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C1282 fault on 2012 RT - any simple fixes?
My new to me 2012 RT (16000kms) has been running well but I've ridden 4000kms in the past month and decided to check the brake fluid levels. All I did was remove the brake master cylinder caps. The levels appeared to be fine so I refitted the caps, started it up and now this C1282 fault code has popped up. Nothing else was disturbed.
I cleaned up the surrounding area beforehand so no issues with contamination.
Can anyone suggest a simple cure?
Thanks
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-16-2022 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: Revised title to briefly ask question... ;-)
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
If I've got it right, that particular C1282 code is a warning re the Lamp - ABS Warning Output Circuit Failure, but I wonder if that's not just cos you didn't top the reservoir fluid up enough; or maybe didn't put the brake reservoir lids on the wrong way? It's actually pretty critical to keep the fluid level up, to get the lids on properly, and to make sure that floats are free to move in there....
So maybe you should check the floats, check the fluid is right up to the top, and check that when you put the caps back on, the raised ridge faces towards the rear (?) of the Spyder (someone please correct me if I've got that a-about!?? )
Good Luck!
Thanks for your reply!
What is the correct way to fit the covers? Is there a specific position, there does'nt seem to be any markings as to direction it should lie.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-17-2022 at 12:25 AM.
Reason: Quote first, then reply ;-)
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Dubliner
Thanks for your reply!
What is the correct way to fit the covers? Is there a specific position, there does'nt seem to be any markings as to direction it should lie.
Ahh, but there ARE markings - just not obvious markings!! . If you look at/feel the top of the black caps that go on the reservoirs, they each have one raised bump/ridge/bubble on the top/edge - just one little bubble each, that sticks up higher than the rest of the lid, where the writing is..... well, if you think of the front of the Spyder as being 12:00 o'clock & the rear being 6:00 o'clock, then those little bubble bits should both be pointing at 5:00 o'clock!
Oh, and the rubber diaphragm/gasket inside each lid should all be tucked up INTO the lid too - if any of it's hanging down below the lid, it's cos it's been sucked down by changing pressure as the brake fluid level has dropped when the pads wore (in an attempt to keep air/moisture from getting in on top of & being absorbed into the brake fluid ) so if either or both diaphragm/gaskets are protruding out of the lid proper, you'll hafta make sure your hands/fingers are clean & dry (or that you're wearing DRY rubber gloves!) and then gently poke them back up into the lid so that nothing hangs any lower than the cap thread - then before you touch ANYTHING, carefully wash & dry your habpnds again (cos brake fluid will eat into paint & plastic, of which there is an abundance around our Spyders! ) then put a cloth around the cap holes to catch any drips of brake fluid & make sure that the brake fluid level is almost up to the rubber diaphragm/gasket! And then put the caps back on properly & facing the right way, and clean up any mess immediately with copious quantities of clean water.... or you might find everywhere to brake fluid has touched or been rubbed starts losing paint &/or flaking apart!
Btw, even being down just a 1/4 of a teaspoon full of brake fluid can cause brake warnings, so do make sure you top both reservoirs up with fresh fluid, and just poke the float/level sensor down a little so that when it bobs back up you know that it's floating free & in the right spot, which is just off-centre to each cap hole.
Over to you!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Thanks very much for your detailed reply. I’ll have another go at it later today.
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Very Active Member
Peter is spot on in his description of Spyder brake master cylinders. I’d be willing to wager that almost everyone that has ever done brakes on our machines has run in to one seemingly unrelated alarm after another. Read and heed our advice from down under.
David
2011 RTS 2006 Yamaha Morphous
2017 F150 2015 MINI Cooper S IBA 56167
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So since yesterday, I removed any fluid from both master brake cylinders and filled with fresh. No change! From another post suggesting disconnecting the battery. I did that too but no change.
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Active Member
On my 2012rts that number came up also. I replaced brakes all around and speed bleeders the brakes were about gone. I bled the brakes nothing help. Went to can am dealer hooked it up to buds that fixed it
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Code C1282 continued...
I ordered some Speedbleeders and brake pads which I hope to install this week. I've discovered one advantage to this C1282 fault. I can go directly into reverse without having to go into first gear first!
I'm wondering how much it costs to have a technician check with the BUDS system? If it's in the $600 plus realm I might as well buy the system myself.
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