No wonder your Hindle leaks

[Lamonster]

I just got my used Hindle today and I can't believe what I'm seeing here.

There is no reason to have a clamp on a end that can't be clamped. This is crazy, this is a slip joint not a clamping joint. If you're going to clamp something you need slots so the metal can give as you tighten the clamp. I see now why folks are having leak problems.

There's nothing wrong with a slip if it's done right, my Yoshi is a slip joint with no clamps and it doesn't leak. The problem I see with this being a slip joint is the material is too thin to hold form and yet it's still not going to clamp right even if it is thin with no slots.

So mine is a little banged up from shipping so I'm going to remove the ironing board looking heat shield and repaint the pipe. At that time I'll cut slots in the 90 so it can be clamped to the y-pipe.

[Capt John]

I had the same problem with my Hindle. I kept tightening it down trying to get rid of the exhaust leak and slip joint ended up out of round. I used Permatex muffler sealer and so far it has been holding. No leaks. I checked it again today.
Lamonster show us some pics, when you cut the slots and install it. I didn't even think of that. It's probably a mod I would like to do on the Hindle.

[Firefly]

I wondered about this too when I put mine on - but figured BRP must know what they are doing----

How many slits are you thinking? Slit them up to the brim?

[BLACK WIDOW]

I just got my used Hindle today and I can't believe what I'm seeing here.

There is no reason to have a clamp on a end that can't be clamped. This is crazy, this is a slip joint not a clamping joint. If you're going to clamp something you need slots so the metal can give as you tighten the clamp. I see now why folks are having leak problems.

There's nothing wrong with a slip if it's done right, my Yoshi is a slip joint with no clamps and it doesn't leak. The problem I see with this being a slip joint is the material is too thin to hold form and yet it's still not going to clamp right even if it is thin with no slots.

So mine is a little banged up from shipping so I'm going to remove the ironing board looking heat shield and repaint the pipe. At that time I'll cut slots in the 90 so it can be clamped to the y-pipe.
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

You may want to try it before you cut. I installed my Hindle, torqued everything to specs, and I have never had a leak. I check for leaks with a candle in a garage where there is no air movement . Never even had the slightest flicker. I have my wife rev it up to 2.5-3k while I check.

[Big Arm]

I check for leaks with a candle in a garage where there is no air movement .

REALLY ?????? How far away from the gas tank do you hold the candle ?

[ataDude]

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That's a fairly recent change, Lamont.

Version 1 of the Hindle used a slip joint gasket and was slotted. Version 2 (I have this one setting in the garage) used no gasket but was still slotted. That appears to be a Version 3.

I'm wondering if Hindle just messed up and forgot to slice them.

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[patches]

agree, I have the first, it is slotted.

[bone crusher]

You may want to try it before you cut. I installed my Hindle, torqued everything to specs, and I have never had a leak. I check for leaks with a candle in a garage where there is no air movement . Never even had the slightest flicker. I have my wife rev it up to 2.5-3k while I check.

Can you explain how you do that? I have a little backfiring on the bike and I'm not sure if it's from making the mixture too rich with the JB or if there is potentially a little problem with the hindle?

I'd assume that if the fit is not completely tight anymore (it was when I first installed it), that I could use some copper silicone (heat resistance to 700 degrees) and use that to seal it up.

If there is no leak, I'll be perfecting the settings for the JB anyway...

Thoughts anyone?

[BLACK WIDOW]

REALLY ?????? How far away from the gas tank do you hold the candle ?

FAR ENOUGH OBVIOUSLY.

[beka]

I just did a quick check and my Hindle is quite noticeably leaking. Since my dealer did the install and I'm heading there on Friday for the steering update anyway, I'll give them a shot at fixing it first before I mess with it. If they fail to fix it, I'll probably end up following your advice.

Thanks for all your tinkering Lamont. I just finished up the breather mod following your instructions and hopefully cleaned out the oil in my airbox for the last time.

[BLACK WIDOW]

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That's a fairly recent change, Lamont.

Version 1 of the Hindle used a slip joint gasket and was slotted. Version 2 (I have this one setting in the garage) used no gasket but was still slotted. That appears to be a Version 3.

I'm wondering if Hindle just messed up and forgot to slice them.

.

My Hindle has the same joint that Lamont showed in the picture. It does not leak. Maybe this was the improvement.

[max continuous]

My Hindle is the same style as Lamonts and it leaks. I've used ultra copper rtv and it works for a while. Instead of a temp rating they should put a rpm rating on the tube since I keep blowing it out.
I used the proper procedure as well...goop it...slip it on....let it cure.....then torque.
P.s. my pipe went out of round also. Also having a pipe I think spitting and barking is just what they do.
Max

[Capt John]

After reading these post. I sent an email to BRP. Questioning the change in style from the 1st version, 2nd version and 3rd version of the Hindle. I also questioned them about the problems with loose rivets. Maybe I will hear back from them in a couple weeks.

[bone crusher]

After reading these post. I sent an email to BRP. Questioning the change in style from the 1st version, 2nd version and 3rd version of the Hindle. I also questioned them about the problems with loose rivets. Maybe I will hear back from them in a couple weeks.

More likely you won't...but let us know either way...

I'm less and less impressed with BRP every day...

[BajaRon]

Incredible! Actually, 2 Incredibles!

The first Incredible is that this slip joint is designed to clamp with nowhere for the clamping force to go (except to oval out the pipe-Now you're got an Oval to Round connection -That's REALLY going to seal well!).

I would think there needs to be at least 3 slots to make that joint seal. How many slots do the slotted versions have?

The 2nd Incredible is that this is actually working on some bikes! Don't see how that could be. If this joint does start leaking, how does BRP expect a person to tighten it up?

[BLACK WIDOW]

Incredible! Actually, 2 Incredibles!

The first Incredible is that this slip joint is designed to clamp with nowhere for the clamping force to go (except to oval out the pipe-Now you're got an Oval to Round connection -That's REALLY going to seal well!).

I would think there needs to be at least 3 slots to make that joint seal. How many slots do the slotted versions have?

The 2nd Incredible is that this is actually working on some bikes! Don't see how that could be. If this joint does start leaking, how does BRP expect a person to tighten it up?

What is even more incredible is that the slotted ones seem to leak also, so apparently it doesn't matter if they are slotted or not.
I guess i'm just lucky, but mine has never leaked, and I had it loose when I installed the rigid bags. I just torqued it back up, checked it, and all was ok. I may have problems in the future, but I have had none to date.

[BLACK WIDOW]

Can you explain how you do that? I have a little backfiring on the bike and I'm not sure if it's from making the mixture too rich with the JB or if there is potentially a little problem with the hindle?

I'd assume that if the fit is not completely tight anymore (it was when I first installed it), that I could use some copper silicone (heat resistance to 700 degrees) and use that to seal it up.

If there is no leak, I'll be perfecting the settings for the JB anyway...

Thoughts anyone?

Bone Crusher; I think a little mild backfiring and spitting is normal for any performance pipe. Mine will do that after I have been running at 5-6K rpm's for a period of time and then back-off the throttle. It isn't a violent backfire but series or rumbles and small backfires; actually I like the way it sounds. I also have the JB and the set-up is the one Lamont was using that came from NMN. Every Motorcycle I have owned that had performance exhaust installed would do this to some degree. If mine was leaking I would use some type of high quality muffler sealer, a copper silicone type would be a good choice. IMHO!

[BLACK WIDOW]

Incredible! Actually, 2 Incredibles!

The first Incredible is that this slip joint is designed to clamp with nowhere for the clamping force to go (except to oval out the pipe-Now you're got an Oval to Round connection -That's REALLY going to seal well!).

I would think there needs to be at least 3 slots to make that joint seal. How many slots do the slotted versions have?

The 2nd Incredible is that this is actually working on some bikes! Don't see how that could be. If this joint does start leaking, how does BRP expect a person to tighten it up?

Maybe the clamp installed at the proper torque is intended to help keep the joint round and prevent it from going out of round.

[Blinc]

I also have what I guess is considered the newer version Hindle, and yes, same sputtering and backfiring issues. My dealer cut slots in my pipe with my approval a while back and then did the rtv stuff. The 20 year master mechanic at the dealership pretty much had the same response Lamont had when he saw how these Hindles come in. The "fix" worked for 1 whole day, now back to the normal of what is does. My newest Hindle issue is the loose rivets. I keep hearing this metal sounding whine and finally realized it was the heat shield vibrating on the Hindle due to loose rivets.
Not sure the fix for that yet, but after looking at the heat shiled setup on the stock muffler my wife has, I think I can just tap some threads in the ports where the rivets are now and just put some kind of screws in there like the stock has...anyone?

[bone crusher]

I also have what I guess is considered the newer version Hindle, and yes, same sputtering and backfiring issues. My dealer cut slots in my pipe with my approval a while back and then did the rtv stuff. The 20 year master mechanic at the dealership pretty much had the same response Lamont had when he saw how these Hindles come in. The "fix" worked for 1 whole day, now back to the normal of what is does. My newest Hindle issue is the loose rivets. I keep hearing this metal sounding whine and finally realized it was the heat shield vibrating on the Hindle due to loose rivets.
Not sure the fix for that yet, but after looking at the heat shiled setup on the stock muffler my wife has, I think I can just tap some threads in the ports where the rivets are now and just put some kind of screws in there like the stock has...anyone?

My rivets loose on shield but rest of hindle solid...if you have a safe and easy solution, please post pics so we can address as well...thanks...

[ataDude]

...I would think there needs to be at least 3 slots to make that joint seal. How many slots do the slotted versions have?...

Four.

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[Lamonster]

Maybe the clamp installed at the proper torque is intended to help keep the joint round and prevent it from going out of round.

Chances are it wouldn't leak without the clamp, you just got lucky that your slip joint is sealing.

This is a Yoshi slip joint. I've had no leaks with it for 1000's of miles of use.


If you are going to use a clamp you need at least 4 cuts in it like these.

[CRUCIFIED]

Just received the Brand new Hindle via Fed Ex. Just finished the install and as expected it leaks at the joint. (I expected that one_

Now for the 2nd problem. This new pipe, the CAN LEAKS AT THE SEAM (on the housing itself)just like the old one!!! The difference is there are NO LOOSE RIVETS.
IDK.....getting really frustrated


My only hope is that the breaking in process (15 minute idle & cool) some how "sets" the internal gaskets. If this is the case, that would explain some of the leak issues are/were related to a proper break in period.

Who knows........grrr... I will update later.

Here is a picture of where it leaks...anyone else have this? This makes two for me. You may want to check it out, I didnt notice it on my used one for a month but this time I was looking for it.

[CRUCIFIED]

Update: 15 min breaking in. 30 min. to cool. Leak on the housing is the same.

I just talked to the dealer that sold it to me....they were very cool about it. They said they will contact BRP on Wed. and get it figured out.

If this is "normal", other than a few loose rivets, my old pipe is functional and I have virtually no need for the new one, other than cosmetic issues and annoying rattles. geeeze IDK...

[ataDude]

Update: 15 min breaking in. 30 min. to cool. Leak on the housing is the same.

I just talked to the dealer that sold it to me....they were very cool about it. They said they will contact BRP on Wed. and get it figured out.

If this is "normal", other than a few loose rivets, my old pipe is functional and I have virtually no need for the new one, other than cosmetic issues and annoying rattles. geeeze IDK...

Are you sure it's not the drain hole used to get rid of condensation? It's about at that same spot you identified but underneath. You will, in fact, get a small leak there... intentionally.

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