Can someone post how to on rear brake pads?

[Blinc]

Before I jump into taking the rear caliper off in order to remove the rear brake pads, can someone post a how to on an easy way to do this?
I looked at the manual and it shows to use a pulley??

I just want to clean the pads and put some de-squeeker stuff on them and maybe try that spring trick to get rid of the crazy noise I get when backing up and applying the brake.

Thanks!

[xpeschon]

Let me see if I remember the steps and if I forgot something I'm sure someone will charm in:

1) Remove the Rear Brake cable that the foot pedel operates
2) Remove the clips that are on the end of the Hex nuts ( I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember) toward the inside tire
3) Remove the two Hex Nuts ( Again-I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember)that hold the caliper in place.
4) Slide the caliper downward toward the floor.
5) Remove the pads from the caliper and there you go'
6) Be sure to hang the caliper up and tie it off on the frame somewhere so that its not resting on the brake lines.

Install in reverse

I did this about a month ago and it was a pretty simple fix, I also did my fronts as well, little bit more trickery but managable.. I used Silicone Part Number #091445 CRC from NAPA.. Orange in color and so far it worked good no brake noise at all...
Joe

[Blinc]

You Rock Joe,

Thanks!!

[jedd]

On mine a E-clip on the end of caliper bolt I used loctite and eliminate clip Did not un-hook cable or line just took 2 allen head bolts out and dropped it off pulled pads did stop squeal and re-installed >15 minutes

[Blinc]

Let me see if I remember the steps and if I forgot something I'm sure someone will charm in:

1) Remove the Rear Brake cable that the foot pedel operates
2) Remove the clips that are on the end of the Hex nuts ( I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember) toward the inside tire
3) Remove the two Hex Nuts ( Again-I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember)that hold the caliper in place.
4) Slide the caliper downward toward the floor.
5) Remove the pads from the caliper and there you go'
6) Be sure to hang the caliper up and tie it off on the frame somewhere so that its not resting on the brake lines.

Install in reverse



I did this about a month ago and it was a pretty simple fix, I also did my fronts as well, little bit more trickery but managable.. I used Silicone Part Number #091445 CRC from NAPA.. Orange in color and so far it worked good no brake noise at all...
Joe

Worked perfect. I don't hear that crazy noise in the rear any longer. I do hear squeeking in the front brakes now..doh!

I'll try the parking brake trick on it, if not, will tear apart the front and go for it again.

[xpeschon]

Front pads are a bit more tricky again, same concept however inside the pad area there is a spring the gets clipped into the caliper housing itself, if you plan on doing this its kind of simple but them darn clips confused me a bit but all and all it will work out..
Joe

[Putt-Putt]

On mine all I did was to:
1. take a scew driver between pad and the rotor and carefully compress the caliper piston. This gives you room to easly remove & replace pads.
2. take the 2 clips off the 2 caliper allen bolts
3. remove the 2 allen bolts
4. pads come out
5. put desqueal on

No need to do all the other stuff. By the way what spring trick to reduce squeal are you talking about?

[SpyderByter]

On mine all I did was to:
1. take a scew driver between pad and the rotor and carefully compress the caliper piston. This gives you room to easly remove & replace pads.
2. take the 2 clips off the 2 caliper allen bolts
3. remove the 2 allen bolts
4. pads come out
5. put desqueal on

No need to do all the other stuff. By the way what spring trick to reduce squeal are you talking about?

Must be talking about tat2r's trick:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...hlight=caliper

[SpyderByter]

I had the caliper lowered to replace the rear tire. Now before I put it back on I want to remove the pads, replace the pads if needed, apply the anti squeal, and install springs to keep the pads from rubbing on the rotors.

I cannot get the allen bolts off. I have a 3/8 allen wrench in the bolt and a large screwdriver slid in against the caliper body, squeezing the two together I tried, no luck, then srayed it with WD 40 and pointed a heat gun at the bolt till it got to hot to touch, tried again and only manged to bend the screw driver.

Any tips? They are not reverse threads. are they?

So I thought I should bolt it back in place to secure it and not chance breaking any lines. So I took two large screwdrivers and slid them between the back of the pad and the caliper piston to collapse it, after removing the caps off of the resevoir. I think it went back in a bit, but not enough. I cant get the pads to open enough to remount the caliper. How far back does that piston go. I can only see the beveled edge sticking out at this point.

Does it go back in flush?

[spyryder]

I had the caliper lowered to replace the rear tire. Now before I put it back on I want to remove the pads, replace the pads if needed, apply the anti squeal, and install springs to keep the pads from rubbing on the rotors.

I cannot get the allen bolts off. I have a 3/8 allen wrench in the bolt and a large screwdriver slid in against the caliper body, squeezing the two together I tried, no luck, then srayed it with WD 40 and pointed a heat gun at the bolt till it got to hot to touch, tried again and only manged to bend the screw driver.

Any tips? They are not reverse threads. are they?

So I thought I should bolt it back in place to secure it and not chance breaking any lines. So I took two large screwdrivers and slid them between the back of the pad and the caliper piston to collaspse it, after removing the caps off of the resevoir. I think it went back in a bit, but not enough. I cant get the pads to open enough to remount the caliper. How far back does that piston go. I can only see the beveled edge sticking out at this point.

Does it go back in flush?

The parking brake actuator shaft is screwed into the caliper piston.....You have to remove the parking brake lever and turn the actuator shaft to retract the piston.

[SpyderByter]

The parking brake actuator shaft is screwed into the caliper piston.....You have to remove the parking brake lever and turn the actuator shaft to retract the piston.

Thanks, removing the cable and actuator certainly made it easier to get the piston in as well as work the caliper back onto the disk.

I got the caliper bolted back on and was able to the break the allen bolts loose. Note to self (and others):

Break those bolts loose and remove the parking brake first before dropping the caliper off the disc. Much easier and safer than trying to do it while holding the caliper.

[NancysToy]

Thanks, removing the cable and actuator certainly made it easier to get the piston in as well as work the caliper back onto the disk.

I got the caliper bolted back on and was able to the break the allen bolts loose. Note to self (and others):

Break those bolts loose and remove the parking brake first before dropping the caliper off the disc. Much easier and safer than trying to do it while holding the caliper.

Note, the caliper screws are supposed to be replaced each time. The reason for that, and the difficulty breaking them loose, is that they have Scotch Grip on them. This material is a threadlocker similar to Loctite, that will dry, but contains tiny, encapsulated epoxy beads. When you torque the bolt, the beads break and the epoxy sets. That makes it take several times the torque value to break the bolt loose. 3M says that the bolts can be reused, because all the epoxy beads don't break, but the bolt may not be as hard to remove after the initial use. It is understandable why BRP recommends one time use, for safety. If you do decide to reuse these bolts, use the heavy-duty, high-heat type of threadlocker on them.

[SpyderByter]

Note, the caliper screws are supposed to be replaced each time. The reason for that, and the difficulty breaking them loose, is that they have Scotch Grip on them. This material is a threadlocker similar to Loctite, that will dry, but contains tiny, encapsulated epoxy beads. When you torque the bolt, the beads break and the epoxy sets. That makes it take several times the torque value to break the bolt loose. 3M says that the bolts can be reused, because all the epoxy beads don't break, but the bolt may not be as hard to remove after the initial use. It is understandable why BRP recommends one time use, for safety. If you do decide to reuse these bolts, use the heavy-duty, high-heat type of threadlocker on them.

The brakes pads were replace last time by the dealer. They do have what looks like blue Locktite on them. I think they are the originals, just by having looked closely at the heads before I started to work on them myself. They had quite a bit of wear where the allen wrench goes in.

If I get two new bolts from the dealer, will they have that Scotch grip on them already? I may replace them when I order new pads. I think this time I will use Locktite. I want to get this Spyder back on the road.

I read the back of a Lock tite 242 package and the blue and red have the same temp range (-65 to 300 ). Is that suitable? What is the torque for those bolts?

[NancysToy]

The brakes pads were replace last time by the dealer. They do have what looks like blue Locktite on them. I think they are the originals, just by having looked closely at the heads before I started to work on them myself. They had quite a bit of wear where the allen wrench goes in.

If I get two new bolts from the dealer, will they have that Scotch grip on them already? I may replace them when I order new pads. I think this time I will use Locktite. I want to get this Spyder back on the road.

I read the back of a Lock tite 242 package and the blue and red have the same temp range (-65 to 300 ). Is that suitable? What is the torque for those bolts?

The dry blue or yellow material on the factory screws is the Scotch Grip. Most BRP fasteners have this material, even the body screws. If I were using Loctite, and had a choice, I'd use the "permanent" Loctite 271 Red. This takes heat and hand tools to remove. If all you have is the standard Loctite 242 Blue, and you insist on reusing the bolts, use that. It is not as strong as either the Scotch Grip or 271, so be sure to clean and dry the holes and bolts thoroughly, and torque the bolts to spec...which you should do anyway.

[SpyderByter]

The dry blue or yellow material on the factory screws is the Scotch Grip. Most BRP fasteners have this material, even the body screws. If I were using Loctite, and had a choice, I'd use the "permanent" Loctite 271 Red. This takes heat and hand tools to remove. If all you have is the standard Loctite 242 Blue, and you insist on reusing the bolts, use that. It is not as strong as either the Scotch Grip or 271, so be sure to clean and dry the holes and bolts thoroughly, and torque the bolts to spec...which you should do anyway.

Thanks Scotty,

I will do that. I figured I would get a hold of the dealer and see if they had the bolts in stock so I was looking on the parts list and those bolts do come as a package with the pad kit, I am guessing they are not sold seperately. What I thought was blue Locktite on the bolts must be the Scotch Grip.

Mark

Update: So no one else gets as confused as I am, I was using the wrong names for the bolts. The caliper screws are what holds the caliper to the bracket, those are to be discarded and replaced. The bolts I was having difficulty with are the brake pad pins. Those should be loosened, but not removed, before you remove the caliper screws. Brake pad pins can be inspected and reused using Locktite #243 on the threads.

[ddtoit]

Let me see if I remember the steps and if I forgot something I'm sure someone will charm in:

1) Remove the Rear Brake cable that the foot pedel operates
2) Remove the clips that are on the end of the Hex nuts ( I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember) toward the inside tire
3) Remove the two Hex Nuts ( Again-I think there Hex Nuts I can't remember)that hold the caliper in place.
4) Slide the caliper downward toward the floor.
5) Remove the pads from the caliper and there you go'
6) Be sure to hang the caliper up and tie it off on the frame somewhere so that its not resting on the brake lines.

Install in reverse

I did this about a month ago and it was a pretty simple fix, I also did my fronts as well, little bit more trickery but managable.. I used Silicone Part Number #091445 CRC from NAPA.. Orange in color and so far it worked good no brake noise at all...
Joe

Hi my rts has a plastic cover wheel for park brake must this be removed??

[Big Arm]

If you will look at the previous post ... it was dated Feb of 2010...... I believe the RT's weren't released at that time...... it'd be better to start a new thread

[ddtoit]

Hi must park brake stuff be removed 1st

[jcthorne]

Hi must park brake stuff be removed 1st

On 2012 and older, Yes.