Had a similar continual issue on mine dealer did some OHM test found rear sensor had failed,
replaced & back to smiles
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Ok for $52.50 Seneca powersports will turn off the brake failure code of the problem has been fixed by me. If it hasnt then of course they cant turn the code warning off
Ok for $52.50 Seneca powersports will turn off the brake failure code of the problem has been fixed by me. If it hasnt then of course they cant turn the code warning off
After you fix the issue , remove key and put it away from the Spyder ..Remove both Battery terminals , wait 5 min. then re-attach.....I think this might clear your codes and it's free Mike
After you fix the issue , remove key and put it away from the Spyder ..Remove both Battery terminals , wait 5 min. then re-attach.....I think this might clear your codes and it's free Mike
Lol will try that tomorrow
so basically just go out side. Remove battery. Re attach it later and put key in and see what happens
Well I topped off the brake fluid and couldn’t the code off
I checked the brake lights and they are fine
i checked the brakes and they still have life in them
so next thing I’m going to do is bleed the brakes and see what that gets me
This might be a little late in the game & it might even be something you've already tried, but for what it's worth, if it isn't too late/you haven't tried it yet/for all those others who might be reading to try & sort their own similar issues..... did you take your Spyder for a ryde?? Yeah, I know, you definitely DO need to be careful doing that, maybe even stick to just ryding up & down your driveway a few times, but often when I've seen a brake warning code pop up after someone's changed the pads & gone on to make sure everything else is fine only to still have a brake warning pop up, it goes away after ryding it for a bit!!
Sometimes it's just taken a few yards of ryding & one application, sometimes it's taken almost a mile of gentle ryding &/or a few gentle brake applications during that ryde distance; but like I said, if the only thing done has been to change the pads & everything else checks out OK, going for a gentle ryde seems to be high on the list of things to do that just might work! So if you haven't done that yet, maybe you should give it a go?!? If you have, then hopefully this might help someone else!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-14-2018 at 10:32 PM.
This might be a little late in the game & it might even be something you've already tried, but for what it's worth, if it isn't too late/you haven't tried it yet/for all those others who might be reading to try & sort their own similar issues..... did you take your Spyder for a ryde?? Yeah, I know, you definitely DO need to be careful doing that, maybe even stick to just ryding up & down your driveway a few times, but often when I've seen a brake warning code pop up after someone's changed the pads & gone on to make sure everything else is fine only to still have a brake warning pop up, it goes away after ryding it for a bit!!
Sometimes it's just taken a few yards of ryding & one application, sometimes it's taken almost a mile of gentle ryding &/or a few gentle brake applications during that ryde distance; but like I said, if the only thing done has been to change the pads & everything else checks out OK, going for a gentle ryde seems to be high on the list of things to do that just might work! So if you haven't done that yet, maybe you should give it a go?!? If you have, then hopefully this might help someone else!
The code may have occurred after the brake caliper was removed and reinstalled, then the key was on when the brake was applied. This will cause a low pressure code. Always pump the brakes up hard after a brake job before turning the key on.
Sequence to try:
turn key on
press down on brake pedal as far as possible. you should hear 2 clicks.
hold brake pedal down firmly
turn key off and wait at least 30 seconds
turn key on and code should be cleared.
This is out of the repair manual. But it does not state whether or not to hold the pedal down while the key is off and waiting 30 seconds. I would assume you can release the brake after the key is turned off.
I told him the brakes need to be flushed and that requires BUDS. Then while in BUDS, clear the code. Job done. Its required every 2 years.
Because doing the job correctly costs money because he has to pay someone that has the tools to do the job. The diagnoses has been given . He just refuses to deal with it.
I told him the brakes need to be flushed and that requires BUDS. Then while in BUDS, clear the code. Job done. Its required every 2 years.
Because doing the job correctly costs money because he has to pay someone that has the tools to do the job. The diagnoses has been given . He just refuses to deal with it.
If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then thats bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isnt like that
If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then thats bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isnt like that
You own the darn spyder, if you don't want to pay what it costs to get it fixed then sell it & use your R1. You've been told how to get it fixed properly by an expert. Either do it or quit whining.
If you have to pay to clear codes every 2 years then thats bogus. Glad my Yamaha R1 isnt like that
No, the system requires BUDS to do a proper flush and that is required every 2 years.
You only have to clear the code because the service was not done and now the contaminated fluid has set a fault code.
I was just explaining you need BUDS to do the flush, resetting the code while in there does not take any more time. You either buy the tools to work on the bike or pay someone that has bought the tools. Bike maintenance is not free. Other bikes and some cars with ABS systems have similar requirements for flushing.
No, the system requires BUDS to do a proper flush and that is required every 2 years.
You only have to clear the code because the service was not done and now the contaminated fluid has set a fault code.
I was just explaining you need BUDS to do the flush, resetting the code while in there does not take any more time. You either buy the tools to work on the bike or pay someone that has bought the tools. Bike maintenance is not free. Other bikes and some cars with ABS systems have similar requirements for flushing.
This will not be a popular post. If you do not know about or understand your brakes more than adding fluid or a simple brake pad change pay a qualified person to accomplish the task.
These are the brakes and in most cases are an important safety item. It may hurt your pocket to pay the couple hundred to flush the brakes and bleed them, but suffice to say it less costly than an ER visit after a wreck or being dead.
These things should be designed so that a mechanically skilled person be able to maintain it without visiting the dealer. I've had bikes for the last 50 years and was able to do all the necessary work to keep them going. It just offends me that I need to spend 750$ Canadian for a software to properly bleed the brakes and read/reset the codes the computer generates. What happened to the right to repair?
If the guy who started this thread wants to dig as deep as possible to find a solution that doesn't require a dealer he should not be criticized for trying improve his level of knowledge and those of other readers. Have a great day guys and girls.
These things should be designed so that a mechanically skilled person be able to maintain it without visiting the dealer. I've had bikes for the last 50 years and was able to do all the necessary work to keep them going. It just offends me that I need to spend 750$ Canadian for a software to properly bleed the brakes and read/reset the codes the computer generates. What happened to the right to repair?
If the guy who started this thread wants to dig as deep as possible to find a solution that doesn't require a dealer he should not be criticized for trying improve his level of knowledge and those of other readers. Have a great day guys and girls.
Like cars, a lot has changed in 50 years. What we easily worked on with cars from the 60s or prior has now been blessed with increased performance that required electronics to make it happen and electronics to diagnose the faults when they occurr.
As for the person that started this topic digging as deep as possible, if they were to read the maintenance manual, it would be obvious that BUDS is only required per the book for the final step in the brake fluid flush and bleed process. Additionally, the brake system flush and bleed task is a scheduled item per BRP to be accomplished each 24 months.
Very often, on other groups brake faults are posted. Typically low fluid or riding the pedal is the cause. Even so, very few owners adhere to brake maintenance tasks per the scheduled maintenance, and once the system is flushed and bled, unless parts have failed, the issue is resolved.
So extending your quoted words, maybe this owner needs to accomplish the flush and bleed per the manual prior to spending the money. As you say this will improve their level of knowledge, and ironically, let them feel and understand the effort required when done by the shop. Yes the task is simple. Jack and remove front wheels then safely support the vehicle. Remove fluid from reservoir and properly discard. Fill reservoir with correct brake fluid. By whatever means seems appropriate. Flush the brake system via the 4, yes 4 brake bleeders. Bleed the brakes by whatever method seems appropriate via the 4 bleeders. If available, accomplish the BUDS portion to remove tne last bit of old fluid. Ensure the bleed is providing a firm pedal. Reset the system by building and holding brake pressure before energizing the key. Properly discard all old fluid, reinstall front wheels and lower vehicle.
Here is something that's not being said .. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set .. WHERE IS THAT 1% .. I think it's in the VCM sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS .I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ..jmho .. Mike
Here is something that's not being said .. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set .. WHERE IS THAT 1% .. I think it's in the VCM sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS .I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ..jmho .. Mike
Yes, I accomplished flush and bleed on our 2014 RTS a couple years ago and it needs to be done again. Followed the manual, but avoided the last BUDS step and still have far better performing brakes than when new.
Here is something that's not being said .. A 99% brake job can be done without needing BUDS to re-set .. WHERE IS THAT 1% .. I think it's in the VCM sooooooooooooooo if you leave that alone - No BUDS .I just did mine on a 2014 RT SE, and I love the better feel and No I didn't need a BUDS re-set ..jmho .. Mike
What job on the brakes did you do?? System flush? Pad changes? Please specify.
What job on the brakes did you do?? System flush? Pad changes? Please specify.
Thanks.
After checking pad wear ( the thickness was good ), I slowly drained the old fluid and simultaneously added New DOT 4 fluid. .. because I did it this way I probably used more fluid than absolutely necessary, since I relied on a color change I drained more than it needed, just to be sure it was clean and new. If you first do a complete drain you will absolutely have to do a BUDS. The extra amount doing it this was no more than a few oz.. Un-like a lot of other reports, my fluid ( 4 yrs old and 40,000+ miles ) was not too dis-colored..... But new fluid is crystal clear, I used two glass containers during the draining process.....When it began to look clearer I switched to a clean container, which would show the draining results better. A slightly more complicated process but it gave me peace of mind good luck . Mike
I never changed the brakes because at 10k miles they look great. I was just saying things I would try thats all. And the Motul dot 4 brake fluid in it looks great and full.
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Yeah, I know, you definitely DO need to be careful doing that, maybe even stick to just ryding up & down your driveway a few times, but often when I've seen a brake warning code pop up after someone's changed the pads & gone on to make sure everything else is fine only to still have a brake warning pop up, it goes away after ryding it for a bit!! 
