Disabling air compressor

[MrBill5491]

Okay after an hour searching for this procedure, nothing concrete has come up so here it goes. The compressor on my 2015 RT is always cycling whether someone or ones are on board or off the Spyder. I want to disable the pump and strictly go manual on the pressure for the air bag. How do I go about this? Oh yeah, mine has the leveling system on it. I do love pics.

[Rookiespyder]

I just went through the same thing as you on my 2015 RTL I had to disconnect it. It is a bugger to get at I had to take all of the side panels off to see it and to get at it. The plug is on the back side of the compressor there is a black plastic nipple holding it on a plate if you can pull it off of there it makes it a little easier to unplug it. But you have to wiggle your hands up there to get at it. It would be easier if you had a hand of a 12 year old because not a lot of room. Now I am filling the bag manually under the seat. Sorry no pics I hope the helps.

[Mazo EMS2]

Hmmm, is there a fuse you can pull?

[fatboy]

maybe you have a leak so disabling might not be the answer bottle of soapy water on fitting and lines dont forget the bag

[Revalden]

I thought my compressor was cycling also. But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds. Check yours before tackling the compressor. Try a mechanics stethoscope to listen if you can, or tape a recorder in the area.

[cptjam]

The fuse also controls other stuff. Unplug.

[Grandpot]

The easiest way to disable the compressor is to pull the ACS relay. I'm not sure which one it is on your bike. Check the air bag system for a leak first.

[safecracker]

On the V-twins there is a relay you can remove. On 2014s and newer i do not know. If you do disable your compressor you will also have to unplug the power to the air release valve. There is alot of good info about this subject at this site. If your air bag is in good shape, all you need to do then is run a hose from shrader valve to air bag. Good luck.

[Freddy]

I thought my compressor was cycling also. But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds. Check yours before tackling the compressor. Try a mechanics stethoscope to listen if you can, or tape a recorder in the area.

Please tell how you found this and fixed it. Curious.

[Peter Aawen]

..... The compressor on my 2015 RT is always cycling whether someone or ones are on board or off the Spyder. I want to disable the pump and strictly go manual on the pressure for the air bag.....

I'm sorry MrBill, but if your compressor is cycling all the time, then it's almost certainly because you have a leak in the ACS system somewhere & disabling the compressor probably won't let you go manual anyway!!

That leak or leaks may be in the 'non-return valve'; more likely be in the air bag itself; or most likely be in one or more of the 'push-fit' air line fittings.... You'll need to fix or bypass the leak/s before you can get any sort of working ACS again, even if you do want to go strictly manual!

[Revalden]

Please tell how you found this and fixed it. Curious.

Well, I put a clip-on pressure gauge on the Schrader valve, it read 40psi, went back out next day, still 40psi. then, a few days later I had to start Spydie to check on something, I accidently moved the handlebars and heard the motor in the front end. I haven't had it fixed yet but I'm going to schedule it for diagnostic at our local dealer soon and hope that my Policy will cover it. From what I've gathered from my Service Manual it could bad sensor, or I'll hafta run more air pressure in my front car tires. Otherwise I'll just hafta wait until it goes belly-up and develop more arm strength.

[Freddy]

Thanks Rev, but it's this comment I was asking about: But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds.

[EdMat]

Thanks Rev, but it's this comment I was asking about: But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds.

I thought he did a pretty good job of explaining it.

[Revalden]

I thought he did a pretty good job of explaining it.

Thanks EdMat. I'm not sure about this but I think the electric motor part is the same as the e-brake motor and I've seen the e-brake assembly for sale around $175.00 for a used/salvage one. If worse comes to worse I will dig into the front end and see if the DPS motor will detach from the rest of the assembly. Maybe someone here could answer this question for me before I go that route.

[mcalva]

in rt 2011 Ltd. there was a software option and there are instructions too on BRP web page to mount the self-adjusting suspension in "no ltd" Spyders. Same option with opposite option.

Captura.JPG

the dealer did it for me.

But if the problem is an air leak you will not be able to maintain the pressure manually. To avoid engine, leaks and air tank problems I deactivated the software option and installed a gas damper with double adjustment. Although the conditions are not "optimal" at any time you can achieve a very good compromise adjustement and you'll know that these parts will not be the problem never again.

[SpyderAnn01]

We have disabled the compressor and then we used BUDS to change the programming so that it now thinks the Spyder is not equipped with the compressor.

Yes, you need tiny hands to disconnect it.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks EdMat. I'm not sure about this but I think the electric motor part is the same as the e-brake motor and I've seen the e-brake assembly for sale around $175.00 for a used/salvage one. If worse comes to worse I will dig into the front end and see if the DPS motor will detach from the rest of the assembly. Maybe someone here could answer this question for me before I go that route.

The DPS motor is not a motor in the traditional sense. It's also integral in the DPS unit along with the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. I don't believe anyone makes a remanufactured DPS which is a clue as to the practicality of repairing them.

[SpyderAnn01]

The DPS motor is not a motor in the traditional sense. It's also integral in the DPS unit along with the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. I don't believe anyone makes a remanufactured DPS which is a clue as to the practicality of repairing them.

And they are really expensive!

[Freddy]

Thanks for the clarification Rev.

[Revalden]

The DPS motor is not a motor in the traditional sense. It's also integral in the DPS unit along with the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. I don't believe anyone makes a remanufactured DPS which is a clue as to the practicality of repairing them.

Thanks IMS, now that I'm not half asleep, I remember that the motor for the windshield and the E-brake are the same, Not DPS motor.

[Freddy]

. Loose Nut Behind Handlebars Thanks for that second clarification Rev

[MrBill5491]

I'm sorry MrBill, but if your compressor is cycling all the time, then it's almost certainly because you have a leak in the ACS system somewhere & disabling the compressor probably won't let you go manual anyway!!

That leak or leaks may be in the 'non-return valve'; more likely be in the air bag itself; or most likely be in one or more of the 'push-fit' air line fittings.... You'll need to fix or bypass the leak/s before you can get any sort of working ACS again, even if you do want to go strictly manual!

Yup you can easily hear it hissing on and off, doesn't matter if you are on or off, moving or not. As long as the the engine is running you can hear it doing it's thing. Great just great, sounds like it's going to be a long ass afternoon tracking this down.

[MrBill5491]

I thought my compressor was cycling also. But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds. Check yours before tackling the compressor. Try a mechanics stethoscope to listen if you can, or tape a recorder in the area.

Dang thing will cycle whether you are moving or not and if you are on or not. As long as the engine runs, you can hear it and hear it a good distance.

[Grandpot]

MrBill, you have one of two problems. 1. A leak in the bag or system. 2. The compressor has failed. There is a set screw on the crank shaft that backs off. The compressor motor runs but, the piston will not pump air. I have replaced 3 compressors with this problem. One on my bike and two for friends. I have a video on YouTube showing how to install an after market compressor. Go to YouTube and search for Can Am Spyder Compressor. It's about 45 minutes long.

[BlueRibbon]

I need a little help here for my 2014 RT-S. The air damper does not hold air when filled manually and I'm not sure if there is a compressor or if it is running if present.
I'm going to be replacing the rear shock with an Elka from Lamonster..Do I still need to have the damper operational with the new shock? I saw a review on Lamonster by a guy that just left his air damper disabled after installing the new shock. I don't mind saving $200 -$300 to leave it as is, but don't want to be open to doing damage to that $600 + new shock.

Anyone out there have any experience with this?