Belt Tensioner Pulley from Lamonster

[cmarsala]

Just got the F3/RT upgraded Pulley from Lamonster for the belt tensioner and I have to say, it's far superior than the BRP garbage. Haven't installed it yet. having one of those old man bad days where the mind functions OK, but the signals it sends to the body get lost somewhere in translation, so maybe tomorrow!
Ya'll keep Lamont in your Prayers, he needs to get better so he can continue to improve on BRP's short comings!

[jlc41]

cmarsala , Amen brother for prayers for Lamont.

[rocketman74]

Just got the F3/RT upgraded Pulley from Lamonster for the belt tensioner and I have to say, it's far superior than the BRP garbage. Haven't installed it yet. having one of those old man bad days where the mind functions OK, but the signals it sends to the body get lost somewhere in translation, so maybe tomorrow!
Ya'll keep Lamont in your Prayers, he needs to get better so he can continue to improve on BRP's short comings!

Considering buying this as well. Do I need both tensioner and the pulley wheel advertised on Lamonster's site? They show as separate items for the F3, so I wasn't sure if I needed to order both or not.

[cmarsala]

Considering buying this as well. Do I need both tensioner and the pulley wheel advertised on Lamonster's site? They show as separate items for the F3, so I wasn't sure if I needed to order both or not.

If you already have the BRP belt tensioner then you'll only need the pulley part # LG-1065 F3 / RT Roller Upgrade, if not, you'll need LG-1065-F3 F3 Belt Tensioner Good Luck

[rocketman74]

If you already have the BRP belt tensioner then you'll only need the pulley part # LG-1065 F3 / RT Roller Upgrade, if not, you'll need LG-1065-F3 F3 Belt Tensioner Good Luck

Stupid question - does BRP put the belt tensioner on by default when they build the bikes? Or is this an accessory add-on? I have a 2018 F3-S, if it matters.

[JP58]

Stupid question - does BRP put the belt tensioner on by default when they build the bikes? Or is this an accessory add-on? I have a 2018 F3-S, if it matters.

Do not come on at the factory. It's an accessory. The factory part has a cheap single bearing roller. Buy Lamonts. His roller is bigger and strong.

[rocketman74]

Do not come on at the factory. It's an accessory. The factory part has a cheap single bearing roller. Buy Lomonts. His roller is bigger and strong.

Thank you for the confirmation!

[Road-Kill]

I had/have the BRP idler.....here is my findings.
The BRP idler bearing is a made in Japan NGK very high quality roller and was in new condition at 25,000 miles.
The spring on the arm broke sometime after 20,000 miles.

Just got the F3/RT upgraded Pulley from Lamonster for the belt tensioner and I have to say, it's far superior than the BRP garbage. Haven't installed it yet. having one of those old man bad days where the mind functions OK, but the signals it sends to the body get lost somewhere in translation, so maybe tomorrow!
Ya'll keep Lamont in your Prayers, he needs to get better so he can continue to improve on BRP's short comings!

Why would you upgrade the high quality roller when its the spring arm that's breaking.
See the above response for more.

If you already have the BRP belt tensioner then you'll only need the pulley part # LG-1065 F3 / RT Roller Upgrade, if not, you'll need LG-1065-F3 F3 Belt Tensioner Good Luck

The BRP idler is not cheaply built.
See above responses for more.

Do not come on at the factory. It's an accessory. The factory part has a cheap single bearing roller. Buy Lomonts. His roller is bigger and strong.

The BRP idler purchased and installed by my dealer ran me $50.00.
Even Lamonster offers just the roller for BRPs spring tension arm.
BRP offers both idler and belt warranty for 12 months.
I don't see any written warranty's on any of BRPs competitors.
BTW.....if an idler (any brand) fails while on the road all you need to do is tie it up and off the belt.
This takes about 5 minutes of your precious time.
Don't fearmonger the unknowing with the BRP idlers will leave you stranded garbage.

[zuni]

Do you happen to have a source/PN for the replacement spring you used? I like your numbers but your experience is different from most, including me, for total miles before failure. It also seems that the bulk of failures were related to the roller and not the spring. Mine just died on the Road Warrior Foundation ride this year with 11,000 miles on it. For the $35 I initially paid for it I am not disappointed and just kept a few zip ties with me for piece of mind in case it failed on the road. I was going to make my own replacement but considering the cost of the parts and the time to put it together Lamont's is a better deal.

CJ JAX

I had/have the BRP idler.....here is my findings.
The BRP idler bearing is a made in Japan NGK very high quality roller and was in new condition at 25,000 miles.
The spring on the arm broke sometime after 20,000 miles.

Why would you upgrade the high quality roller when its the spring arm that's breaking.
See the above response for more.

The BRP idler is not cheaply built.
See above responses for more.


The BRP idler purchased and installed by my dealer ran me $50.00.
Even Lamonster offers just the roller for BRPs spring tension arm.
BRP offers both idler and belt warranty for 12 months.
I don't see any written warranty's on any of BRPs competitors.
BTW.....if an idler (any brand) fails while on the road all you need to do is tie it up and off the belt.
This takes about 5 minutes of your precious time.
Don't fearmonger the unknowing with the BRP idlers will leave you stranded garbage.

[DavidJS]

Based on some of the discussion on these boards, I ordered Doc’s tensioner. It is for my brand new 2018 F3-S, purchased last month. When I took off the body panels to install it, I was surprised to find that there was a BRP tensioner already there. It came from the factory already installed. I’m going to hang on to the RR tensioner for future use.

David

[007james]

Based on some of the discussion on these boards, I ordered Doc’s tensioner. It is for my brand new 2018 F3-S, purchased last month. When I took off the body panels to install it, I was surprised to find that there was a BRP tensioner already there. It came from the factory already installed. I’m going to hang on to the RR tensioner for future use.

David

For your referenice, ( future), I installed Doc’s Tensioner on my 2016 RT Limited at 1500 miles. I had my rear tire changed today at 25,500 miles, ( #3) ,and Doc’s Tensioner is still working OK. And the Roller spins like new. The blue coating is a little worn, but not much. Hope your BRP Tensioner holds up as long or more.

[rocketman74]

Based on some of the discussion on these boards, I ordered Doc’s tensioner. It is for my brand new 2018 F3-S, purchased last month. When I took off the body panels to install it, I was surprised to find that there was a BRP tensioner already there. It came from the factory already installed. I’m going to hang on to the RR tensioner for future use.

David

Interesting find! I also have a 2018 F3-S. I recently purchased the tension arm and roller from Lamonster. Haven't put them on yet but will in the next few weeks. Will keep the BRP tensioner for a spare in case the Lamonster one fails unexpectedly.

[Firefly]

I had/have the BRP idler.....here is my findings.
The BRP idler bearing is a made in Japan NGK very high quality roller and was in new condition at 25,000 miles.
The spring on the arm broke sometime after 20,000 miles.

Why would you upgrade the high quality roller when its the spring arm that's breaking.
See the above response for more.

The BRP idler is not cheaply built.
See above responses for more.


The BRP idler purchased and installed by my dealer ran me $50.00.
Even Lamonster offers just the roller for BRPs spring tension arm.
BRP offers both idler and belt warranty for 12 months.
I don't see any written warranty's on any of BRPs competitors.
BTW.....if an idler (any brand) fails while on the road all you need to do is tie it up and off the belt.
This takes about 5 minutes of your precious time.
Don't fearmonger the unknowing with the BRP idlers will leave you stranded garbage.

I personally know of dozens of BRP idler failure.. some which caused damaged belts and left people stranded waiting for parts.

The bearing might be decent, but the rest of the unit is pure CRAP that WILL eventually fail.
The idea that you can just 'tie it up' when it fails is ridiculous... sure you can.. but you shouldn't have to worry about such things.

There are currently three aftermarket options for these idlers.. Lamont's … Roadster Renovations and some other guy I don't know much about.

Roadster Renovations was the first one to come out with a better unit. Smooth Spyder has sold units even before that for the RS and RT models.

I wouldn't recommend anyone put that piece of crap BRP idler on... you are just asking for trouble.

[Road-Kill]

As far as the BRP idler being crap you might be right.
I have only my own experience with its long term use.
I don't "think" 20,000+ miles before its spring cracked is considered crap though.
When it did fail it damaged nothing.
This is why I decided to purchase another and thousands of miles later its still good.

I personally know of dozens of BRP idler failure.. some which caused damaged belts and left people stranded waiting for parts.

The bearing might be decent, but the rest of the unit is pure CRAP that WILL eventually fail.
The idea that you can just 'tie it up' when it fails is ridiculous... sure you can.. but you shouldn't have to worry about such things.

There are currently three aftermarket options for these idlers.. Lamont's … Roadster Renovations and some other guy I don't know much about.

Roadster Renovations was the first one to come out with a better unit. Smooth Spyder has sold units even before that for the RS and RT models.

I wouldn't recommend anyone put that piece of crap BRP idler on... you are just asking for trouble.

[Road-Kill]

I purchased a new complete BRP idler and not just the spring.
For the cost of purchase AND installation with the warranty also covering the belt its worth it.....in my opinion.

Do you happen to have a source/PN for the replacement spring you used? I like your numbers but your experience is different from most, including me, for total miles before failure. It also seems that the bulk of failures were related to the roller and not the spring. Mine just died on the Road Warrior Foundation ride this year with 11,000 miles on it. For the $35 I initially paid for it I am not disappointed and just kept a few zip ties with me for piece of mind in case it failed on the road. I was going to make my own replacement but considering the cost of the parts and the time to put it together Lamont's is a better deal.

CJ JAX

[Cruzr Joe]

For the cost of the BRP unit you can just replace it every oil change and be happy.

Or you can replace the bearing with Lamonsters Part and be happy

Or you can buy a higher priced item and be happy

Or you can be a sniveling unhappy person and worry about it for the rest of your life


Your Choice, i went with option two.

Cruzr Joe

[MrBones]

I don't understand the need for the tensioner to begin with. Had 30,000 on my RS have 25,000 on my 2015 F3 with no problems at all. But do have a good mechanic changing my rear tire so guess he knows how to tension it.

[Road-Kill]

If it aint broke don't fix it.
If you don't think you need an idler don't install one.
A "good mechanic" has nothing to do with the vibration issue, its because of the really long belt that generates the "harmonics".
The vibration issue is experienced by everyone but most don't understand it or could care less.

I don't understand the need for the tensioner to begin with. Had 30,000 on my RS have 25,000 on my 2015 F3 with no problems at all. But do have a good mechanic changing my rear tire so guess he knows how to tension it.

[MrBones]

Roadkill thanks for the input. Its not that I don't understand it I just don't feel anything vibrating. Guess I am lucky to have been riding since 1945 when most bikes were kind of tough. And at 85 not too sensitive to it.