 2 weeks, that make 7 weeks in the shop since Dec 8th. They are still chasing the U0128 code and also the windscreen motor and sensor which BRP feels might be involved. Man I really miss my bike. I'm second guessing owing this thing but I can't even sell it like it is. I have faith in my shop but they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

[ClayJ]

they are chasing an intermittent issue that occurs at random and then just goes away.

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

[Peter Aawen]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shoudn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck!

[RTWolfie]

At least your mechanics are taking the issue seriously. My mechanic continues to insinuate that I'm an idiot and don't know how to push the shift-up button correctly. "Reproduce the issue and we'll fix it" they said. Otherwise they don't want to waste their time.

I guess I'm lucky then as my shop doesn't question that it happens, it's happened to them as well. My shop loves me and considers me a brand ambassador. I'm also lucky I still have warranty. But I keep wondering if they'll ever find out the cause and what I'll do if they don't. Live with it? Too many computers in these machines!

[Mikey]

If I were dealing with this issue, I would have a hard time not making these issues someone else's! I hate things that don't work as they should, and things these days are too complicated. People like gadgets that involve microchips and switches and all that junk that breaks and is hard to fix. Then you throw in a farkle or two, and all of that has to play well with the rest of the gang. Good Luck to all that are having this issue, I would lose my mind if I was you, and some lighting would strike!!

[RTWolfie]

I'm pretty sure there's TSB's out there about your issue &/or the LH Control Module Failures; a bit of searching & reading should find everything that applies. Take copies of the TSB details to your dealer and ask them to deal with it &/or open a case with BRP... and if they don't, send an email direct to BRPCares (there's an email address here too, shouldn't take much of a search to find that) explaining your issue and the dealer's lack of interest in even looking into the TSB; and when you send it, add a CC copy to your local Better Business mob, or whatever it is you have over there. The BRPCares mob might take a bit of a while sometimes, but they generally get the wheels moving when nothing else works! Good Luck!

They have already replaced the LH switch cluster, unfortunately it didn't solve the issue. Neither has disconnecting all of my aftermarket tail lighting. My dealer is really good and I believe they are trying to solve the issue, but the fact is only shows up randomly is making it hard for them to nail down the cause. They have been in contact with BRP and have an active case going with them.