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Registered Users
Canisterectomy
After all the fire reports, some associated with the strong smell of gas.
And after coming back from a 100 mi. ride and parking the Spyder and then walking back into the garage an hour later to the very strong smell of gas. I was worried.
I concluded that there were only two sources of gas vapors.
Either a bad gas cap of a bad evap canister.
Since my gas cap was working well I figured the evap canister had to go.
The canister is easily removed by clipping the zip tie and lifting slightly and pulling it away from the bracket. Clip the Oetiker clamps that hold the hoses to the canister and remove canister.
Vent hose from the gas tank was then clamped to an inline fuel filter and 24" of 1/4" fuel line clamped to the other end and run down, forward and out the inboard splash pan hole behind the radiator. The fuel filter is to prevent the sucking up of dust or junk into the tank when the tank cools.
The purge line that leads into the purge solinoid was plugged with a bolt and clamped.
If you needed to undo this for an emissions inspection it could be done in about 10min as nothing permanent has been done that can't be undone.
A member of the rabble in good standing.
A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
NMN Risers, Mudflap Lights, Fender Tips, Center Brake Light w/ Triple Play, Throttlemeister, Madstad Robo-brackets, Madstad windshield, CHAD windshield, Canisterectomy, Exhaust wrap.
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SpyderLovers Founder
That eliminates one potential problem.
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Originally Posted by Latemarch
After all the fire reports, some associated with the strong smell of gas.
And after coming back from a 100 mi. ride and parking the Spyder and then walking back into the garage an hour later to the very strong smell of gas. I was worried.
I concluded that there were only two sources of gas vapors.
Either a bad gas cap of a bad evap canister.
Since my gas cap was working well I figured the evap canister had to go.
The canister is easily removed by clipping the zip tie and lifting slightly and pulling it away from the bracket. Clip the Oetiker clamps that hold the hoses to the canister and remove canister.
Vent hose from the gas tank was then clamped to an inline fuel filter and 24" of 1/4" fuel line clamped to the other end and run down, forward and out the inboard splash pan hole behind the radiator. The fuel filter is to prevent the sucking up of dust or junk into the tank when the tank cools.
The purge line that leads into the purge solinoid was plugged with a bolt and clamped.
If you needed to undo this for an emissions inspection it could be done in about 10min as nothing permanent has been done that can't be undone.
After another ride or two, how about a report as to the smell, still there or gone?
thanks
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by effgjamis
After another ride or two, how about a report as to the smell, still there or gone?
thanks
Unlike some Spyder owners, mine had never had the gas smell before. This was a first time for me.
The canister reeks and is sitting outside! The Spyder doesn't anymore.
Will be riding either later today or tomorrow......depends on how work goes.
A member of the rabble in good standing.
A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
NMN Risers, Mudflap Lights, Fender Tips, Center Brake Light w/ Triple Play, Throttlemeister, Madstad Robo-brackets, Madstad windshield, CHAD windshield, Canisterectomy, Exhaust wrap.
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Active Member
Hey Latemarch, I got the same nasty gas odor. I am trying to fix or replace my gas cap (it cannot be tightened enough, as it starts ratcheting without completely sealing the opening), and may be I'll also remove the canister.
Please let us know if your fumes problem has been solved, and how your Spyder behaves in terms of tuning and gas consumption without the can.
My new SE5 consumes way too much gas, and I suspect that it sloshes out and / or evaporates thru the gas cap. Will also modify tire pressure and see if it improves.
Saludos from an Argentinean in Venezuela
Originally Posted by Latemarch
The line from the engine arrives at a solinoid and from there plugs into the canister. I removed it from the canister and plugged it, leaving the solinoid where I found it. That's the bolt head you see there hanging down in the middle of the picture.
The solinoid is, I think, called a purge solinoid. It activates when you start the engine and allows the vacume from the throttle bodies (that's where the engine line goes to) to draw out accumulated gas fumes from the canister so that it's ready to suck up new fumes when you turn the engine off.
Originally Posted by Latemarch
Unlike some Spyder owners, mine had never had the gas smell before. This was a first time for me.
The canister reeks and is sitting outside! The Spyder doesn't anymore.
Will be riding either later today or tomorrow......depends on how work goes.
"Limitations only exist in the mind..."
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Pilo,
There was a gas cap recall in 2010 for caps that would not seal properly. My dealer here in the USA had mine replaced at no cost. I ride an 08 Spyder. Here is a link
https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2010/C...PYDER%252520RT
Good luck and happy rides!
2014 Can Am Spyder RT Limited with Can Am trailer
2008 GS , Standard Seal Floorboard extension with Spyder logo cut out and teflon spacers to raise it. Yellow/Black
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Registered Users
Doing a cannisterectomy is common on BMW's too. On my $$22K LT, if you overfill the tank, the gas goes into the cannister - then the start-up vacuum collapses the gas tank. Since the Spyder's tank is metal, I don't see that as a problem, but venting sure is.
We have those stupid filler collars here, and I'll bet a beer that they cause a squrit of gas into the cannister on every fill up.
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Registered Users
After my ride today. I noticed.....
Nothing.
No change in performance.
No error codes.
And best of all..........No smell.
A member of the rabble in good standing.
A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
NMN Risers, Mudflap Lights, Fender Tips, Center Brake Light w/ Triple Play, Throttlemeister, Madstad Robo-brackets, Madstad windshield, CHAD windshield, Canisterectomy, Exhaust wrap.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Latemarch
After all the fire reports, some associated with the strong smell of gas.
And after coming back from a 100 mi. ride and parking the Spyder and then walking back into the garage an hour later to the very strong smell of gas. I was worried.
I concluded that there were only two sources of gas vapors.
Either a bad gas cap of a bad evap canister.
Since my gas cap was working well I figured the evap canister had to go.
The canister is easily removed by clipping the zip tie and lifting slightly and pulling it away from the bracket. Clip the Oetiker clamps that hold the hoses to the canister and remove canister.
Vent hose from the gas tank was then clamped to an inline fuel filter and 24" of 1/4" fuel line clamped to the other end and run down, forward and out the inboard splash pan hole behind the radiator. The fuel filter is to prevent the sucking up of dust or junk into the tank when the tank cools.
The purge line that leads into the purge solinoid was plugged with a bolt and clamped.
If you needed to undo this for an emissions inspection it could be done in about 10min as nothing permanent has been done that can't be undone.
I'm liking this idea---- but I'm confused---- what did you do with the line that comes from the engine? Sounds like you plugged it? Isn't that a vent line also? Is that what you are calling a Purge Line--- if so--- what does it do? I thought it was an overflow??
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Firefly
I'm liking this idea---- but I'm confused---- what did you do with the line that comes from the engine? Sounds like you plugged it? Isn't that a vent line also? Is that what you are calling a Purge Line--- if so--- what does it do? I thought it was an overflow??
The line from the engine arrives at a solinoid and from there plugs into the canister. I removed it from the canister and plugged it, leaving the solinoid where I found it. That's the bolt head you see there hanging down in the middle of the picture.
The solinoid is, I think, called a purge solinoid. It activates when you start the engine and allows the vacume from the throttle bodies (that's where the engine line goes to) to draw out accumulated gas fumes from the canister so that it's ready to suck up new fumes when you turn the engine off.
A member of the rabble in good standing.
A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
NMN Risers, Mudflap Lights, Fender Tips, Center Brake Light w/ Triple Play, Throttlemeister, Madstad Robo-brackets, Madstad windshield, CHAD windshield, Canisterectomy, Exhaust wrap.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Latemarch
The line from the engine arrives at a solinoid and from there plugs into the canister. I removed it from the canister and plugged it, leaving the solinoid where I found it. That's the bolt head you see there hanging down in the middle of the picture.
The solinoid is, I think, called a purge solinoid. It activates when you start the engine and allows the vacume from the throttle bodies (that's where the engine line goes to) to draw out accumulated gas fumes from the canister so that it's ready to suck up new fumes when you turn the engine off.
Interesting. So the solenoid is activated during startup and shutdown? Wonder if the solenoid could have a problem --- sparking and igniting the fumes. I want to confirm the purpose of that plugged line--- anyone know more about these?
I'm liking your idea as the gas smell is annoying. Please post back your findings after you ride some more.
Nice job!
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Firefly
Nice job!
Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...
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No gas smells on my Spyder . . .
But, in the event that I ever do, is the issue that this canister is busted and leaking. What is causing the fumes to show up.
Sounds like an explosion hazard to me!
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Registered Users
I have a 2008 GS. No smell, never overfill. I have the skins off all the time. My only complaint is the blowby.. If I can't Diagnose, it's getting flatbedded to the dealer
I don't mess with gas or wheel bearings lol. I'll do everything else myself.
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Registered Users
After reading this thread the question that comes to mind is. Why hasn't someone that had this gas smell start changed the Purge Valve? To me it sounds like it may not be opening or closing properly.
2013 Pure Magnesium Spyder RS-SM5 Cal Sci medium clear windshield, R-35 hard sided saddlebags and fitments rack, 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST Limited Embroidered Stock Seat, Trunk opening spring, fire extinguisher, Passenger backrest and rack, Added side mirrors, Handlebar bag.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by donec
After reading this thread the question that comes to mind is. Why hasn't someone that had this gas smell start changed the Purge Valve? To me it sounds like it may not be opening or closing properly.
There have been many, many people with this issue, so I don't think there are that many bad purge valves out there. Once my dealer told me the purge valve was working like it should, I did the canisterectomy and routed the gas tank vent to the rear of the bike. No more issues after that.
Ryde Safe!
"There are two things you can never get back. A word after it is said and time after it is gone."
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Registered Users
I did
I changed the canister then a purge valve then another canister - under warranty and after BRP finally believed me that I don't fill the tank all the way. Did the same as the gent above, removed the whole mess. It still acts up some, nowhere near the problem it was before. It's still not fixed, but at least the vent doesn't empty right in front of the Catalytic converter any more!!
I still run my garage fan 24 hours to keep the ethanol stench to a minimum. BRP has been super good with a couple of other relatively minor problems, but totally unsatisfactory results and cure for the "smell/vapor/fuel dripping" from the pathetic fuel vent system.
Tuck
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Anyone in the Charlotte, NC area would be willing to help me do this? I don't know what I'm doing and would really appreciate some help........
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The best thing about the canister is the shape. It makes for a PERFECT door stop to keep the shop door propped open when the weather is nice!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Active Member
i am a retired auto/diesel mechanic, my question as for removing the Canister, unhook the fuel tank vent hose from the Canister, run through a fuel filter and another piece of fuel line through under the seat and out the rear for fuel fumes... But as for plugging off the line from the Canister through the Purge Valve, wouldn't that cause the Eng. to run Rich? .... because there would be No Air going through to the Eng. Intake... any advice??
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-13-2023 at 06:27 AM.
Reason: ' 's ;-)
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Originally Posted by sledge
i am a retired auto/diesel mechanic, my question as for removing the Canister, unhook the fuel tank vent hose from the Canister, run through a fuel filter and another piece of fuel line through under the seat and out the rear for fuel fumes... But as for plugging off the line from the Canister through the Purge Valve, wouldn't that cause the Eng. to run Rich? .... because there would be No Air going through to the Eng. Intake... any advice??
In theory, yes, blocking off the purge will richen things up. But remember there is the O2 sensor monitoring as well to lean it back out.
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Very Active Member
It keeps you from having a vacuum leak when that valve opens and there's nothing there to pull from. It does work well, I just did it to mine last year. One thing to remember is to make sure you route your hose higher than the filler neck as soon as possible, then dump it down and out. what your making is a high point vent in all aspects of the words!!
Last edited by Mikey; 05-13-2023 at 05:35 AM.
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