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Member
Noisy shifting 2017 RT-S
I have a new 2017 RT-S. Only couple hundred miles on it so far. My shifting seems pretty loud. I have read this is normal sound for a "solid well built transmission" but I believe this was from Can Am. Is there a break in period where it will drop after a while, or is this really normal for the Spyders? Thanks in advance for info.
Robert
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Airborne Engineer
I have a new 2017 RT-S. Only couple hundred miles on it so far. My shifting seems pretty loud. I have read this is normal sound for a "solid well built transmission" but I believe this was from Can Am. Is there a break in period where it will drop after a while, or is this really normal for the Spyders? Thanks in advance for info.
Robert
Not saying it is normal or abnormal, simply new. On our 14 RTS it had kind of a notchy, clunky not even smooth shifting gearbox during break in miles. Upon reaching the required break in mileage I swapped from BRP oil to Mobil 1 10-40 Sportbike oil and have had smooth wonderful shifting ever since. New oil filter and oil each 5000 miles.
I did do an oil and filter change using BRP oil about half way through the break in miles as the shifting to me was that bad. This did help, but was short lived until switching to Mobil 1.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
"shifting".... is a very vague description.
That being said, the shift from neutral into either FIRST or REVERSE
are surprisingly loud, almost Harley-esque.
Gear changes shouldn't be noisy. Neither of mine shifted gears loudly
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
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Very Active Member
Compared to what ?
Shifting seems loud compared to what - a previous Spyder you have owned / ridden or what you think it should be?
Has anyone else assessed the loudness - another Spyder rider ?
When the Spyder was new to me a few things seemed different from my Yamaha - but now that I am used to it the Spyder is the new normal.
Love my Spyders
2016 F3L Steel Black purchased 7/16/2016 Sold 3/11/2023 (22,500 mi)
2014 RTS Circuit Yellow purchased 3/2/2018
2020 RTL Petrol Blue purchased 1/27/2023
Girls on Spyders #3195
No more 2 wheels
2020 RTL , Lamonster floor board riser Petrol Blue
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Member
Shifting vague
Originally Posted by 4 MARIE
"shifting".... is a very vague description.
That being said, the shift from neutral into either FIRST or REVERSE
are surprisingly loud, almost Harley-esque.
Gear changes shouldn't be noisy. Neither of mine shifted gears loudly
I put it that way because I was referring to all shifting. Just seemed clunky. Especially if your accelerating quickly where you are not shifting at lower RPM's. Like merging onto a highway. Pretty similar to how it sounds after warmed up when shifting into the 1st or reverse. Might be just that I am not used to it coming for the 2 wheel world.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Airborne Engineer
I put it that way because I was referring to all shifting. Just seemed clunky. Especially if your accelerating quickly where you are not shifting at lower RPM's. Like merging onto a highway. Pretty similar to how it sounds after warmed up when shifting into the 1st or reverse. Might be just that I am not used to it coming for the 2 wheel world.
A consideration, and this is important and does cause some issues for some riders coming to the Spyder SE gearbox. Do not close or even slightly back off the throttle. I know folks say they do not but when they focus on a steady or slightly increasing throttle, the gearbox does fine and there is no drop / lag in the feel of the bike.
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Member
No let off
Originally Posted by PMK
A consideration, and this is important and does cause some issues for some riders coming to the Spyder SE gearbox. Do not close or even slightly back off the throttle. I know folks say they do not but when they focus on a steady or slightly increasing throttle, the gearbox does fine and there is no drop / lag in the feel of the bike.
I admit I still do this sometimes, old 2 wheel habit. But I am trying to be conscientious about it. I don't know if that is what is causing my shifting noise or not. It doesn't cause any issues, there are no delays in engaging of the next gear or anything like that. Just seems noisy or clunky.
Thanks for the replies. I will she what happens when I do the oil change and see if it helps.
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Active Member
My 17 rtl is very clunky when cold from N to R or 1st,better when warm.When warm it can be clunky on upshifts,worse when you are pushing it a little.If you granny shift it at about 3000 rpm its not bad at all.Also when slowing down it can be clunky and kinda weird.Ive gotten use to it but I try to work the throttle so it isn't quite so bad.Im due for my 1st oil change so Im hoping a new type of oil may help.
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Airborne Engineer
I put it that way because I was referring to all shifting. Just seemed clunky. Especially if your accelerating quickly where you are not shifting at lower RPM's. Like merging onto a highway. Pretty similar to how it sounds after warmed up when shifting into the 1st or reverse. Might be just that I am not used to it coming for the 2 wheel world.
My observation is the harder the acceleration, the clunkier the shift. Gentle acceleration and quick tap on the paddle and it can be smooth as silk. Full throttle and quick shifts from gear to gear and it "...sounds like something wants to break!"
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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I’ll bet this proceedure is in the service manual but I could be wrong.
Go to the dealer and have them do the CIP (Clutch Initialization Proceedure) or maybe someone here (Lamonster maybe) knows the button push proceedure and you can do it at home. I do know this proceedure must be done on a hot clutch, transmission unit.
We Honda Goldwing, African safari and CBX with DCT riders all have learned how to pro form this proceedure.
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