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  1. #101
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default Logic

    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    More fractured logic.

    So far, YOU are the only one I've seen on here that deserves the title.
    Why would I use if for someone else ??
    Like I said ...NO GUTS ......Mike

  2. #102
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I guess you agree with " fjray " when the truth doesn't fit the discussion ( in your mind ) ...just make things up. I NEVER CHALLENGED YOU.....and I've suggested to you a number of times to contact the Administrator about your almost Anal fixation with the use of " emoji's " ....Why haven't you done this ???? .....or did the Administrator think you were nuts ...... Mike
    LOL. I did, AND the big dog DID edit you.

    Oh... you don't remember all of your COLORED CAPITALIZED text yelling either? I think someone may have slapped your hand about that.

    But, you did challenge me! Went on about your credentials and how you won that super-cool drag race. YOU even said we would go for "pink slips." I literally spit out my drink when I saw "pink slips." Hadn't heard that term since the demise of "Joanie Loves Chachi."
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  3. #103
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Like I said ...NO GUTS ......Mike

    Just leaving this here.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  4. #104
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Default

    Earlier this summer...


    BK.jpg
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  5. #105
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default the facts just the facts please

    Quote Originally Posted by tehrlich View Post
    Earlier this summer...


    BK.jpg
    OK King of " emoji " land .... the eight or nine laughing emoji's should have tipped you off to the fact that this post was a JOKE ...... I was Spoofing you and bought it ..... toooooooooooo funny .........PS Lamont didn't EDIT or Delete anything.....because when the administrator delete's something it's Totally gone ...from the board, from the files even in your personal folder ..... It's like it NEVER existed. But like I said earlier " when the truth doesn't fit the discussion ( in your mind ) you just make things up " ...... Mike

  6. #106
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    OK King of " emoji " land .... the eight or nine laughing emoji's should have tipped you off to the fact that this post was a JOKE ...... I was Spoofing you and bought it ..... toooooooooooo funny .........PS Lamont didn't EDIT or Delete anything.....because when the administrator delete's something it's Totally gone ...from the board, from the files even in your personal folder ..... It's like it NEVER existed. But like I said earlier " when the truth doesn't fit the discussion ( in your mind ) you just make things up " ...... Mike
    That post in the screenshot was referencing what you put on my for sale items thread! Of course, it would be gone. He even let me know when he deleted your trollish comment. Better yet, he remembered it when I was with him a few weeks ago.

    Like it says in the screenshot... I was an Admin for a website with over 250,000 users. Did it for 7 years. You are the definition of a troll. You may not be very internet savvy. So you can go to a place called "Google" and do a "search" for that term.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  7. #107
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Default Back to the topic

    OK, let's get back to the original topic of this thread. Here's pic of my General Altimax when I replaced it after about 17k+ miles running at 24 - 25 psi. I rode solo at least half the time, 200+ lbs., with no extra load and with the trunk and saddlebags filled and a large bag on the back seat with maybe 80+ lbs. for about 1/2 the time.

    General rear tire at take off.jpg

    I'm running a Cooper CS5 Grand Touring now. Not enough miles on it yet to make a judgment about wear. I'm running it at around 18-20 psi.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #108
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tehrlich View Post
    Understood!

    I'm just a dag trying to avoid a bloody bingle. We would understand one another over a pint of XXXX.
    Abso-bloody-lutely
    Harrington, Australia

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    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  9. #109
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default Odd Tire wear pattern

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    OK, let's get back to the original topic of this thread. Here's pic of my General Altimax when I replaced it after about 17k+ miles running at 24 - 25 psi. I rode solo at least half the time, 200+ lbs., with no extra load and with the trunk and saddlebags filled and a large bag on the back seat with maybe 80+ lbs. for about 1/2 the time.

    General rear tire at take off.jpg

    I'm running a Cooper CS5 Grand Touring now. Not enough miles on it yet to make a judgment about wear. I'm running it at around 18-20 psi.
    I suppose I don't need to comment on the psi you were running this tire at ...... But what I find interesting is the odd wear pattern ......As shown in your pic there are three center strips , the left is most worn , then the middle, the right side is hardly worn compared to the other two ...... When wear shows up ( on tires ) it should be evenly distributed across the tread.....UNLESS that tire isn't tracking TRUE ...... You would think it would show up in visual inspection of the drive belt ..... but I'm sure you would have made any corrections needed in that area ...... I just checked my Hydro-edge which I have kept at or near 17 psi for the entire time I had it on ( about 35,000 miles ) it is at the end of it's Safe useful life and will be changed this year ....... Mine is evenly worn across the tread area, I checked a few of the large water sipes with a micrometer and they had very little variance..... Here's the kicker tho , I run my belt AT 160 lbs... and it moves across the rear sprocket constantly ie. when I check it during a ride it is rarely in the same place when I look at it ...... and this is for straight operation , not backing up at any point ..... From what I know of your Cooper it is rated as a very high mileage tire...... I think 18-20 psi is a very good starting point ..... I hope my feedback helps you ...... Mike

  10. #110
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    OK, let's get back to the original topic of this thread. Here's pic of my General Altimax when I replaced it after about 17k+ miles running at 24 - 25 psi. I rode solo at least half the time, 200+ lbs., with no extra load and with the trunk and saddlebags filled and a large bag on the back seat with maybe 80+ lbs. for about 1/2 the time.

    General rear tire at take off.jpg

    I'm running a Cooper CS5 Grand Touring now. Not enough miles on it yet to make a judgment about wear. I'm running it at around 18-20 psi.
    I didn't get a chance to photograph my Altimax when it was removed. But at more than twice the mileage the center looked about like yours, and the rest of the tread was worn away much like that center rib... much more even wear (which should explain the double-mileage life I enjoyed). I weigh 170 and ryde solo probably 3/4 of the time, no trailer.

    I ran it at the BRP psi of 28 for a very long time, until I learned on here that 17-18 was better. But I can't say at what point I lowered the psi.
    NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
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    Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
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    2015 Limited , Intense Red Pearl

  11. #111
    Active Member wd8ajj's Avatar
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    So with the 1000"s of tire postings and comments, Spent many many hours going over 1000's of comments the average PSI are 18 to 20 rear and 17 to 19 fronts. Most posts averaged out to those numbers.
    So with that, why are we still arguing this topic in heated detail?
    I crunched a lot of numbers over the last week and found that most were very happy in the stated ranges and we getting the optimum millage and ride comfort.
    This was also with different brands of tires that people are using. All came out the same.
    Just to add another tidbit, My local dealer, BigO Tires, who, I have bought and has mouthed my tires, agrees with the above tire pressures due to the weight of a Spyder over a car.

    The end


  12. #112
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default Tire psi Statistics

    Quote Originally Posted by wd8ajj View Post
    So with the 1000"s of tire postings and comments, Spent many many hours going over 1000's of comments the average PSI are 18 to 20 rear and 17 to 19 fronts. Most posts averaged out to those numbers.
    So with that, why are we still arguing this topic in heated detail?
    I crunched a lot of numbers over the last week and found that most were very happy in the stated ranges and we getting the optimum millage and ride comfort.
    This was also with different brands of tires that people are using. All came out the same.
    Just to add another tidbit, My local dealer, BigO Tires, who, I have bought and has mouthed my tires, agrees with the above tire pressures due to the weight of a Spyder over a car.

    The end

    Well you went the extra mile in your statistic quest ( so to speak ). I'd like to add this to help define what you learned. Although I think the Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires, I won't say that anyone NEEDS to get rid of them if they are on the front. If you have a well aligned ( ie Lazer ) front suspension the Kenda's can give decent mileage ( 22 to 28,000 avg. ), because each tire only supports half of what is on the rear tire ( approx. ) they wear ok. When they wear out and get replaced with an Auto tire the performance and mileage increase by quite a bit ( 35 to 45,000 avg. ) ..... The reason the front PSI numbers are in the upper range is because a lot of them are still Kenda's and Kenda's NEED the extra amount, in order to support the load ..... This isn't the case when Auto tires are used ( because they are stronger )...... Concerning the Rear tire numbers, the Kenda's wear out much, much quicker and most folks then switch to Auto tires which perform much better at the lower psi's you found ...... ...........As to why this topic is still Debated frequently, from my perspective it's all about SAFETY....Most folks would agree that if they see something BAD about to happen they intervene to prevent it if they can ...... I feel obligated ( I'm a former accident investigator ) to share my knowledge about tires............Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 08-27-2018 at 10:19 AM.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by wd8ajj View Post
    So with that, why are we still arguing this topic in heated detail?
    Because:
    Some people are just stubborn.
    Some people don't understand proper English.

    But mostly because people ASSume too much and fail to include details with their statements/claims.

    "You should run XX pounds of pressure in your tires." Is a totally invalid and probably misleading statement.

    To make it anywhere close to valid or useful, you must also mention the model of bike, the brand and type of tire and the normal load.
    EVEN if you have said a thousand times before what bike and tires you have. People have short memories.

  14. #114
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wd8ajj View Post
    So with the 1000"s of tire postings and comments, Spent many many hours going over 1000's of comments the average PSI are 18 to 20 rear and 17 to 19 fronts. Most posts averaged out to those numbers.
    So with that, why are we still arguing this topic in heated detail?
    I crunched a lot of numbers over the last week and found that most were very happy in the stated ranges and we getting the optimum millage and ride comfort.
    This was also with different brands of tires that people are using. All came out the same.
    Just to add another tidbit, My local dealer, BigO Tires, who, I have bought and has mouthed my tires, agrees with the above tire pressures due to the weight of a Spyder over a car.

    The end

    Basically, you are being influenced by well-intending people on this forum, HOWEVER it is ALSO the victim of internet "group-think." The very vocal emoji-abusing tactics on this site over this one particular topic has been relentless. There are many that have their tire pressures higher than 15-20psi. They just don't say it here because it is just a hassle.

    I've had a LOT of people private message me and come up to me at the Deadwood event that said that they, too, run higher pressures but don't want to get into some squabble with aggressive posters. James Thorne who put my wheels together and has done other work on my bike and many others runs higher PSI's on his Spyders, too. He is a highly educated engineer that services, repairs, and upgrades Spyders as another gig for him. Probably the last guy I'd listen to about car tires on Spyders is the kid at Big-O.

    So, just because you've read it here countless times doesn't mean it is totally the way everyone goes. But, I'm glad you feel like you can call it: The End. I seriously doubt it will be, though.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  15. #115
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Because:
    Some people are just stubborn.
    Some people don't understand proper English.

    But mostly because people ASSume too much and fail to include details with their statements/claims.

    "You should run XX pounds of pressure in your tires." Is a totally invalid and probably misleading statement.

    To make it anywhere close to valid or useful, you must also mention the model of bike, the brand and type of tire and the normal load.
    EVEN if you have said a thousand times before what bike and tires you have. People have short memories.
    Exactly, and I apologize that I wasn't clear about that in an earlier statement.

    Car tires have wide ranges of characteristics: sidewall stiffness, pliability, rubber compound, tread, weight, etc., etc., So blanket statements about car tires on motorcycles can be VERY different. "Butt", don't say anything about how it "feels." You will get an earful of pounding emojis and grand statements of "butt science."

    When I went through my own "discovery" of where my PSI's should be, I started low. It's a common statement here, so I started there. Low pressures did NOT feel right, and my spyder was SLUGGISH. However, the more I bumped up the psi's in my Yokohamas for my 2015 RT Limited, the more I loved riding my Spyder. I made a comment about it last year and was HAMMERED about it by a particular poster here. He was an absolute a-hole about it and we got into it. Next thing I know he is bragging about his cherished "sanctioned drag race" win. Fun times!

    I did my diligence of testing what I could do with pressures in the upper 20's. I rode for miles, stopped and took heat signature readings (as suggested from tire experts here,) and also tried stopping distances on wet pavement. I have a very long driveway, about 1000 feet. Now, I wasn't getting up highway speed, but I got a good idea of what it could stop with. Honestly, I didn't see much difference with the PSI as much as how I approached the stopping, i.e., the technique. I went to a big parking lot during a rain storm and did the same thing. It was the same. So, I feel VERY safe at 26psi up front and 28 psi in the back.

    I tried 15psi and laughed trying to just turn it in my driveway. Might was well be stuck in mud. No way any one will convince me that 14-15psi is correct for my Yoko's and the way I ride. But that is the group think here, and that's OK, just don't be an a-hole about it.

    Now, General Altimax: I have no clue. Haven't run them. I have extra rims and I may just buy some to work through the same workout. I have the stock Kendas on them, and it is NIGHT and DAY difference with 26psi in my Yoko's.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  16. #116
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    From the US Tire Manufacturer Safety Fact Sheet:

    PRESSURE
    Check tire pressure monthly and before long trips. Use the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pressure. Under-inflation wastes fuel and can damage tires.
    Last edited by tehrlich; 08-27-2018 at 05:57 PM.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  17. #117
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    From the National Highway and Transportation "Safety in Numbers." Volume 1, Issue 3, June 2013:

     

    Underinflation leads to poor fuel economy, sluggish handling, longer stopping distances, and increased stress to tire components. Another concern is how heat affects tires. In the hot summer months, the high heat and hot roadways contribute to the breakdown of tires and a greater opportunity for tire failure.



    1. Underinflated tires lead to sluggish handling, longer stopping distances, increased stress to tire components, and heat buildup. These in turn can lead to catastrophic failure of the tire, such as separation or blowout.
    2. Underinflation also decreases fuel economy. Proper inflation strikes the perfect balance of maximized safety and fuel economy – both related to the amount of surface contact between the tire and the road.
    3. A NHTSA study of tire inflation pressure and tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) showed that 12 percent of all passenger vehicles in the United States of model years 2004-2011 (with and without TPMS) have at least one tire underinflated by at least 25 percent (www-nrd.nhtsa. dot.gov/Pubs/811681.pdf).





     


    1. NHTSA reviewed data from the National Motor Vehicle Crash Causation Survey for tire-involvement before the crash occurred (www-nrd.nhtsa.dot. gov/Pubs/811617.pdf).
    2. About 9 percent of the estimated total crashes were "tire-related crashes." Some of the issues included tread separations, blowouts, bald tires, and underinflation.







    Last edited by tehrlich; 08-27-2018 at 05:58 PM.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  18. #118
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    From the NHTSA regarding motorcycle tires in a publication: "What's Your PSI?: Know your pressure levels and load limits."

    Know Your Pressure Level and Load Limits
    • Become familiar with your motorcycle manufacturer's inflation guidelines. Look in your motorcycle owner's manual to find the right
      PSI (pounds per square inch) of air pressure for your tires. Some bike manufacturers also list this formation on the bike itself. Common locations include the swing arm, front fork tubes, inside the trunk,
      and under the seat.
    • Keep in mind that these recommendations are usually dependent upon the weight of you and your passenger, as well as any cargo. For instance, some manufacturers advise adding 3 or 4 PSI when carrying
      a heavy load
      . Know your vehicle weight and load, and follow the PSI recommendations specific to your motorcycle. Failure to do so can result in adverse motorcycle handling (wobble and weave) or tire failure, or both.
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  19. #119
    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    From "Ultimate Motorcycling" Website. Motorcycle Tires: Top 10 Things to Know and Safety Tips. LINK HERE>

    10. The old saying is that “the tire doesn’t carry the load—the air does.” The point there being that maintaining proper tire inflation is crucial to proper performance, tire service life and safety.
    Under-inflated tires overheat, are more prone to blow-outs, sidewall failure and premature wear. Similarly, over-inflated tires may fail prematurely and wear improperly.

    .................................................. .................................................. ..................................................


    This is DOES mention OVERINFLATION, however, NOBODY knows when CAR tires on motorcycles are overinflated!
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


    2015 RT Limited , black

  20. #120
    Active Member TheCajun1957's Avatar
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    A couple of months ago I finally decided to get a General Altimax to replace my rear Kendra. I read a lot of the messages here and its the one I picked. I have been riding on the Kendra trying to get the last mileage out of it. Last week I took it to Dirty Deeds Powersports in Longview TX to have the tire changed. When I drove it home I noticed I was having the same problems yall described when the tire is overinflated, the ride was still a lot smoother. Next morning I checked tire pressure, it was 21 psi. I lowered it to 18 psi cold. My lady and I went out for a test drive.

    HOLY SMOKES, SHAZAM !!!!!!!
    (Clean version)

    Talk about a drastic change in handling and smoothness of ride. Even my lady said it was more comfortable to ride, when hitting bumps in the road the spyder was less bouncy. We like to travel a lot of back roads for enjoyment, those roads are not in the best of shape. They were a lot smoother and it seemed the rear end did not sway nearly as much.

    I dropped my lady off at her house and went for a ride one up to see if the same applied. The ride is AWESOME. Should have changed to the General Altimax along time ago.

    SO

    YES!!! The ride is SOOO much better then the Kendra.

    YES !!!! I was amazed at the difference in handling between 21 psi and 18 psi.

    Question? Is there that much difference in the Front end handling after switching to a car tires in the Front?
    Last edited by TheCajun1957; 08-27-2018 at 08:10 PM.
    2018 White F3 Limited

  21. #121
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Todd, you have posted a gazillion times above (well.... 3 times), that under inflation is “bad” according to several reputable sources. I, and I would imagine most others, agree with that sentiment completely. But what is the point of posting that, when it is not known if even 8psi on a Spyder is in fact “under inflated”?

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  22. #122
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    “Question? Is there that much difference in the Front end handling after switching to a car tires in the Front?”

    Yes and No, Cajun.
    It depends who you speak to. Everyone has different needs and drivers.
    The installation of the Ron Bar made a huge difference in front end handling for me, and the Kuhmos not so much, although the F3 does feel more “planted”. Others are as happy as the proverbial pig in ——, with their Kendas. If you are happy with what you are experiencing, there is no necessity to change.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  23. #123
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default INFORMATION FROM GOVT. AND MTC SOURCES

    Todd that is all accurate info ..........The problem is you CAN'T apply it to Spyders using auto tires...... because all their Data comes from car and pick-up trucks using the AUTO type tires on cars and pk-ups ........You appear to a fantastic ability to find obscure data ...... So find some that proves HIGH INFLATION provides more Traction !!!!!!! ( you will be searching for that info for the rest of your life ) ......Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 08-27-2018 at 10:46 PM.

  24. #124
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRONT TIRES

    Quote Originally Posted by TheCajun1957 View Post
    A couple of months ago I finally decided to get a General Altimax to replace my rear Kendra. I read a lot of the messages here and its the one I picked. I have been riding on the Kendra trying to get the last mileage out of it. Last week I took it to Dirty Deeds Powersports in Longview TX to have the tire changed. When I drove it home I noticed I was having the same problems yall described when the tire is overinflated, the ride was still a lot smoother. Next morning I checked tire pressure, it was 21 psi. I lowered it to 18 psi cold. My lady and I went out for a test drive.

    HOLY SMOKES, SHAZAM !!!!!!!
    (Clean version)

    Talk about a drastic change in handling and smoothness of ride. Even my lady said it was more comfortable to ride, when hitting bumps in the road the spyder was less bouncy. We like to travel a lot of back roads for enjoyment, those roads are not in the best of shape. They were a lot smoother and it seemed the rear end did not sway nearly as much.

    I dropped my lady off at her house and went for a ride one up to see if the same applied. The ride is AWESOME. Should have changed to the General Altimax along time ago.

    SO

    YES!!! The ride is SOOO much better then the Kendra.

    YES !!!! I was amazed at the difference in handling between 21 psi and 18 psi.

    Question? Is there that much difference in the Front end handling after switching to a car tires in the Front?
    I'll give this a shot .... Spyders have a unique dynamic because of the three wheel setup .... I have stated and firmly believe the KENDA tire is weakly/poorly made , it is at the edge of it's weight carrying ability for the RT.....this is fact not my opinion ..... However I'll be real honest about this ... As long as you didn't get a Defective tire and your front alignment is spot on , they could give you 22 to 25,000 miles of wear, Because they have half or less the amount of plies they are more likely to get a flat.... example if you have leather dress gloves on and you are handling say wood how long do you think they will last compared to heavy duty logging gloves ????? ...... that' the difference. There will be a handling difference also , but really sticky ( like Toyo Proxes T1r's ) can provide so much traction the NANNY gets angry and shuts you down..... There has quite a few folks on this Forum who have claimed that as long as you drive SMOOTH , you can go at any speed in any radius curve and you won't trigger the NANNY ....this is pure un-adulterated - BS..... and you don't have to even believe me because the BRP engineers designed the system to prevent you from killing your-self, so believe them. Personally I would recommend switching to Car Tires ALL-around ....Mike

  25. #125
    Active Member fjray's Avatar
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    I don't see why the data isn't applicable. We are talking a car tire on a car wheel operating on the same roads . The Spyder suspension is more automotive than motorcycle. It possible to have the same load on the rear wheel of a Spyder as one corner of a 3600 pound car . The cornering force should be the same as the car given the same load per tire so it would seem the pressure should be at appropriate levels. Please explain why not using verifiable data.

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