New Owner of 2016 F3 SE6: occasionally will not shift from neutral to first

[Munther]

Hi Everyone,
I bought a used 2016 F3 SE6 a few days ago and I love it! Only one problem; it occasionally refuses to go from neutral to first. It has left me stranded for 10-15 minutes a couple of times now when I would make a run to the store before it behaved. Once its in first, it shifts beautifully up and down the remainder of the ride. Thanks to this forum, I've learned several trouble shooting tips, but none have worked out so far. This is what I have tried so far that does NOT work:
-making sure may foot is on the brake through the start up and shift
-rocking the bike to get the gear to catch
-giving the computer plenty of time to boot up and boot down
-making sure it is in neutral when I turn it off
-it is not on a recall list for any type of transmission/gear defects
I contacted my local dealership (motorsports dealership) and it was clear from my discussion with the service rep that he had no idea what was going on.
Any thought?
Thank you,
Munther

[jwulf74]

Well, a couple of thoughts if the check engine light isn't showing... oil level might need to be checked and added if low. That would likely affect it more than described though. The left handlebar module might be starting to go bad. I have seen a few people have that happen here and I don't recall anyone saying that codes were thrown when those went bad. Otherwise, the gear position sensor might be wearing out. It's just a little plastic piece. Why they don't switch them to metal is beyond me... we had to replace those on both of our 2011 RT's.

[Munther]

No check engine light, just an "E" that flashes for a second on the gear indicator. I found that the oil was actually overfilled, so I siphoned off about 8 oz to get it a little below max. I'm starting to think that gear position sensor may be the culprit. Thanks for your input!

[RNBOB]

Hi Everyone,
I bought a used 2014 F3 SE6 a few days ago and I love it! Only one problem; it occasionally refuses to go from neutral to first. It has left me stranded for 10-15 minutes a couple of times now when I would make a run to the store before it behaved. Once its in first, it shifts beautifully up and down the remainder of the ride. Thanks to this forum, I've learned several trouble shooting tips, but none have worked out so far. This is what I have tried so far that does NOT work:
-making sure may foot is on the brake through the start up and shift
-rocking the bike to get the gear to catch
-giving the computer plenty of time to boot up and boot down
-making sure it is in neutral when I turn it off
-it is not on a recall list for any type of transmission/gear defects
I contacted my local dealership (motorsports dealership) and it was clear from my discussion with the service rep that he had no idea what was going on.
Any thought?
Thank you,
Munther

Munther, the first year for the F3 was 2015. I have 2016 F3 limited if won't go 1st try reverse then 1st.
Good luck

[Munther]

You are absolutely right! Sorry, it is a 2016, I'll see if I can correct the post. Unfortunately the reverse to first didn't work for me either. Thanks for your response.

[Rd_Runner]

How many miles on the bike? It might be time to service the transmission filter.

[Munther]

only 1700. Thanks!

[JayBros]

Was the "service rep" you spoke with just that, a service writer, or was he a technician? In either case you have to get the Spyder to demonstrate the problem at the shop which, if Murphy's Law is working, might not happen. However you can take the roadster to the dealership with your above list of written actions and if a mechanic can't diagnose the problem based on your facts and a test ride, ask the dealership to open a case with BRP and that puts the ball in BRP's court to get the problem solved. Did the Spyder have a B.E.S.T. extended warranty that may still be in force? If so, you might be out just $50 for the deductible. If not, the whole repair will be on your wallet.

[Munther]

I did schedule the appointment. Thanks for the advice on opening a case with BRP. Only things still under warrantee are exhaust and emissions.

[tntnj]

Munther I am having almost the same issue I cant get the bike out of reverse to first when i first start up. No Codes showing ! Mine is going in the shop on Sat for the shifting problem.

[PMK]

My best guess is the gear position sensor is either one of those that had issues in the engines of your vintage, or the sensor is failing.

If it were the handlebar paddle, it would affect all gear choices.

Should be an easy low cost repair, good shop may even accomplish it as a warranty item.

[Munther]

Munther I am having almost the same issue I cant get the bike out of reverse to first when i first start up. No Codes showing ! Mine is going in the shop on Sat for the shifting problem.

Hi, I hope it turns out to be something minor for you. Please let me know how it goes. My appointment is a week from Saturday. Thanks!

[Munther]

Thanks! That seems to be the consensus among people with experience with these spyders. Very helpful to know that going in to the dealership.

[JKMSPYDER]

One item that has not been mentioned is the reverse lockout switch. I have a ‘15 F3-S and have had to have this switch replaced twice. On both occasions I could not shift into 1st or reverse.

[Munther]

One item that has not been mentioned is the reverse lockout switch. I have a ‘15 F3-S and have had to have this switch replaced twice. On both occasions I could not shift into 1st or reverse.

Thanks! Reverse hasn’t been an issue for me, but good to know.
Munther

[Munther]

2020-06-20.jpg

Hello everyone, Im not tech savy, so I hope you are able to see the picture I attached. If not, it shows a small cable attached to a screw that communicates between the paddle shifter and the transmission. There is a metal plate below this that protects this and other mechanisms from road hazards and debri. I was able to identify that the screw that is supposed to move that cable freely when I shift was scraping on the metal plate below it. I pointed this out to Steve, the service manager at Motor City Power Sports in Bloomfield, MI. He quickly figured that the protective metal plate must have been hit from below when the previous owner rode over something, so he unscrewed the plate from below the trike, let it fall back down to its proper resting position, and then screwed it back in. It left about 2mm of space that allowed the cable to move freely. Problem solved! No more getting stuck in neutral. Steve didn't even charge me, thank you Steve! I convinced him to take a $20 to let me buy him lunch, and I was on my way. Thank you to everyone who tried to help me out with this. I hope this information helps someone.

[Rattlebars]

Hi Everyone,

-making sure it is in neutral when I turn it off
-it is not on a recall list for any type of transmission/gear defects
I contacted my local dealership (motorsports dealership) and it was clear from my discussion with the service rep that he had no idea what was going on.
Any thought?
Thank you,
Munther

That step is not necessary. It should self shift to "N" on its own once it's running. It may be part of the problem. Let it be when you shut it off. Just tossing out ideas. (oops. missed that last post!) Three threads on the same subject in the queue.

[trikermutha]

If its the cable to the reverse actuator they usually get bent from being loaded on trailer and get hit on occasions.

[carsong]

2020-06-20.jpg

Hello everyone, Im not tech savy, so I hope you are able to see the picture I attached. If not, it shows a small cable attached to a screw that communicates between the paddle shifter and the transmission. There is a metal plate below this that protects this and other mechanisms from road hazards and debri. I was able to identify that the screw that is supposed to move that cable freely when I shift was scraping on the metal plate below it. I pointed this out to Steve, the service manager at Motor City Power Sports in Bloomfield, MI. He quickly figured that the protective metal plate must have been hit from below when the previous owner rode over something, so he unscrewed the plate from below the trike, let it fall back down to its proper resting position, and then screwed it back in. It left about 2mm of space that allowed the cable to move freely. Problem solved! No more getting stuck in neutral. Steve didn't even charge me, thank you Steve! I convinced him to take a $20 to let me buy him lunch, and I was on my way. Thank you to everyone who tried to help me out with this. I hope this information helps someone.

I recently had problems with this when I bent my Reverse actuator support, taking the Spyder off my trailer. Bending it back enabled me to shift into reverse, but not first. Bending it, again, I was able to shift into first, but not reverse! Bending it to a different position, again, I was able to shift into all gears, and I thought all was well. Then I decided to reposition my handle bars, just a bit. Now it wouldn't shift into reverse, nor would it downshift, automatically. I had to reposition the handle bars to get home. It just shows how sensitive that thing is. I replaced the support plate ($25.99) and it made all the difference. Now it shifts into all gears, downshifts, and all smooth as butter. If your support plate may have been damaged, it is an easy, inexpensive fix.