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Dead Spyder
Went to start my 2015 RTL yesterday, had it on the battery tender/charger over the winter. Even though we had some nice days this past winter I was side lined with a Knee Injury (that's Another story). I started the Spyder about 3 weeks ago with no problem but yesterday I unplugged the Battery Tender it turned over once then died.
The dealer I go to is off Sunday and Mondays so I will not be able to get the battery checked or a replacement battery until Tuesday if that is the problem. Other than the battery what else could possibly be wrong?
1. How long is the battery good for?
2. Other than the dealer are there other places to get the batteries?
3. what is the best battery to get?
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Active Member
I've gone to Wal-Mart and Batteries+, they're cheaper. Wal-Mart people don't usually know what they have and what it fits, so you'd have to know what battery you're looking for. Batteries+ will be able to look it up by year/make/model. Both are usually cheaper than the dealer.
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What brand battery maintainer were you using?
Check both battery cable connections for tightness...
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Battery Tender Plus......Tender + charger
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The connections seem tight and I use the pig tail that comes out near the front left wheel well
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Bummer.....
Couple things.... if you have a jumper pack or jumper cables (if using your car leave the engine off) you can jump start it and see if it is only needing more voltage. Then if you have a voltage meter you can check the voltage and the charging rate to make sure all is well. If not and you get it started run by your local autopart and have it tested. Batteries last, in most cases depending on acc and use, 2 to 7 years. The best battery is the YUASA..in my opinion and experience, but there are others out there that will do the job...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
If you order online for a store pickup, you get a 10% discount, which makes this one $90. CCA (cold cranking amps) is 350, that's very strong. I like their terminals, strong and versatile. If I selected correctly, here's yours....
https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter.../cyla24hlbsxta
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
This factory fill battery is the consensus best one for Spyders by those on SL with a lot more experience than I: Yuasa YUAM7250H YTX24HL. You can get on Amazon.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Check out Shawn Smoak's video on batteries...he strongly recommends the BRP batteries(Absorbent Glass Mat). A cheaper lead acid battery might cause you problems.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
We did 2 of them yesterday. Batteries plus had Duracell in stock. Sealed AGM battery. We find that batteries last 2-3 years. Anytime after year 2, if it gives any trouble, replace it. Piece of mind is huge! Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Commander
Went to start my 2015 RTL yesterday, had it on the battery tender/charger over the winter. Even though we had some nice days this past winter I was side lined with a Knee Injury (that's Another story). I started the Spyder about 3 weeks ago with no problem but yesterday I unplugged the Battery Tender it turned over once then died.
The dealer I go to is off Sunday and Mondays so I will not be able to get the battery checked or a replacement battery until Tuesday if that is the problem. Other than the battery what else could possibly be wrong?
1. How long is the battery good for?
2. Other than the dealer are there other places to get the batteries?
3. what is the best battery to get?
Check the fuse on the lead that connects to the battery. Mine was plugged in all winter and the light was green but the battery was dead as a door nail. Some of the older Battery Tenders would give a false reading on the light. Finally I found the fuse was blown so I charged the battery with a regular charger and no more issues.
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