A bit of a dilemma on parking brake issue

[cruisinTX]

I wrestled with getting my rear wheel back on yesterday. Seems it was a bit more difficult than the last time I did it. Success was finally mine until I went for a test ride. Now the parking brake appears to be jammed in the disengaged position. Everything else is working fine and the only big annoyance is that the warning beeper of it not being set when you turn the key off. Otherwise, the brakes work fine. My question for now is, "will the nanny eventually detect an error and throw the system into limp mode with this or is it safe to drive until I have time to take the caliper off and investigate further?" I can deal with no parking brake as none of the bikes have it but eventually need to get rid of the beep by doing a proper fix on this. FWIW, the test ride was 36 miles with no issues; even stopping and trying to set the parking brake a couple of times. I could hear the servo working but nothing in the way of a brake engaging. When I got home, a neighbor was outside, so I asked him to engage and disengage the brake a couple of times while I watched the mechanism--there was no movement, and I noticed the ferrule on the unit going into the cable being split. Will get pictures of that up later today.

TIA

[Little Blue]

...Seems like this is an adjustment issue. Not sure about the amount of adjustment that you need.
My question for you is, what did you do when you removed your parking brake assembly? Did you lose the washers or something? Did you loosen the cable?

Need additional information about the problem.

Stay Healthy. ....

[Mikey]

[cruisinTX]

Didn't mess with the cable and had no left-over parts. I did struggle getting the pads to slip back over the disc but managed to align them with a flat screw-driver and had to use quite a bit of force to work the whole thing in place once I had it started.

[Little Blue]

...If something goes together tight, then you have a little problem. I have adjusted my Spyder parking brake as per the service manual.
My Tip either purchase a service manual or ask your Dealer for a copy of the pages about checking/adjustment on your parking brake.

Check out an U-Tube.

Over to you. ....

[cruisinTX]

While I'm researching this problem, the Spyder seems to be OK with the parking brake not working except for the annoying beeping for a few seconds each time I stop and turn off the ignition. That leads me back to my original question, "will the nanny eventually detect an error and throw the system into limp mode with this or is it safe to drive until I have time to take the caliper off and investigate further?" My test ride to distribute Ride-On Sealant/Balancer in the tires was 36 miles with no issues.

[Chrono00]

While I'm researching this problem, the Spyder seems to be OK with the parking brake not working except for the annoying beeping for a few seconds each time I stop and turn off the ignition. That leads me back to my original question, "will the nanny eventually detect an error and throw the system into limp mode with this or is it safe to drive until I have time to take the caliper off and investigate further?" My test ride to distribute Ride-On Sealant/Balancer in the tires was 36 miles with no issues.

I would like to know this too.

I have the brake failure message after a little rain, and the parking brake won’t engage. as far as i can tell everything else seems to be fine. But will riding with the brake failure cause any other issues? And any advice on how to possibly fix it?

[cptjam]

If the cable does not move at the caliper when you push the button, it has come off the other end. Put it back on, adjust, and be done. Call if you get stuck. Joe

[Chrono00]

If the cable does not move at the caliper when you push the button, it has come off the other end. Put it back on, adjust, and be done. Call if you get stuck. Joe

I took a video of me pushing the button, you can hear it turning and making kind of a clunk sound. Is that an indication the cable is loose/off?

[davev1pa]

If the cable does not move at the caliper when you push the button, it has come off the other end. Put it back on, adjust, and be done. Call if you get stuck. Joe

Yes definitely check the front pulley...cable sounds like it slipped off.

[Chrono00]

Yes definitely check the front pulley...cable sounds like it slipped off.

I checked my front like in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84MO8NklnhE

The cable was off the tracks. I was able to get it back in place, but the bike is still giving me a brake failure message. Idk if after turning it off and letting it sit it will reset the message? Could there be another issue as well?

[Peter Aawen]

I checked my front like in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84MO8NklnhE

The cable was off the tracks. I was able to get it back in place, but the bike is still giving me a brake failure message. Idk if after turning it off and letting it sit it will reset the message? Could there be another issue as well?

If the cable was off the tracks, I reckon there's a good chance that the little bit of spring steel with a roller on one end & the Park Brake micro-switch on the other end got bent, so now it's not making/breaking the micro-switch as & when it should when it gets lifted by the lump on the actuator wheel! That'll mean there's not likely any other issue, & the brakes work properly, including the Park Brake, but cos the switch isn't telling the computer the right things as & when it should, you'll still get a brake failure warning! Check that big black disc area of the brake activation while it's operating, and watch to see if the little roller operates the micro switch at all - it'll probably need some careful bending to get it back in the right place/doing the right thing, but do be careful - if you break the spring steel bit off the brake micro-switch, you'll hafta buy & install a complete new switch!

Over to you!

[Chrono00]

I’m definitely more of a visual learner, so I’m not sure I picked up everything you were saying lol

[Isopedella]

That video. Thinking if you loosen off the other nut behind the mount you will get more cable to work with and you wont have to bend it like that. Connect to the wheel. Wind up the slack on the rearmost nut to set the desired tension. Then tighten the foremost nut. Lessens the chance of bending the cable. Just my 2c worth.

[Chrono00]

Ah ok. Sounds like what I did. When I re attached it, I hit the parking brake button a few times to let it run, and when turning the brake off, the wire was kind of bunching up as it reeled back. So I tightened it up and it seemed to do a lot less of that extra slack bending out

[Peter Aawen]

I’m definitely more of a visual learner, so I’m not sure I picked up everything you were saying lol

Everyone's a visual learner to some degree, but you still need some sort of description/explanation/running commentary on what's going on or you'll never actually 'learn' anything, even if you get to the stage that you can 'mimic' it without understanding it! . And you don't need to pick up all the description/commentary instantly, nor should you necessarily expect to completely or even just in part understand the 'description/commentary' UNTIL you actually watch what happens as that big black disc turns; but hopefully, when you do watch it and you look for the things I've described it'll start to make more sense, maybe even enough to let you understand what's going on and so learn how to fix it But without that description/commentary, even if it doesn't make sense until you SEE it happening in front of you, the whole thing will very likely STILL be as clear as mud! . So juuust take this in for now, then when you get out there and actually watch it all happen, maybe enough of it will then start to make sense, such that you can get it all sorted?! .

Anyhow, there's a little roller held onto the outside rim of the disc by a length of spring steel, & the other end of the spring steel is connected to the Park Brake micro-switch... this is so that when the disc rotates, the roller is lifted or dropped by the raised tag you can see just ahead of where the cable connects to the disc, and by that raising or lowering of the roller & therefore the micro-switch, it activates the micro-switch to tell the computer that the PBrake is on or off as appropriate... OK so far?? Now in the event of the cable coming off, that big black disc can turn further than it should, catching the little roller on the wrong side of the tag & bending the spring steel bit so that the roller no longer activates the switch properly &/or at the right time, causing you the warnings & grief that you're getting now!

So if you LOOK at the disc while you activate the Park Brake, and you locate then watch the micro-switch & the spring steel bit (that should be almost straight but is probably bent ), then try to visualise where the roller would need to be on the circumference of the disc in order for it to be raised and lowered by the placcy tag that sticks out just so it can do this.... it's fairly easy to see if you actually watch it, but it's a lot harder to explain without one on hand to demonstrate.... so you really need to give it a go and watch it with this description in the back of your mind - &!it probably won't become any more clear until you do do this!

So go on, watch the big black disc rotate as you turn on/turn off the Park Brake, and try to see where the little roller on the end of the almost straight piece of spring steel should be in order for it to move up & down that tag & activate the micro-switch as it does so - then once you've got that worked out, CAREFULLY straighten the spring steel enough for the roller to sit where it needs to sit & roll & put just enough tension in the pressure of the roller on the disc to activate the micro-switch. Get that sorted, and there's a very good chance your Brake Warnings will go away, but you'll hafta do the visual bit with the description already in mind...

Good Luck! :