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Front pulley change - Wow, what a job!
Wow, what a job. Hardest part is probably removing the lower belt guard. Why didn't they use captive nuts!
Removing the pulley nut was ...difficult. I tried using long leverage bars with heat, no joy. Using a jack under the pry bar (if you can imagine it), No joy. Finally used the engine running and reverse gear method, simple !
Removing the pulley, very difficult. Finally using my cheap puller and plenty of heat, it came off.
I check my front pulley regularly and have never noticed rust. Once the pulley nut was removed, I couldn't believe the amount of bright red rust.
The pulley appears to be not too bad, could probably use it again Ok, but I had a new one so I fitted it.
I removed side panels and muffler to improve access. As an aside, I checked the BRP belt tensioner fitted 2 years ago, still Ok.
Now todays job is to put it all back together and adjust.
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Very Active Member
BazF....You must have an RT, because it wasn't that difficult a job on my F3L. For the benefit of those reading this, that have never removed the belt guard, the nuts on the back side are 10mm and not fixed in place by welding or whatever. I finessed a box wrench onto the nuts, using the Braille method, and removed the bolt with an impact driver. A socket wrench will do, but I'm lazy.
I bought a couple 6mm extended U-nuts at my Ace Hardware and slipped those on. Now, no more loose nut syndrome. Strangely, the front bolt - there are three - goes into a female fixed insert. I have no idea why BRP didn't do that with the other two.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Spyder is an F3T 2016. Same situation with the 10mm nuts and front screw has captive nut.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BazF
Spyder is an F3T 2016. Same situation with the 10mm nuts and front screw has captive nut.
It would have helped if you had mentioned the model in the first place.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Active Member
Glad to hear you did that yourself instead of having it break down on the road because of the worn front pulley like mine did at !8,700 miles in May 2021
John F.
Tallahassee, FL
2015 Spyder F3 SE6, black
BRP Driver/passenger Footboards
BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest
Blue Ridge Windshield
MRA X-Creen Tour, clear, clamp-on
H4 LED Headlights
F3 LED Fog Light Kit, LED Amber Halo Ring Kit, LED Tail Lights, F3 Rear run/brake/turn LEDs
Easy Brackets
Leatherworks, Inc. 120 Special Slight Angle Saddlebags
Custom Dynamics Front Mud Flap LED lights, Street Magic Front Fender Tips, Double Feature Lens
2-up rear shock
Idler pulley kit
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Haven't looked at my pully yet @ 2000 miles. Just wondering can you not use an impact to remove the bolt?
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Very Active Member
I used an air impact. Bolt came out slower because of lock tight but fairly easy. Take bolt out before removing belt.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by chokeslam
Haven't looked at my pully yet @ 2000 miles. Just wondering can you not use an impact to remove the bolt?
At 2K your pulley should still be in excellent condition. Anytime time is good for a first time to pull it, clean both splines and apply a veneer of Moly Paste - not Moly lube. I have my concerns that what BRP uses is not Moly Paste or similar.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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