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  1. #26
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Proper procedure is to loosen, then retorque. If you just check the torque without loosening, friction could cause you to have a false reading...and too low an actual torque value.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  2. #27
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
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    I will try to remember to take the camera with me when I go to pick my Spyder back up so I can get some pictures of my damaged parts as well.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


    Click here to see My Spyder Mods

  3. #28
    Registered Users krb1945's Avatar
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    Default RE-Torque every

    6000 miles. I'll check that email attachment. Gary, I guess I haven't completely awakened from the good stuff they gave me at the hospital. Ken krb1945
    Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
    USN DAV 100% 'er
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    1 2008 SM5 PE 548
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  4. #29
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    Default pulley bolt

    I have broken 2 BRP bolts and went to after market bolts / crossdrill the head and safty wire Jerry

  5. #30
    Registered Users Greg H.'s Avatar
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    Wow! This sounds very much like the symptoms my Spyder is experiencing right now.
    - Greg

    2013 RT-S Circuit Yellow Metallic

    Previously owned...

    2008 Spyder GS (Full Moon) 32,800 miles
    2011 Spyder RS-S (Magnesium/Black) 31,230 miles

  6. #31
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Better check the sprocket and shaft for both wear and play. Also make sure you are running the newest, reduced belt tension spec. The bolts shouldn't break that readily if they are properly torqued. Have you checked your torque wrench calibration lately?
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  7. #32
    Registered Users Greg H.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Better check the sprocket and shaft for both wear and play. Also make sure you are running the newest, reduced belt tension spec. The bolts shouldn't break that readily if they are properly torqued. Have you checked your torque wrench calibration lately?

    Scotty: I'll have my dealer check all of that when I take it in next week. Thanks for the head's up!
    - Greg

    2013 RT-S Circuit Yellow Metallic

    Previously owned...

    2008 Spyder GS (Full Moon) 32,800 miles
    2011 Spyder RS-S (Magnesium/Black) 31,230 miles

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjt View Post
    My clicking or clunking noise was definitely coming from the motor / transmission area. It only was noticeable when I was decelerating and the engine reached about 3000 RPMs. If I pulled in the clutch, the noise went away.
    Wow that was the same issue I had a few weeks ago, the dealer called me and they have to replace the "pulley"
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  9. #34
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    I got the same problem and i had an estimate from motorsports wpb seat down $2660 . Somebody know a good independant mechanical to fix it arround west palm beach ? They want to change the countrr shaft


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  10. #35
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    As I look at that worn out sprocket it doesn't appear that the teeth are very deep compared to the new one. I would think if the sprocket teeth are worn then it would be a good thing to replace the shaft as well as those teeth would also be worn?

    Happy TRAils/NSD
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  11. #36
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Hard to say...

    Not seeing the parts...the ones shown here were from an obsolete sproket later replaced with a double sided on and some with a counterweight. I recently replaced my sproket cause the bolt came loose but the shaft is a harder metal and suffers less damage. New sproket , bolt and washer and back on the road. There are other ways if the shaft is damaged but not at a dealer....

    20150630_104820.jpg 20150630_121204.jpg 20150630_121226.jpg I would start with a new sproket and bolts about $70 cheapcycleparts.com
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  12. #37
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Did anyone catch that this post is from September of 2009?



    Most of the people on the first page (excluding Lamont), have not been on SL for a few years.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 12-08-2016 at 10:15 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  13. #38
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    Yes old post but the topic is good for me and thank for your comments , i'll check tomorrow the sprocket and bolt


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  14. #39
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Not seeing the parts...the ones shown here were from an obsolete sproket later replaced with a double sided on and some with a counterweight. I recently replaced my sproket cause the bolt came loose but the shaft is a harder metal and suffers less damage. New sproket , bolt and washer and back on the road. There are other ways if the shaft is damaged but not at a dealer....

    20150630_104820.jpg 20150630_121204.jpg 20150630_121226.jpg I would start with a new sproket and bolts about $70 cheapcycleparts.com
    Not so cheap there. $109.95 just for sprocket. Of course lot cheaper than $2600.00
    David

  15. #40
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    He did not show me the damage ????


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  16. #41
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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  17. #42
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    Somebody know the way to unscrew the bolt


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  18. #43
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    I just had the bolt replaced about 1000 miles ago. I have 25,000 on a 2010 RS. They said the next time that it comes loose I need to replace the sprocket. I kind of wish they would have replaced the sprocket while they had it down but, I guess it didn't need it at that time.

  19. #44
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    Yes i came back at home with the spyder 2008 , 30k , today i tried to unscrew the bolt but electric impact did not get , need a stronger one or a strong bar


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  20. #45
    Very Active Member Big Arm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Did anyone catch that this post is from September of 2009?



    Most of the people on the first page (excluding Lamont), have not been on SL for a few years.
    I just enjoyed seeing the names of some old members that use to be on this site, and always had great information to share, but some left because of some negative comments made to them here. What a shame, and it still continues. (At least they left the information to be accessed for the newer members)

    ....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....

    ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
    the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....

    2008 GS.....PE # 2888

  21. #46
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    I second that! Last time I saw Scotty we poured over the plans for his new house. I sure do miss him!

    thehawk
    In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice ... in practice, however, that's just a theory.

  22. #47
    Registered Users m3d820's Avatar
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    Yes i move out the sproket and seem the shaft is ok , i'm very happy i did not give the ok to Broward moto. For $2700.


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