What 36mm wrench to remove rear tire?

[Bensonoid]

I got this one from ebay for under $20. w/ free shipping. It's made by pit posse.s-l1600.jpg

[Yabbadabbadoo]

I have 2 twelve point sockets. I've had the rear wheel off/on and axle loosened a few times for tire change and belt adjustments. No sign of the nut getting rounded.

I will add that for $125 for the tire change I would now pay that rather than doing it myself!

[thereverend]

i HAD TO PAY $125.00 FOR REMOVAL AND $125.00 TO REINSTALL. i WILL BE DOING THE NEXT ONE.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

That would probably work but would take up too much space. I was thinking of the kind of airbag that you put inside of a coil spring on trucks, it will collapse down to nothing and weighs nothing, and I always carry a tiny compressor.

I had those ( air bags ) for my toyo pk-up .... they were not small, nor were they collapsible. Also, unless encased inside something, they weren't stable for lifting anything..... Good luck .... Mike

[bayoumanPIBE]

I just picked up a 36mm 12pt from Menards
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/h...8245253&ipos=1.

It doesn't bite on tight and is loose as if it will strip...is this normal? I say not, but Spyders have surprised me many-a-times.

FYI. I have a 2021 F3 Ltd if it makes a difference on the year...

Reiterate and add Questions
1. Should the 36mm 12 point wrench be loose? I know we all have diff definitions of loose...just too much play.
2. Should there be a cotter pin on the right hand side / brake side of the rear axle nut?
3. Are ya'll testing belt tension while it's cold or hot?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I just picked up a 36mm 12pt from Menards. It doesn't bite on tight and is loose as if it will strip...is this normal? I say not, but Spyders have surprised me many-a-times.

FYI. I have a 2021 F3 Ltd if it makes a difference on the year...

Do you have a pair of calipers you can measure the opening? If so, to my way of thinking the opening shouldn't be more than maybe 36.1 or 36.2 mm. I just checked my two 36 mm sockets. They are about 36.1 to 36.2 mm across the flats. Even my no-name HD/VW 36 mm axle nut wrench such as the one shown in an earlier post is about 36.2 across the flats. I bought a set of Harbor Freight crow foot wrenches about a year ago. The one I needed to use, 18 mm, was a loose fit. When compared to my 30+ year old Craftsman 18 mm open end wrench the opening was quite a bit bigger. I returned the set.

If the wrench you bought was economy priced with an oddball name, or the name of a line of cheap tools, then yes, it probably is much looser than it should be. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for!!!!!!!

[bayoumanPIBE]

I unfortunately do not have anything to measure... I do agree about what you get for the price we're willing to pay. The wrench is by a company I have not heard of (Masterforce), but that does not mean it's good or bad...might be a Menards brand. Pending life...I might go find another wrench (or the like) or order one a few others showed they purchased and used. I was hoping to test again this "since day-1 non-stop shaking" issue while it's not snowing. Maybe the nuts are stripped from the dealerships all messing with it...will check asap.

[Knizar]

I just picked up a 36mm 12pt from Menards
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/h...8245253&ipos=1.

It doesn't bite on tight and is loose as if it will strip...is this normal? I say not, but Spyders have surprised me many-a-times.

FYI. I have a 2021 F3 Ltd if it makes a difference on the year...

Reiterate and add Questions
1. Should the 36mm 12 point wrench be loose? I know we all have diff definitions of loose...just too much play.
2. Should there be a cotter pin on the right hand side / brake side of the rear axle nut?
3. Are ya'll testing belt tension while it's cold or hot?

I don't believe you will have any problem with those sockets. Just don't use an impact wench on them!...Bill ...

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I just picked up a 36mm 12pt from Menards
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/h...8245253&ipos=1.

It doesn't bite on tight and is loose as if it will strip...is this normal? I say not, but Spyders have surprised me many-a-times.

FYI. I have a 2021 F3 Ltd if it makes a difference on the year...

Reiterate and add Questions
1. Should the 36mm 12 point wrench be loose? I know we all have diff definitions of loose...just too much play.
2. Should there be a cotter pin on the right hand side / brake side of the rear axle nut?
3. Are ya'll testing belt tension while it's cold or hot?

I don't know about a 12 pt socket but mine is a 6 pt and it worked great. I would be hesitant to put 166 ft-lbs of torque on that socket of yours if it is not snug - you might have a bigger headache if the nut corners get rounded.
There was no cotter pin on my 2020 RT although it looked like there should have been one. But I now have 10K miles so far and it is holding tight so I guess no need for it.
When I changed the OEM Kenda at 4K miles, I didn't touch the pulley-side axle adjuster when I changed it so I didn't think it necessary to check the tension at that time. I will check it on the next change though. Doesn't hurt to check it. You can buy one of those Cricket tools for around $15 from Amazon. Don't ask me how to use one cuz I haven't used mine yet.

BTW, a shallow socket worked best for me. It gave me a little extra room to get the torque wrench in there between the muffler and the swingarm. There is a cable that got in the way too - can't remember but seems like it was the emergency brake cable.

[RICZ]

WILCO.......Buy a Krikit II - you will be doing readings in the 150 +/- 10 range, so get one that reads no more than 200. They come with directions for use and it's very simple. You just have to be careful not to touch it on anything as you are withdrawing it. That'll need some practice.
When you have it, get on the floor and take readings half way between the pulleys. Take a few, so you know that they are correct. Rear wheel on the floor is 150 to 160. Off the floor is 140. Factory spec has is too tight and produces belt vibration. I now have none - no add on tensioner needed. And the bearings have an easier life too.
I wouldn't wait until the next change, check the belt more frequently.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

It's been a long time since I replaced the tire so it's about time to check mine. But I'm reluctant to do it because I might find I should change the belt tension and I've had such a devil of a time setting it and keeping the belt aligned I don't really want to touch it!

[RICZ]

It's been a long time since I replaced the tire so it's about time to check mine. But I'm reluctant to do it because I might find I should change the belt tension and I've had such a devil of a time setting it and keeping the belt aligned I don't really want to touch it!

Someone recently posted a way of thinking that simplifies the job. The left adjuster is for belt tension, the right for alignment.
Apply some anti seize on the working surface of the bolt head and nut and they won't crawl.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Someone recently posted a way of thinking that simplifies the job. The left adjuster is for belt tension, the right for alignment.
Apply some anti seize on the working surface of the bolt head and nut and they won't crawl.

Makes sense. However, even grease on both sides of the washer under the nut didn't keep it from crawling! The big problem is, and it's been mentioned before on here, is the lack of an adjuster that will keep the axle from moving rearward. I don't remember now but I may have finally resorted to torquing the bolt head while keeping the nut fixed. Studies I came across indicate it doesn't matter much at all which end of the bolt is torqued.

[EdMat]

Someone recently posted a way of thinking that simplifies the job. The left adjuster is for belt tension, the right for alignment.
Apply some anti seize on the working surface of the bolt head and nut and they won't crawl.

That is how I have found to make the simplest belt adjustments.

[RICZ]

Makes sense. However, even grease on both sides of the washer under the nut didn't keep it from crawling! The big problem is, and it's been mentioned before on here, is the lack of an adjuster that will keep the axle from moving forward. I don't remember now but I may have finally resorted to torquing the bolt head while keeping the nut fixed. Studies I came across indicate it doesn't matter much at all which end of the bolt is torqued.

Maybe your bike is different, but when I'm adjusting the belt, I have someone press their feet hard against the back of the tire to pressure the wheel forward. Works for me.

[pegasus1300]

I have found that if I use a ratchet type tie down strung from the rear tire to a footpeg I can put enough pressure to keep the wheel from moving while torquing the nut.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Maybe your bike is different, but when I'm adjusting the belt, I have someone press their feet hard against the back of the tire to pressure the wheel forward. Works for me.

You're right. I got it bass ackwards! Just remembered how the adjusters work. I was trying to figure out why, if the axle wants to move forward, I put a wedge shaped block between the tire and swingarm on the brake side to keep it from moving.

[RudyB]

He needs a 36mil open box end wrench and cut it hslf