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    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    Default RT-622 Trailer Hub, Bearings, Races

    I got a 2011 RT-622 from 2nd owner with supposedly low mileage and installed ground kit, new harness and PM on the wheels. I read just about every post on here (and all over youtube) about bearings and races. One side looks fine but the second side looks like some water got in and is at least questionable to me. I'd like the opinion of those really knowledgeable on this subject...

    The race while discolored is completely smooth to the touch all around - there are no obvious scrapes or gouges. The bearing is discolored on the casing, the rollers seem to be in good shape (no flat spots or anything) except for slight discoloration on some rollers. I know the general rule seems to be any discoloration or anything = replace and replace bearings and races together.

    Unlike a larger boat trailer hub where you can use a screwdriver/chisel to get on the lip and hammer out, there doesn't seem to be a way to grab these races to pull out. Maybe a specialized race puller tool but still seems like nowhere to grab it.

    I took it to a trailer shop and he said he can't take them out, and even if he could it would cost $20-$30 and he sells/swaps hubs for $35 (I guess on boats they do that often - just swap out refurb hubs). I had him take a look at it and he actually thought they looked fine and said he would have no concern regreasing and using as is. He said unless it was gouged and looked torn up he would not replace race/hub and bearing seemed to spin fine.

    Maybe I am overanalyzing but I don't want to be the guy on the side of the road with a torn up wheel from a frozen bearing. Of course I want to do the most cost effective/easiest thing but SAFELY.

    I see my choices as:

    1. Bite the bullet and just replace hub assembly to get new hub/races/bearings and not worry about it.
    2. Just replace the bearing (most recommend replace both bearing and race but trailer shop said you can replace just bearing)
    3. Continue to look for a way to replace the race in existing hub and get new bearing (almost sounds like as costly as 1 at least in time/effort)
    4. Repack it all, grease well and just re-install and quit worrying since there is no obvious major damage and this is only a 400lb max vehicle not getting dunked in water all the time.

    And I also intend to install bearing buddies when re-assembled...

    I'm leaning toward either 4 or 1 but obviously don't want to get a new hub if I don't really need to.

    Those that really know this stuff please reply with your choice... Thanks...

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    Last edited by SpyderSteveFL; 09-12-2018 at 07:07 AM.
    NEW/CURRENT (Wife's Bike, I ride Goldwing/Africa Twin)
    2023 RT Limited Petrol Blue Metallic
    Working on the upgrades... so far... Show Chrome Isolator Fuse Block, Tackform Adventure Wireless charger phone mount

    OLD/TRADED
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
    Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

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