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  1. #1
    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    Default RT-622 Trailer Hub, Bearings, Races

    I got a 2011 RT-622 from 2nd owner with supposedly low mileage and installed ground kit, new harness and PM on the wheels. I read just about every post on here (and all over youtube) about bearings and races. One side looks fine but the second side looks like some water got in and is at least questionable to me. I'd like the opinion of those really knowledgeable on this subject...

    The race while discolored is completely smooth to the touch all around - there are no obvious scrapes or gouges. The bearing is discolored on the casing, the rollers seem to be in good shape (no flat spots or anything) except for slight discoloration on some rollers. I know the general rule seems to be any discoloration or anything = replace and replace bearings and races together.

    Unlike a larger boat trailer hub where you can use a screwdriver/chisel to get on the lip and hammer out, there doesn't seem to be a way to grab these races to pull out. Maybe a specialized race puller tool but still seems like nowhere to grab it.

    I took it to a trailer shop and he said he can't take them out, and even if he could it would cost $20-$30 and he sells/swaps hubs for $35 (I guess on boats they do that often - just swap out refurb hubs). I had him take a look at it and he actually thought they looked fine and said he would have no concern regreasing and using as is. He said unless it was gouged and looked torn up he would not replace race/hub and bearing seemed to spin fine.

    Maybe I am overanalyzing but I don't want to be the guy on the side of the road with a torn up wheel from a frozen bearing. Of course I want to do the most cost effective/easiest thing but SAFELY.

    I see my choices as:

    1. Bite the bullet and just replace hub assembly to get new hub/races/bearings and not worry about it.
    2. Just replace the bearing (most recommend replace both bearing and race but trailer shop said you can replace just bearing)
    3. Continue to look for a way to replace the race in existing hub and get new bearing (almost sounds like as costly as 1 at least in time/effort)
    4. Repack it all, grease well and just re-install and quit worrying since there is no obvious major damage and this is only a 400lb max vehicle not getting dunked in water all the time.

    And I also intend to install bearing buddies when re-assembled...

    I'm leaning toward either 4 or 1 but obviously don't want to get a new hub if I don't really need to.

    Those that really know this stuff please reply with your choice... Thanks...

    20180909_183922.jpg20180911_165008.jpg20180911_184426.jpg20180911_184423.jpg20180911_184412.jpg
    Last edited by SpyderSteveFL; 09-12-2018 at 07:07 AM.
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
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    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Get 4 new bearing cups, both hubs, stuff it all in a box and leave it at my front door. Give me a couple days and you can come get it with cups replaced.

    Not doing it while you wait or watch. Simply busy and it gets done at some point.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Brentc's Avatar
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    Default You canít beat this offer.

    Man, what an offer!

    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Get 4 new bearing cups, both hubs, stuff it all in a box and leave it at my front door. Give me a couple days and you can come get it with cups replaced.

    Not doing it while you wait or watch. Simply busy and it gets done at some point.
    2014 RT-S Pearl White
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  4. #4
    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    Yes, thank you so much for that amazingly generous offer. I will be in touch...

    Funny thing is there seem to be 2 brands of bearings in it - both L44649, on each wheel the outboard one has a black finish on the perimeter and says I think HCH while the inboard ones there is no black (more like a cast metal rough finish like in picture) and no other markings other than #. Just thought that was interesting.
    Last edited by SpyderSteveFL; 09-14-2018 at 07:29 AM.
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
    Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

  5. #5
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Get a flat chisel and a good angle and pound out that race. I did it on my hubs.

    How are the axles? I found mine at the seal area were starting to rust which would cause seal failures.

    Heres a link for new bearings etc.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/K1-150-2-00...l/111709525286

    Those hubs are not standard (BRP) unless he is able to get them??

    I Ended up getting hubs from BRP but never used the one I bought.

    Then I put bearing Buddys on mine and took a trip. I still havnet checked to see how well the grease got into the rear bearing yet.
    Last edited by trikermutha; 09-14-2018 at 08:19 AM.

  6. #6
    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    My first plan was to pound them out but I could not see any way to do so. The race seems like it is almost recessed in from the center of the hub, I could not seem to get on the edge of it through the hub even with a very thin edge. Seemed like maybe from the same side with a hammer puller but wasn't going to buy one of those to try. The hubs should be original BRP. I ordered the Timken SET4 kits (Bearing and race) from Amazon.

    Axle was discolored in one spot and I cleaned it up with SS wire brush per PMKs suggestion.
    Last edited by SpyderSteveFL; 09-14-2018 at 02:16 PM.
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
    Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

  7. #7
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    The bearing races come out. There is a very small edge that can be pounded out with a chisel. I have done it already. Just keep working your way around.

    I put my hub on top of wood and a solid table then pounded the race out with a flat chisel. It does take a bit of effort and Patience but they do come out.

    Or find another trailer place that knows how to get bearing races out. Or your BRP dealer? or take up PMK's offer

    I highlighted the areas that need to be pounded out work your way around .

    Hub_LI.jpg
    Last edited by trikermutha; 09-14-2018 at 02:30 PM.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    The bearing races come out. There is a very small edge that can be pounded out with a chisel. I have done it already. Just keep working your way around.

    I put my hub on top of wood and a solid table then pounded the race out with a flat chisel. It does take a bit of effort and Patience but they do come out.

    Or find another trailer place that knows how to get bearing races out. Or your BRP dealer? or take up PMK's offer

    I highlighted the areas that need to be pounded out work your way around .

    Hub_LI.jpg

    I have not yet seen the hubs, guess Steve is waiting on bearing kits. The notion from the trailer shop that the trailer mechanic was not seeing a way to remove the bearing cup, I kind of rolled with that. Agree, they will come out, just need some time with them. Hopefully I will not need to run a weld bead on the race to shrink the race, kind of a last resort.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    I have not yet seen the hubs, guess Steve is waiting on bearing kits. The notion from the trailer shop that the trailer mechanic was not seeing a way to remove the bearing cup, I kind of rolled with that. Agree, they will come out, just need some time with them. Hopefully I will not need to run a weld bead on the race to shrink the race, kind of a last resort.

    I thought the same thing when I was taking the cups out. But was able to do this at home with basic tools.
    Just have to get the tool in the right position and hit with hammer and keep turning the hub as your doing it..

    Well good luck. Hope it works out!

  10. #10
    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    I must have watched at least a dozen videos on this and most of them is as trikermutha says and you can get a chisel on the edge as indicated (most of these videos are boat trailer hubs including ones with brakes). The problem I had, and granted I am not a mechanic, is I could not get a tool on that edge let alone enough to pound on it. The center part of the hub between the races/cups seem to be the same diameter and there is a tiny depression there but not enough for me to get a tool in from the opposite side to push/hammer it out. Maybe I didn't try hard enough because I didn't want to slip and ruin the race in the case I wanted to just re-use it. I saw a video with a race puller tool that had like a 3 prong claw that you inserted from the same side as race and the 3 claw points were thin and may fit in that small recess, then it had an integrated pull hammer to bang it out. I did not want to invest in that special tool in hopes it may work. And then I did see the 'tricks' of a weld bead and effort to get them out.

    To be clear the trailer shop I went to didn't necessarily say they couldn't, just they don't. It was like 'even if I could it would cost you more than the $30 replacement hubs I sell'. It certainly didn't seem like he had the tools or even expertise to do it. Maybe a better trailer shop could but this guy recommended re-using as is or buying a new hub.

    I really hate asking for help and not being able to do something as usually I'm the one trying to help others. I know my limitations. I am very appreciative to have friends willing to help since there doesn't seem to be an easy to find business to do this and buying new hubs is the easy albeit expensive fix.

    Paul - I have the bearings and will be in touch later, thank you!
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
    Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

  11. #11
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    I have even use a medium sided pry bar with the bend on the end and the handle on the other to get the race out.

    Once you get them started to move they come right out.

    A good solid surface on blocks of wood and sharp hits work your way around the races will come out.

    In this case even special tools may not work..

    good Luck!

  12. #12
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    Steve the tool that you use to strike the shoulder is very important. Does not have to be sharp like a point but a more than 90 degree edge. It has to be a sharp edge, not rounded at all. And most important of all it must be HARD steel. Otherwise the hardened steel edge that you are hitting will round off your tool. I use a round 3/8 inch rod of hardened steel. Kinda like chisel stock. Put it to the grinder and just give yourself an edge. That surface probably only needs to be 70 degrees to the edge of the rod. Cool in water soon after grinding so you don't anneal the steel. Any rod from anything will work as long as it is hard (high carbon). I hope this helps. Good luck.

    I just re-read your last post. This tool would be less likely to slip off the edge of the shoulder because of its slight angle. A diagram would be most helpful. Sorry.
    Last edited by daz; 09-15-2018 at 08:14 PM.
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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  14. #14
    Active Member SpyderSteveFL's Avatar
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    Yea, I think that curve is the key. Wish I would have known about that sooner, I would have tried something like that first. Paul has them in his very capable hands and I'm sure he has the right tools. Thanks!
    2015 RT Limited Intense Red Pearl
    Farkles: Ultimate Tallboy seat, FOBO, JT Dash Mount, Lamonster Spyder Cuff, Kradellock, TricLED lighting - fenders, A-Arms, saddlebags, run/brake, Custom Dynamics high brake light, brake modulator, Drink2Go passenger, MUTH turn signal mirrors, Bajaron sway bar, Kuryakyn ISO grips, SpyderTV front grilles & rear trunk organizer, homemade trunk light
    Pending: Elka shocks, Yokohama S Drive rear tire, EVO 595 front tires, Centramatic balancers, Neutrino black box

  15. #15
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Well hope it all works out. You should always replace the races when changing the bearinsg anyway.

    Good Luck!

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