RT 622 trailer pack wheel bearings, who should service?

[TicketBait]

Ok more questions in post #9, and also after I remove wheel

Called two can am dealers. and both they never done wheel bearing servicing on the RT 622 trailer. One said $275 and the other one $200 said they can read the manual and figure it out.


OR?

I have read several informative threads here on this subject. Might I be better off going to a reputable tire dealer or trailer shop to have this done?

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Is there a pdf or video on this I can show them. ( I do have my manual for the trailer,
Have learned to make sure you have water resistant grease. To also not over pack, and other stuff. I hope whoever does it, does it correctly

The below quote I took from a discussion, What are bearing buddies? Do I need to have those too?

I did Ann's hubs today. She was worried the bearing buddies did not grease the inner bearings; so, took them apart, wiped off old grease, packed in new, charged up the bearing buddies, put back together. FYI, plenty of grease on inner bearings. Plenty to start with, and plenty in the buddy. So, no, not sealed wheel bearings. Old school, hand full of grease, messy fun! Hey, BRP, the 70's called: they want their bearings back!!!
For 4 grand, the 622 should have sealed ceramic bearings!!!
call me if you need help. Joe

PUBLIC SERVICE NOTICE

Nice day out today so i decided to repack the bearings on my 2010 RT-622 Trailer,........................ Glad I did, when you take off the dust cover it looks pretty good, lots of grease and no moisture, but decided that i was gonna get it done anyway.

Outside Bearing had plenty of grease ..................... Good

Inside Bearing had a little grease ...............Not So Good

Total Repack = No More Concerns ..................Really Good

When you check them don't rely on what you see when you pull the dust cover off ........................... Look further, it may make the difference on your next trip.


Cruzr Joe

Thanks to all the discussion here about RT-622 trailer bearings and grease seals, I was motivated to inspect our trailer's wheel hubs and discovered a leaking grease seal on our 2013 Can-Am RT-622 trailer.

Replaced the leaking grease seal, repacked the wheel bearings with water-resistant grease, and added a set of Bearing Buddy trailer wheel bearing protectors. Following provides part number info for quick reference:

1.) Grease Seal (Aka: Oil Seal or Aka: Inner Dust Shield) - manufactured by Chicago Rawhide (as suggested by others --- I took the wheel hub to the NAPA Auto Parts store where we measured and confirmed the required grease seal part number):
NAPA Part Number: 14832 --- purchased from local NAPA Auto Parts store.

2.) Bearing Buddy - Stainless Steel trailer wheel bearing protector:
Model Number: 1980SS (Indicated to fit Outer Bearing Cone: L44649) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Knott bearing number as depicted on trailer hub wheel bearings: L44649

3.) Bearing Buddy Bra (aka Extended Dust Cap):
Model Number: 19B (Indicated on Bearing Buddy package to fit Bearing Buddy Model 1980) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Again thanks to our Spyderlovers discussion Forum --- I can only imagine that we have been spared from experiencing a trailer hub bearing failure somewhere down the road. Thank You & HooYah!

[cptjam]

If you can spread peanut butter, you can repack these! Buy a can of axle grease. I like AMSOIL, but Walmart will do. Chock the wheel front and rear, loosen lugnuts. Jack up an inch or two. Place jackstands under trailer. Remove wheel. Pry off cap. Wipe off grease. Remove cotter pin. Unscrew nut. Wear rubber gloves. Pull out bearing. Set aside. Tug on hub. Remove. Remove bearing, seal. Wash bearings in solvent, clean up hub. Once clean and dry, inspect for damage. Roll bearing, feel for flat spots. If good, put a ping pong ball sized glob of grease in your palm. Use bearing to scoop grease in between bearing and race. Do the other one. Inspect grease seal. If ok, install along with bearing (inner). Slip hub on, install other bearing. Slip on washer and castlelated nut. Tighten until there is no endplay. Insert cotter pin. Install bearing buddies, use grease gun to fill. Put rubber cap (bra). Put wheel on, tighten lugnuts. Torque. Do the other side. Or, see Finless Bob, or, bring it to me. Really is easy. Call if you need help! Joe

[Bfromla]

If you can spread peanut butter, you can repack these! Buy a can of axle grease. I like AMSOIL, but Walmart will do. Chock the wheel front and rear, loosen lugnuts. Jack up an inch or two. Place jackstands under trailer. Remove wheel. Pry off cap. Wipe off grease. Remove cotter pin. Unscrew nut. Wear rubber gloves. Pull out bearing. Set aside. Tug on hub. Remove. Remove bearing, seal. Wash bearings in solvent, clean up hub. Once clean and dry, inspect for damage. Roll bearing, feel for flat spots. If good, put a ping pong ball sized glob of grease in your palm. Use bearing to scoop grease in between bearing and race. Do the other one. Inspect grease seal. If ok, install along with bearing (inner). Slip hub on, install other bearing. Slip on washer and castlelated nut. Tighten until there is no endplay. Insert cotter pin. Install bearing buddies, use grease gun to fill. Put rubber cap (bra). Put wheel on, tighten lugnuts. Torque. Do the other side. Or, see Finless Bob, or, bring it to me. Really is easy. Call if you need help! Joe

Plus DIY helps you know your stuff & what to do when you are out of options
Just few additional pointers: bearing grease usally has a funky smell to it just FYI ,the cotter pin may need replacing if bent too much they just snap, you might want to install something like Bering buddies to help with the next time

[TicketBait]

Thank you both for your advice, Joe I will show what you wrote to whoever I hire to do this job I have no intention of attempting this. My question am I better off at one of the dealerships or going to a local reputable tire store near me. I’m going to call the tire store tomorrow and see what they say.

Tomorrow morning I am having a new rear tire put on as there’s hardly any tread left and when I get up to the Norcal event three weeks from now I want to have a squared away alignment time as well 👍

[cptjam]

Any trailer dealership can do it.
No problem on the alignment! See you there! Joe

[jaherbst]

Plus DIY helps you know your stuff & what to do when you are out of options
Just few additional pointers: bearing grease usally has a funky smell to it just FYI ,the cotter pin may need replacing if bent too much they just snap, you might want to install something like Bering buddies to help with the next time

I do not recommend Bearing Buddy's for such a simple job. Bearing Buddy's do not get grease to the rear Bearing unless you fill up the entire Hub and put grease in at a

high pressure. This is such a simple job even a "Cave Man" can do it. Seriously! Manual for the 622 can be down loaded from the BRP site or you can still order one.

Jack

[BoilerAnimal]

I took our utility trailer to a local tire dealer that also does brakes and wheel alignments. Cost me $50 total to repack the bearings. Seems to me that a couple of outfits have a get rich quick scheme going on.

[finless]

TicketBait… I know you can take the wheels off the axle. It is super simple.
If you don't want to mess with the grease, remove them per instructions above and take the mess to a car place for clean and repack.
Return home and put the wheels back on.

Bob

[TicketBait]

My questions are in Blue?

TicketBait… I know you can take the wheels off the axle. It is super simple.
If you don't want to mess with the grease, remove them per instructions above and take the mess to a car place for clean and repack.Yes I will try this first
Return home and put the wheels back on.

Bob

Ok, yes I know how to remove wheel, but have some questions re: Red highlights
Buy a can of axle grease. I like AMSOIL, but Walmart will do.

Chock the wheel front and rear, loosen lugnuts. Jack up an inch or two.

Place jackstands under trailer.

Remove wheel.

Pry off cap. Wipe off grease.

Remove cotter pin.
Unscrew nut.
Wear rubber gloves.
Pull out bearing. Set aside
. Tug on hub. Remove. Remove bearing, seal. Wash bearings in solvent, clean up hub. Once clean and dry, inspect for damage.

Roll bearing, feel for flat spots.If good, put a ping pong ball sized glob of grease in your palm.

Use bearing to scoop grease in between bearing and race.
Do the other one.

Inspect grease seal. If ok, install along with bearing (inner).

Slip hub on, install other bearing.

Slip on washer and castlelated nut.

Tighten until there is no endplay.

Insert cotter pin. What size, will tire shop have this?

Install bearing buddies, use grease gun to fill. Do I get Bearing buddies at pep boys or auto zone or order on internet? size #1980

Put rubber cap (bra).
Put wheel on, tighten lugnuts. Torque. Torque to what? I have a torque wrenchDo the other side. Or, see Finless Bob, or, bring it to me. Really is easy. Call if you need help! Joe

Also what are trailer wheels torqued to?

Unbelieveable, my 2 ton jack isn’t working and I looked all over for my jackstands and realized I sold them in a garage sale TicketBait

[TicketBait]

Everything got turned sidewaze. I4GQetOwRiam0tK1V8aYGg.jpg literally

[viperryder]

I have a Lisle Handy Packer Bearing Packer #34550, and I have packed my own bearings. This unit allows you to put "Bearing Grease" in through the bottom and then press, with my hands down, and will force out the old grease and force the new grease into the bearing. I have done this to all the rear wheel bearings and have taken it to Canada and will be taking it to Spyderquest this year. I have taken it out for trial runs to check for bearing hear and there is none. The unit is from Lisle Corporation Clarinda Iowa, 516321. Hope this helps.

[TicketBait]

I have a Lisle Handy Packer Bearing Packer #34550, and I have packed my own bearings. This unit allows you to put "Bearing Grease" in through the bottom and then press, with my hands down, and will force out the old grease and force the new grease into the bearing. I have done this to all the rear wheel bearings and have taken it to Canada and will be taking it to Spyderquest this year. I have taken it out for trial runs to check for bearing hear and there is none. The unit is from Lisle Corporation Clarinda Iowa, 516321. Hope this helps.

Ok I ran around today getting hydraulic jack oil,
only to discover that the seals are bad on the jack,
so went to Harbor Freights and got an inexpensive jack
and floor stands, while at auto zone picked
up this grease, doesn't say water resistant,
but will get next time. (unless you experts tell me differently)
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Also pep boys had the Lisle Bearing Packer and I watched a youtube
video on how it works, (thx viperryder)



So .....stay tuned later this week I will attempt to pack the bearings

Anybody know what size cotter pin do I need to get? if not I will pull the one in there out and use that to match up.

I will look in manual to see if torque specs are given on
trailer wheels, unless someone knows off the top of there head!?

on a side note when I was in the checkout line at pep boys the cashier
asked if I was doing an engine change, and in a lower and deeper voice
I said, " nah, no engine change this time, just wheel bearings on my trailer!"

[SpyderSteveFL]

I do not recommend Bearing Buddy's for such a simple job. Bearing Buddy's do not get grease to the rear Bearing unless you fill up the entire Hub and put grease in at a

high pressure. This is such a simple job even a "Cave Man" can do it. Seriously! Manual for the 622 can be down loaded from the BRP site or you can still order one.

Jack

Jack,

I have read lots of posts on the trailer bearings and in each one you recommend against the bearing buddies but yet many others do recommend them. I've even seen posts supposedly proving grease does get to inner bearing. Do you know something or have some sort of proof that refutes the others? And I do know about they stick out too far - an aesthetics concern - but it would be really good for everyone to be in agreement on whether the bearing buddies actually work or not - or more importantly, even if they are just a 'placebo' will they ultimately give you false sense of security leading to damage. Regardless of how simple a repack may be, please show us some evidence that the buddies actually don't work. Thanks!

[Sarge707]

You can buy Pre-greased hubs at etrailer.com or eastmarine - Just take old hub off and slide on new- about $40 Each hub as long as you know the sizes. Just an option-When you watch a bunch of YouTubes on the topic its not hard to do as long as you have gloves!