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Member
Switched 12V Power from Vacant Fog Light Plug
Like so many before me, I'm looking to add a separate fuse block to power some accessories. It will be switched power using a Bosch style 12V relay to energize the fuse block. I've tried to get the frunk accessory plug on the right side (as looking into the frunk from the front) out of it's hiding spot in that hole but it seems to still be tied to the frame up there. My option for that looks to be pulling the frunk. While I could certainly do that, I'm looking at alternatives.
One alternative which is staring me in the face is the empty fog light plug. Mine is not a limited so I don't have fog lights. Has anyone plugged or posi-tapped into the fog light power for use as a source of simply energizing the relay to power the remote fuse block? Since it's just a relay coil, I can't imagine any real interference being generated. It's a very low current draw and the fog lights power at that plug shouldn't (maybe) be tied to the canbuss. Can it really be that simple or am I missing something?
Thanks for any input.
Edit: I'm thinking the fog lights likely behave on a Spyder as they do on cars where they are switched based on dimmer switch. If that's the case then they would not give me constant 12V anyway. Sorry for the stoopid question but this is our first Spyder and it's only been driven once (to get it home) since we bought it. I don't know much about it yet, but learning. Asked Admins to delete.
Last edited by 100thdeuce; 02-07-2021 at 01:51 PM.
Reason: admins delete post please
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Very Active Member
Search for my previous posts about doing this. I used an "Add-A-Circuit" from the unused F8 position in the RFB. That will give you power only when the engine is running.
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The fog lights are not related to the dimmer position. There is, however, a separate switch for them, so your AUX fuse block could, indeed, be switched.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Very Active Member
As Steve W. says, there is a separate switch for that circuit. You would have to add that switch, or jumper the connections in the socket. It's under the blank on the right side of the switch cluster. Also, the circuit is not switched by the ignition but rather it's part of the load shedding relay load. That means the engine has to be running for the circuit to be live. Look for the wire that goes to the frunk light. It's somewhere in the area above and to the right (looking into the frunk) of the frunk. That is an ignition switched circuit. The wire is hot all the time up to the light.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Member
Originally Posted by Jetfixer
Search for my previous posts about doing this. I used an "Add-A-Circuit" from the unused F8 position in the RFB. That will give you power only when the engine is running.
This is perfect! I even have an 'Add-A-Circuit' or two laying around doing nothing.
Thanks to all for input. I just went from feeling stoopid, to getting schooled...and it feels good!
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