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Thread: sway bar

  1. #1
    Active Member stmike 1800's Avatar
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    Default sway bar

    Does any one know the difference between the 2017 sway bar 706201544 and the 2018 706202800 ?

  2. #2
    Active Member stmike 1800's Avatar
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    The bajaron is 14mm and if i measured my right the stock 2018 RTL is 16 mm.

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stmike 1800 View Post
    The bajaron is 14mm and if i measured my right the stock 2018 RTL is 16 mm.
    Not sure what you are measuring. But my RT bar is 17.5mm. You need to know a lot more about a sway bar than just diameter to have any meaningful idea as to whether or not it is stronger. You can have 2 sway bars of identical diameter and one can be much stronger than the other.

    There are actually 3 parameters which combine to make a sway bar stronger or weaker. To get an accurate assessment without actually testing the bars, you will also need to know what spring steel compound is being used and the exact length of arm for both bars. Only when these other 2 aspects are identical will diameter tell you which bar will be stronger and which will be weaker.

    As far as I can tell there is no real functional difference between the old and the new part #. BRP and other manufacturer's are known to change part #'s when they change suppliers for a particular item. This may be the case here.

    Or, the new bar may be similar to what BRP sold as an 'Upgrade' for the RS/ST models. This upgrade bar was the same sway bar that came stock on the RSS. This sway bar was slightly stronger. But functionally, you could not tell any difference from the stock sway bar when riding.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 08-21-2018 at 11:52 AM.
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  4. #4
    Active Member stmike 1800's Avatar
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    Yes i do know there are difference in the tensile strength of steel , but my bikes must be made of lead .

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stmike 1800 View Post
    Yes i do know there are difference in the tensile strength of steel , but my bikes must be made of lead .
    Everyone has a different take on how the stock RT feels. Set up correctly, the RT is pretty nimble for its size and weight. It is a heavy machine. But the weight does have some advantage as it gives you a very nice ride and keeps the Spyder firmly planted in most situations.

    Unfortunately, the stock suspension does not handle the weight as well as it could. Combined with the factory alignment and tires, it can all add up to the 'Lead' feeling you are experiencing.

    But to be fair. The vast majority of Spyders out there remain stock and customers are, for the most part, happy with them. However, I feel that if they were to experience a properly set up Spyder, they would be very impressed with the difference. The sway bar upgrade alone can be pretty amazing.

    The comment I get a lot is that customers feel for the money they paid. They should not need to go out and purchase several hundred dollars worth of upgrades to realize the amazing potential of their Spyder. And I must say I agree with them. But it is what it is and the choices are pretty clear. Be happy with a stock machine or go with the proven upgrades.

    I am just happy that my customers have big smiles. That's what it is all about.
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Anti-sway bar is #1.

    "I am just happy that my customers have big smiles. That's what it is all about. "

    I couldn't be happier with the suspension mods I've made---- the anti-sway bar is #1

    That said:
    The CanAM Spyder should have come from the dealer/ factory with proper front wheel alignment and tire pressure ( and better tires ). BUT ....... it can all be made right. Thousands of us are happy with our Spyders.

    My V-Max came from the dealer with a bad high speed wobble . But I had done my research and knew how to fix it ( lowered the price by over $1000 also). Has handled great since. (proper tire pressure also makes a huge difference)

    My ZX-11 developed funny handling BUT ...... when I checked the wheel alignment it was out ( because of my poor chain adjustment skills ). The waggle was gone with a few cents of string.

    That said:
    Thousands of us have great handling 's.

    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in circuit yellow, farkeling addiction down to once every few months.

  7. #7
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    The sway bar should be your number 1 first upgrade. I just purchased a 2015 RTS with 2700 miles about 2 weeks ago. I've ridden motorcycles for 50 years and have already gotten nervous a couple of times on the RT with respect to how the factory sway bar doesn't hold a line in a curve as good as it should. I purchased the BajaRon Anti Sway Bar $288 shipping included and installed it 2 days ago. This was the best purchase I could have made for the spyder. It is like night and day for curves and handling on the interstate with wind buffeting from other vehicles. I think it made such a difference I just don't understand why BRP doesn't put this level of anti sway bar on the spiders from the factory. This is one purchase you will never regret making.

  8. #8
    Active Member bobnaquin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vienna7475 View Post
    The sway bar should be your number 1 first upgrade. I just purchased a 2015 RTS with 2700 miles about 2 weeks ago. I've ridden motorcycles for 50 years and have already gotten nervous a couple of times on the RT with respect to how the factory sway bar doesn't hold a line in a curve as good as it should. I purchased the BajaRon Anti Sway Bar $288 shipping included and installed it 2 days ago. This was the best purchase I could have made for the spyder. It is like night and day for curves and handling on the interstate with wind buffeting from other vehicles. I think it made such a difference I just don't understand why BRP doesn't put this level of anti sway bar on the spiders from the factory. This is one purchase you will never regret making.

    I rode RS #610 for 45,000. I rode RS #106 for 30,000 miles. I moved 'up' to a 2017 RT and the difference in handling is scary. The RT is definitely an interstate cruiser and does that well.

    So you changed your sway bar. Did you change the links? I heard that they will break with a more robust sway bar. Any truth to that. I suspect that BajaRon has it covered one way or the other.

    Then there is the factory alignment issue. I had mine checked by Squared Away and they indicated it was right on. Is there some mod people are making to the alignment to improve the handling. I am not likely to change my alignment without a LOT of research.

    Mean while I will enjoy my Rt..until I need to make a turn

  9. #9
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    The links are provided with Ron's sway bar.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Fatcycledaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobnaquin View Post
    I rode RS #610 for 45,000. I rode RS #106 for 30,000 miles. I moved 'up' to a 2017 RT and the difference in handling is scary. The RT is definitely an interstate cruiser and does that well.

    So you changed your sway bar. Did you change the links? I heard that they will break with a more robust sway bar. Any truth to that. I suspect that BajaRon has it covered one way or the other.

    Then there is the factory alignment issue. I had mine checked by Squared Away and they indicated it was right on. Is there some mod people are making to the alignment to improve the handling. I am not likely to change my alignment without a LOT of research.

    Mean while I will enjoy my Rt..until I need to make a turn
    I have a 2015 RTL and very seldom run the interstate. We run all of the twisty back roads we can find, with and without towing a camper trailer, two up, and fully loaded frunk and bags. Without the trailer is a lot faster and a lot more fun! By myself, no trailer, no load in frunk or bags, and look out, not much can out run me.
    I have installed Baharon's sway bar and taking turns 10-15 MPH over the posted speed towing the camper is quite common, with greater speeds and nanny kicking in without the camper. I find that the RTL handles the curves like a nice sports car, let off a little as you enter, open the throttle as you go through, and exit the curve with a huge smile on your face!
    2015 RTL


  11. #11
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    I test drove spyders with and without sway bars - there was a world of difference between the two. I bought my spyder with sway bar and it is awesome. It should be standard equipment in my opinion. I believe the dealer installed a 3rd party swahy bar and not one from BRP.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimH View Post
    I test drove spyders with and without sway bars - there was a world of difference between the two.
    I'm pretty sure that you don't understand this correctly.

    I think they ALL have a sway bar, at least recent models, and the replacement is just stiffer.

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I'm pretty sure that you don't understand this correctly.

    I think they ALL have a sway bar, at least recent models, and the replacement is just stiffer.
    You are exactly right. And there is some confusion about sway bars and the Spyder. Very few people know much about sway bars. And this is understandable.

    Some think the Spyder has multiple sway bars.
    Some think the Spyder comes with no sway bar at all.

    All Spyders come from the factory with a sway bar installed. My sway bar is simply a swap out replacement product.

    The Spyder could not survive without a sway bar of some kind. I have ridden a Spyder without a sway bar. And though not super dangerous, you do have to be careful going into curves or turns.

    All of my sway bar kits include my billet aluminum Heim joints or end links. The original equipment plastic composite links hold up well enough with the stock bar. But at the minimum, they will stretch when used with my sway bars. This stretching reduces the positive effects of the sway bar upgrade. It is also true that using the stock plastic links increases the possibility of breakage. And you really don't want to lose your sway bar in the middle of a high speed curve.

    The only exception to this is the 2008-2012 GS, RS, RSS sway bar kit. Since this kit is not as stiff as the OEM RT bar kits which hold up well with the stock links. I don't require my custom links be installed with this bar kit. Though even this kit will give you better results if you do include the billet aluminum set.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...



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