Are High Idle revs at start up normal?

[5speed]

My wife's bike (2020 F3) idles at 13-1400 rpm's when you first start it.
I've read that the idle should drop to 900.
After letting it sit and idle for 5 minutes yesterday the idle dropped to 1000.
The bike clunks bad when you put it in gear which I'm attributing to the high idle.
Should the revs drop down sooner than 5 minutes?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My wife's bike (2020 F3) idles at 13-1400 rpm's when you first start it.
I've read that the idle should drop to 900.
After letting it sit and idle for 5 minutes yesterday the idle dropped to 1000.
The bike clunks bad when you put it in gear which I'm attributing to the high idle.
Should the revs drop down sooner than 5 minutes?

I have the same engine/trans that you do .... a 14 RT with 80,000 + miles .... on a cold start the revs are 1100 + rpm's and they drop to 900 in about ONE minute ..... this lowers the CLUNK quite a bit .... Yes, the Rev's will affect the clunk, but that's because the trans has STRAIGHT cut gears, and there will always be some clunk when first selecting any gear from Neutral ....Good luck ... Mike

[Jetfixer]

You will probably need a BUDS2 diagnosis of the issue. Sounds like Throttle Position Sensor needs to be recalibrated.

[Allen42]

My 2019 RTL does exactly the same, and dealer said this was perfectly normal, and I could let it wait until it warmed up and went down to 800-900 rpm, or just wait about 1 minute for the oil to circulate and take off - whichever I preferred.

I tend to start it, suit up, wait for my backseat to suit up and get on, and then take off. Which means I'm pretty close to fully warmed up, lol.

[Allen42]

on a cold start the revs are 1100 + rpm's and they drop to 900 in about ONE minute

My 2019 RTL is more like 5 minutes+

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey 5speed. I agree with Allen on this. BRP has made some changes to the programming since the beginning of the 1330. Just the other morning, after a particularly nippy night, my 1330 took at least 5 minutes to reach 1000RPM, also. The key is that if it operates normally once the engine and oil temperature are warmed up.

This looks like a new to you machine and you are still getting used to what is normal. That's OK. The clunk. Well, you didn't mention whether you have a SM6 or SE6. There's the cold oil effect because it is thicker and drags on the clutch. Unless it is louder than a Harley, not really a concern on a cold startup. Also, was this machine up to date on the maintenance. What oil is in it, etc. Like any used vehicle, you'll need to get used to what is normal, check out the maintenance schedule in the operator's guide, and if there is any doubt, do the item. Ride, Ride, Ride more, read and follow the manual, and stay off of the computer.

[5speed]

Thanks for the info folks.
We bought it "as new" from a can am dealership. they had lent the bike to the provincial motorcycle safety course folks.
It had 300 kms on it when we got it.
I can see it taking a bit longer to warm up if it's cold out but it wasn't cold yesterday and it still took 5 minutes to drop to 1000 rpm and that clunk is not easy on the transmission at 1300-1400 rpm.
I'll call the dealership and see what they say.

[2dogs]

When you first fire up your spyder watch the tach and just as the needle reaches its peak RPM, it will drop back just a little, then shift into first or reverse and you won't hear that clunk. You have to practice to catch that sweet spot, but it's there if you can find it. Actually the colder the oil is the quieter it is when you catch it just right. The clunking sound is just a sound. It doesn't hurt a thing and when engaged the engine should idle down much quicker. Happy hunting. It takes practice and even I don't catch it 100% of the time.

[5speed]

gotta disagree, that clunk isn't just a sound, it's gears engaging at a higher rpm than they should be.
Eventually something is going to break..
If it's suppose to drop to 900 rpm at idle than that's what I'm going for.

[Peter Aawen]

gotta disagree, that clunk isn't just a sound, it's gears engaging at a higher rpm than they should be.
Eventually something is going to break..
If it's suppose to drop to 900 rpm at idle than that's what I'm going for.

Sorry 5speed, while yours might be a little worse than most due to the slightly higher revs that it seems is common to your year/model Spyders (which apparently are programmed NOT to drop to 900 rpm until quite some time after starting & they've started moving! ) that clunk IS quite normal and if you ever get to the situation where your Spyder ISN'T doing it to some noticeable degree, then something is DRASTICALLY WRONG!!

Do some searching of the older threads here, newbies to these gearboxes/constant mesh transmissions have been concerned about 'the clunk' since around 2008/the release of the very first Spyders, and there's a LOT of discussion on it, but NO DAMAGE reported that's ever been attributable to it, even on those Spyders out there that now have done well over 150,000 miles! This clunk occurs because these things run a constant mesh transmission with straight cut gears, so once it's all up & running as you're riding along, the gearbox input and engine output are both turning at the same speed, and you don't experience the clunk on any gear-changes then! BUT, when you first start the engine, the gearbox is not yet turning because there's no gear selected, it's in Neutral. So when you do first select a gear from Neutral, you are meshing already turning engine components with the stationary gearbox components and there's a clunk, regardless of you selecting First or Reverse. ALL constant mesh gearboxes do this, and straight cut gears make the clunk sound/feel worse cos there's no real way to avoid or minimise the basic physics of conservation of energy & movement - something that's moving wants to keep moving; something that's stopped wants to stay stopped; and when you force the square cut gears together to match rotational speeds with the engine, there WILL be a clunk!!

Sure, you can damp that clunk down a bit by using (or forcing ) it to occur at lower revs than are ideal, risking stalling &/or other damage; maybe you can do that by using a heavier oil (that'll cost you fuel economy and power & likely do other damage besides ), or it might happen a tad less obtrusively when the oil is cold/not yet up to its operating temp (which takes far longer to reach than the coolant does! ) & therefore at the heavier weight end of its rating anyway; but if you bother to do the searching and reading, or even if you just go and check out any other motorcycle or car/truck/semi you can find with a constant mesh transmission and square cut gears, you WILL find that they ALL WILL clunk when first selecting any gear from Neutral!

If you want to fret about it & waste good riding time chasing it, then of course that's your privilege; but unless it's a massive noise & jolting shock that pretty much throws you off the Spyder (& if you're not used to it, maybe even then! ) there's a very good & highly likely chance that you're simply experiencing the 'to be expected' clunk that's normal, yet has concerned newbies to these types of gearboxes/transmissions since they were first invented; and the reality about our Spyders is that there is always going to be some clunk on first selecting any gear after Neutral - there HAS to be, at least until the basic laws of physics as we know them change!

Ride More, Worry Less!!

[2dogs]

5speed, here's a week's worth of info on straight cut gears. Check it out.
https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...-wiz-serp#ip=1

[Mikey]

Sometimes we worry a thing to death! Talk to your dealer, come back and tell us what he said, because we all are going through the same thing you are, and we are still running the roads just fine. good luck!

[5speed]

5speed, here's a week's worth of info on straight cut gears. Check it out.
https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...-wiz-serp#ip=1

tks. I'm familiar with what straight cut gears are.

[5speed]

Sometimes we worry a thing to death! Talk to your dealer, come back and tell us what he said, because we all are going through the same thing you are, and we are still running the roads just fine. good luck!

I'm not worrying to death about it.
My wife dished out a lot of money for the bike and if something is wrong I'm getting it checked.
She bought a ryker brand new in 2019 and yes it clunked when you put it in gear but not as bad as the spyder does.
If it isn't revving as high the impact on the gears won't be as bad...why would anyone not want to get it fixed?