What 36mm wrench to remove rear tire?

[Wmoater]

My local dealer has raised his prices to $125 to remove, install and assemble the rear tire on the bike. I know most dealers will not even install car tires but mine does as long as I supply the tire. It was $55 plus tire disposal 2 years ago. For $125, I might as well try removing it myself. They will mount the tire for $30 if not on bike. That is my plan. Remove it myself, have them mount the tire and I re-assemble. This will also allow me to check the front sprocket. I have no problems understanding how to remove it after watching a couple videos. My question is……. I have a good set of snapon axle nut sockets and both flex and standard 1/2” long drive ratchets. So the 36mm socket it no problem. I have never had a reason for a 36mm wrench. I really don’t want to spend $160 on a 36 mm snapon wrench and only use it 2 or 3 times in its lifetime. I looked on amazon and eBay. They range from $25-$50. Sunex to prono to gearwrench, More expensive Mac and even Williams. What wrench are you guys using to remove your rear tire? I’ve read a bunch of threads and several said buy off eBay and amazon. Are you using a $25 sunex wrench, $50 prono or gearwrench or $70 Mac or Williams wrench. Everything I also saw is 12 point which I am worried about stripping with a cheap wrench if that sounds right. Which wrench do you use to remove the rear tire axle nuts?

[M109Dreamer]

My local dealer has raised his prices to $125 to remove, install and assemble the rear tire on the bike. I know most dealers will not even install car tires but mine does as long as I supply the tire. It was $55 plus tire disposal 2 years ago. For $125, I might as well try removing it myself. They will mount the tire for $30 if not on bike. That is my plan. Remove it myself, have them mount the tire and I re-assemble. This will also allow me to check the front sprocket. I have no problems understanding how to remove it after watching a couple videos. My question is……. I have a good set of snapon axle nut sockets and both flex and standard 1/2” long drive ratchets. So the 36mm socket it no problem. I have never had a reason for a 36mm wrench. I really don’t want to spend $160 on a 36 mm snapon wrench and only use it 2 or 3 times in its lifetime. I looked on amazon and eBay. They range from $25-$50. Sunex to prono to gearwrench, More expensive Mac and even Williams. What wrench are you guys using to remove your rear tire? I’ve read a bunch of threads and several said buy off eBay and amazon. Are you using a $25 sunex wrench, $50 prono or gearwrench or $70 Mac or Williams wrench. Everything I also saw is 12 point which I am worried about stripping with a cheap wrench if that sounds right. Which wrench do you use to remove the rear tire axle nuts?

The is the one I purchased for $16

https://www.amazon.com/Sporthfish-Wr...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I use it with a breaker bar and a torque wrench without any issues.

[EdMat]

I purchased the Sunex https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Finish no quite up to Snap-on or Mac standards bit fits fine and it will outlast me.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you have a pair of channel locks you can use that to hold the end of the bolt or even better have any plumbing wrenches ???? .... The nut side is the critical piece and you have the 36mm socket ..... jmho .... good luck ..... Mike

[sfcarn]

I have an evercraft 36mm combination wrench bought at Napa $35.99

[Wmoater]

If you have a pair of channel locks you can use that to hold the end of the bolt or even better have any plumbing wrenches ???? .... The nut side is the critical piece and you have the 36mm socket ..... jmho .... good luck ..... Mike

If I was on the road I’d use channel locks or pipe wrench but since I’m in a garage and have tools I’d rather use a standard wrench. Just the old school dad taught me and I passed on to to my kids also. I agree it will work, but I prefer a wrench over channel locks. There is a place and time for those tools. Thanks

[arkyleo]

I have an evercraft 36mm combination wrench bought at Napa $35.99

I already had a 36mm socket, but it was 12 point--so I ordered a shallow 6 point 1/2" drive from e-bay and it looks great. For the tightening torque (nut side) I think the 6 point should be better and just hold the other side with the 12 point socket.

[Haze]

I use this Buell 6 point wrench from Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112489151930

36mm Wrench.jpg

[Motorcycledave]

My local dealer has raised his prices to $125 to remove, install and assemble the rear tire on the bike. I know most dealers will not even install car tires but mine does as long as I supply the tire. It was $55 plus tire disposal 2 years ago. For $125, I might as well try removing it myself. They will mount the tire for $30 if not on bike. That is my plan. Remove it myself, have them mount the tire and I re-assemble. This will also allow me to check the front sprocket. I have no problems understanding how to remove it after watching a couple videos. My question is……. I have a good set of snapon axle nut sockets and both flex and standard 1/2” long drive ratchets. So the 36mm socket it no problem. I have never had a reason for a 36mm wrench. I really don’t want to spend $160 on a 36 mm snapon wrench and only use it 2 or 3 times in its lifetime. I looked on amazon and eBay. They range from $25-$50. Sunex to prono to gearwrench, More expensive Mac and even Williams. What wrench are you guys using to remove your rear tire? I’ve read a bunch of threads and several said buy off eBay and amazon. Are you using a $25 sunex wrench, $50 prono or gearwrench or $70 Mac or Williams wrench. Everything I also saw is 12 point which I am worried about stripping with a cheap wrench if that sounds right. Which wrench do you use to remove the rear tire axle nuts?

Any local tire shop will dismount and remount the tire for you and I bet it will only run about $20 they may be able to balance it as well

[Peteoz]

You say you will only use the new 36mm wrench 2 or 3 times, Wmoater, and you have a dealer who will do ALL the work for $125 and will install aftermarket car tyres. It sounds like you trust the dealers work. I know what I would be doing…….get the dealer to change the tyre 2 or 3 times, and let them handle any issues that arise like damaged “o” rings, alignment, tension, checking front sprocket etc etc etc…… but that’s just me.

Pete

[larryd]

I don't have a 36 mm socket in my 3/4" drive set but I use the 1 7/16" one and it works fine...just a little loose...larryd

[redrazor]

You say you will only use the new 36mm wrench 2 or 3 times, Wmoater, and you have a dealer who will do ALL the work for $125 and will install aftermarket car tyres. It sounds like you trust the dealers work. I know what I would be doing…….get the dealer to change the tyre 2 or 3 times, and let them handle any issues that arise like damaged “o” rings, alignment, tension, checking front sprocket etc etc etc…… but that’s just me.

Pete

Sounds like a really good deal to me. Great way to avoid a real 'PITA' job. I've done it once by myself; but would gladly pay $125 for someone else to do it.

[RICZ]

+ I agree with what Peteoz said. You are very fortunate to have a dealer shop you trust and will mount car tires for that price - I don't. So I do it myself. Well....read this: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...os-got-er-done

+ Not being a tool snob, I bought a very long combination 36mm wrench at my local used tool store for $7. It's probably made in Lower Slobovia, but it does the once-in-a-blue-moon job very well.

+ I bought Bajaron's 36mm shallow socket he sells for oil filter caps, but they work just fine on the rear axle too.

+ My 1/2" super long Harbor Freight cheater bar, alng with Bajaron's socket gets 'er done too.

+ I almost forgot....my newly acquired HF ICON Split Beam torque wrench - $117 with coupon - is a fantastic tool for that job. It comes with a test result certificte - it's more accurate than the Snap-On that costs 3X the price.

+ I buy quality tools that will get very frequent use and since the 36mm wrenches will collect dust most the time, I did the bang for the buck thing. But I "splurged" on the torque wrench, as it will see duty on other parts of the bike and elsewhere. I also help others with their Spyders.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If I was on the road I’d use channel locks or pipe wrench but since I’m in a garage and have tools I’d rather use a standard wrench. Just the old school dad taught me and I passed on to to my kids also. I agree it will work, but I prefer a wrench over channel locks. There is a place and time for those tools. Thanks

./... However He was looking for the " least expensive alternative " .... Channel lock pliers will hold the head of the bolt just fine, so will a pipe wrench. A rachet for the NUT is the better way to go .... and He has that ..... just sayin ..... Mike

[troop]

Is the price of $125 for removing the rear tire from the machine, dismounting-mounting the new tire and reinstalling the tire on the bike? If so, $125 is a steal...

[Little Blue]

Is the price of $125 for removing the rear tire from the machine, dismounting-mounting the new tire and reinstalling the tire on the bike? If so, $125 is a steal...

That is a good price for $125.00. Let us know if this is true.
My dealer charges $150.00.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

If you have a Northern Tool near you they sell a 36mm combo wrench for $25. If you have a coupon, you can save $5 each. They are excellent quality. My local Harbor Freight didn't have one that big but surprisingly my local Northern Tool had a vast selection of large sockets and wrenches.

I bought 2 of the wrenches and cut one of them in half which I use to adjust the belt with a dead blow hammer on the right side axle nut.

The one I didn't cut in half I use when torqueing the axle nut down: Wrench on left side, torque wrench and socket on the right side.

[Navydad]

If you have a Tractor Supply store nearby they will have an inexpensive 36mm wrench. I also have Snap On primarily, but the TS wrench works just fine for the Spyder.

[Wmoater]

Yes it is $125 for me to pull in to dealer on spyder, leave it there for the day, them take and remove entire rear wheel/hub/tire assembly from the spyder. Then remove the tire from hub/wheel. Install the new tire I have to supply. Balance and reinstall wheel/hub/tire. I drive away. The $125 is only labor plus $5 tire disposal and tax. I have to supply the $115 tire. I would have Netzley do it but my rear tire is just starting to show the remove lettering so in all honesty I have about 3-4 k left. My dealer was/used to $55 and now is $125. Netzley is still or was $60 last summer for rear/ $30 for fronts. I might be wrong compared to other dealers, I just figured that was a bit steep for an hour job. So are you saying yours is $150 labor plus the $120 for the tire so $260-270 total?

[Wmoater]

+ I agree with what Peteoz said. You are very fortunate to have a dealer shop you trust and will mount car tires for that price - I don't. So I do it myself. Well....read this: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...os-got-er-done

+ Not being a tool snob, I bought a very long combination 36mm wrench at my local used tool store for $7. It's probably made in Lower Slobovia, but it does the once-in-a-blue-moon job very well.

+ I bought Bajaron's 36mm shallow socket he sells for oil filter caps, but they work just fine on the rear axle too.

+ My 1/2" super long Harbor Freight cheater bar, alng with Bajaron's socket gets 'er done too.

+ I almost forgot....my newly acquired HF ICON Split Beam torque wrench - $117 with coupon - is a fantastic tool for that job. It comes with a test result certificte - it's more accurate than the Snap-On that costs 3X the price.

+ I buy quality tools that will get very frequent use and since the 36mm wrenches will collect dust most the time, I did the bang for the buck thing. But I "splurged" on the torque wrench, as it will see duty on other parts of the bike and elsewhere. I also help others with their Spyders.

I admit the new icon stuff is pretty good. I watched a video on YouTube where the guy destroyed one beside the snapon ratchet and it carried the same torque specs. I started with snapon in the 80s so once I invested then I just kept going. I have nothing against any tool. I used to use my tools 60 hours a week so the warranty and instant replacement was the priority. I agree that’s why I don’t want a snapon 36mm. It will just collect dust.

[pegasus1300]

Like you I already had a 36mm (from Mac) but not the wrench. I bought mine from Summit Racing, don't remember the brand but it was under $20. Works great.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The is the one I purchased for $16

https://www.amazon.com/Sporthfish-Wr...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I use it with a breaker bar and a torque wrench without any issues.

It also works great as a torque multiplier so you only need about 120 lb-ft of torque to achieve 166 lb-ft on the axle nut.

[spyder01]

I already had full set of Snap On sockets but getting a socket to fit between the muffler and the axle nut is tough so thats why I found a cheap pair of 6 point, closed end wrenches with 1 ft handles. I carry both in the bottom of my frunk along with an Allen wrench for the adjustment blocks. I can still fit my Can Am suitcase on top of the wrenches no problem and if for some reason I have to pull wheel or adjust belt while on trip Im ready. Now I just need some kind of portable jack and I'm all set.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I already had full set of Snap On sockets but getting a socket to fit between the muffler and the axle nut is tough so thats why I found a cheap pair of 6 point, closed end wrenches with 1 ft handles. I carry both in the bottom of my frunk along with an Allen wrench for the adjustment blocks. I can still fit my Can Am suitcase on top of the wrenches no problem and if for some reason I have to pull wheel or adjust belt while on trip Im ready. Now I just need some kind of portable jack and I'm all set.

I bought a few scissor jacks ( including an Alumin. one ) at a wrecking yard for cheap ( $ 5-6 ) they work great ..... Mike

[spyder01]

I bought a few scissor jacks ( including an Alumin. one ) at a wrecking yard for cheap ( $ 5-6 ) they work great ..... Mike

That would probably work but would take up too much space. I was thinking of the kind of airbag that you put inside of a coil spring on trucks, it will collapse down to nothing and weighs nothing, and I always carry a tiny compressor.