Rough idle

[dpetrick]

I have a 2009 RS SE5 with 26,400 miles. Occasionally the idle bounces around and the bike does not want to take off from stop, it stumbles and finally the rpms pick up and it runs smoothly. First time this happened, dealer replaced the plugs and new BRP wires. Lasted about 500 miles and started the same thing. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced the wires, under part warranty, and replaced the plugs. Ran great for about 500 miles. Bike went into storage for the winter and when I took it in for spring service they replaced the plugs and it ran fine, until today, when it started running rough at idle again. Is there anything else I should have them look at? They checked the vacuum lines during spring service and checked the codes. Would Baja Rons plug wires help solve this problem? Once rpms pick up it runs great, then idle drops several hundred rpm, and bike hesitates on throttle and then takes off after stumbling for a bit. Problem goes away for a while, then pops up again, several days later. When it is running smoothly at idle it comes on and accelerates smoothly.

I cruise it at 5000 to 6000 rpm and shift in that range also. In town I run first gear up to 35 mph.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Easy Rider]

I cruise it at 5000 to 6000 rpm and shift in that range also. In town I run first gear up to 35 mph.

Thanks for any suggestions.

There is no NEED to ride it that hard.......unless you have a need.

Have you put any "fuel system cleaner" in with the gas during this whole time ?
If not, maybe you should.

I think rough idle is the primary symptom of a plugged evaporative emission system.
Are you in the habit of filling the gas tank REALLY full ??

[Culpjp]

There is no NEED to ride it that hard.......unless you have a need.

The 998's love to be ran at those RPM's and you can actually wear the clutch out prematurely by running it at too low of RPM's.

[dpetrick]

I regularly use Seafoam in the fuel, and am careful not to overfill the tank. The engine runs the smoothest in the 5-6000 range.

[Web Runner]

I have a 2009 RS SE5 with 26,400 miles. Occasionally the idle bounces around and the bike does not want to take off from stop, it stumbles and finally the rpms pick up and it runs smoothly. First time this happened, dealer replaced the plugs and new BRP wires. Lasted about 500 miles and started the same thing. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced the wires, under part warranty, and replaced the plugs. Ran great for about 500 miles. Bike went into storage for the winter and when I took it in for spring service they replaced the plugs and it ran fine, until today, when it started running rough at idle again. Is there anything else I should have them look at? They checked the vacuum lines during spring service and checked the codes. Would Baja Rons plug wires help solve this problem? Once rpms pick up it runs great, then idle drops several hundred rpm, and bike hesitates on throttle and then takes off after stumbling for a bit. Problem goes away for a while, then pops up again, several days later. When it is running smoothly at idle it comes on and accelerates smoothly.

I cruise it at 5000 to 6000 rpm and shift in that range also. In town I run first gear up to 35 mph.

Thanks for any suggestions.

I have a 2010 RS SE5. First, if I am wrong about my advice someone please correct me. It sounds like it could be the vacuum lines on the left side of the throttle body. The best way to check them is to flex the hose and look for cracking as it flexes. Since you have had plugs and wires replaced, it could be that you might have a bad ground connection for the spark plug coils. There should be a black wire that connects the coils to the chassis on the left side. If you remove the left panel (like when checking the oil level) you should see the coils and the ground wire. There is also something else that might cause something like this to happen, and that is the purge valve on the right side of the bike. However, I would ask someone else to chime in on that suggestion.
I use BajaRon's plugs and wires and have not had any issues there. I would not hesitate to replace the factory plugs and wires with his product. Make sure you use heatsink compound (not anti-sieze paste) on the sparkplug threads if you do.
I also cruise at 5000 to 6000 rpm and also shift within those points. Bike seems most happy in that range.

[PistonBlown]

Some good answers here already so I'll try not to repeat those.

Two extra things do come to mind.

• Fuel Filter, has it ever been replaced? Though normally that would be more of an issue at higher revs under load.
• Air Filter - there was a thread recently about someone finding fibre glass insulation in their air box, another person mentioned they had the same thing and it turned out some rodent had been nesting in there. Unlikely but it you are looking around it may be worth checking

Agree with others replacing the wires with ones from Bajaron may still be worth doing. Firstly the stock wires are well known for failing as soon as they are touched/moved etc. Bajarons are far superior, if nothing else it would eliminate that as a cause.

PS

pre-2013 RS's love rev's so they can be slightly sluggish at low revs. A slightly uneven tick over is normal, my mechanic mate said he could hear they have a semi racing cam profile - I just take his word for it:-)

[Culpjp]

If you do a search on here for canisterectomy, you can find how to remove the evap canister, and bypass the purge valve.
Many people do that anyways even if they aren't having issues.

[BoilerAnimal]

I had the same symptoms as you with our Spyder. I replaced the plugs and wires with a set from Baja Ron and that helped a lot but didn't cure it completely. I checked the two vacuum hoses and they looked fine but decided to change them anyway.

When I got them off they still looked fine until I twisted the bends in opposite directions of their normal position, when they were covered in a spider web of cracks. I put new hoses on that I cut from silicone hose I bought from NAPA and that cured my problem entirely. It now runs like it should, with a smooth throttle response from idle to as fast as I care to go.

The vacuum hose replacement would be an easy and cheap thing to see if it works for you. Good luck, Bob.

[Chupaca]

The boots that connect the throttle body to the cylinders can dry out with time and heat and develop carcks as well. Sometimes spraying WD40 around them and the vaccum line will change the idle speed and indicate they are in fact leaking.

20150726_160909.jpg they can look good 20150726_160929.jpg but then not so much

[dpetrick]

Ordered the plug wire set from Ron, should be here today or tomorrow. Will get them installed and vacuum lines replaced and see if this helps.

[Web Runner]

Ordered the plug wire set from Ron, should be here today or tomorrow. Will get them installed and vacuum lines replaced and see if this helps.

Use silicon tubing when replacing the vacuum lines on the throttle body. The length of each hose is critical. Make sure the replacement tubing is the exact length of the original. The tubing must have an internal diameter of 3mm. I think Napa sells the tubing under part number H466.

Best of luck!

Here is a link to a post about this topic.
And, another.

[Easy Rider]

The length of each hose is critical. Make sure the replacement tubing is the exact length of the original. The tubing must have an internal diameter of 3mm.

I'm a bit skeptical about those claims. More than a bit, actually.

Why do you think that the exact length or ID of the tube makes any difference ??

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I'm a bit skeptical about those claims. More than a bit, actually.

Why do you think that the exact length or ID of the tube makes any difference ??

Hi ER. Because that caution comes right out of the shop manual. The hoses feed manifold vacuum to the MAP sensor. The specified length for the hoses is 85mm to maintain calibration of the sensor. The ID is simply the correct ID for the hose connections on the sensor and the manifold. Smaller and they won't go on, bigger and they'll fall off.

[Easy Rider]

Because that caution comes right out of the shop manual.

Check.

[jayallday01]

The boots that connect the throttle body to the cylinders can dry out with time and heat and develop carcks as well. Sometimes spraying WD40 around them and the vaccum line will change the idle speed and indicate they are in fact leaking.

20150726_160909.jpg they can look good 20150726_160929.jpg but then not so much

Can you please provide the size of hose needed as a replacement? Thank you.

[dpetrick]

Have an appointment Thursday to get wires and plugs installed, also having vacuum hoses replaced.

[BoilerAnimal]

Can you please provide the size of hose needed as a replacement? Thank you.

3 mm ID x 85 mm long.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH466

[dpetrick]

Just got back from Jaycox Powersports, where I had the Baja Ron plug wires and plug set installed. Also had them replace the vacuum lines. Spyder ran much better on the 40 mile ride home. Idle is stable and smoother, acceleration is smoother and the engine runs smoother at highway speeds. No more stumble when taking off. Jaycox had no problem installing parts I brought in. They have taken good care of me and my Spyder.

[Web Runner]

Just got back from Jaycox Powersports, where I had the Baja Ron plug wires and plug set installed. Also had them replace the vacuum lines. Spyder ran much better on the 40 mile ride home. Idle is stable and smoother, acceleration is smoother and the engine runs smoother at highway speeds. No more stumble when taking off. Jaycox had no problem installing parts I brought in. They have taken good care of me and my Spyder.

Glad to hear things went well.

[OlJim]

Just got back from Jaycox Powersports, where I had the Baja Ron plug wires and plug set installed. Also had them replace the vacuum lines. Spyder ran much better on the 40 mile ride home. Idle is stable and smoother, acceleration is smoother and the engine runs smoother at highway speeds. No more stumble when taking off. Jaycox had no problem installing parts I brought in. They have taken good care of me and my Spyder.

Same here, just installed Ron's plugs and wires on my 2011 RT along with a K&N air filter. Cured my problem of running on one cylinder part of the time. Actually seems to perform better than it did before the problems started.