Confused about rear axle nut torque.

[ronpoust]

Can anybody tell me what it is for sure for a 2013 rts. I been told 95ft/lb and 161ft/lb?

[Devious56]

Can anybody tell me what it is for sure for a 2013 rts. I been told 95ft/lb and 161ft/lb?

The owners manual on my 2015 RT is 155 to 177 lbf.

David

[Chupaca]

As stated in the other post...originally 96lbs and never saw or heard of any failings and almost doubling it seems overkill...BRP tech should explain...

[DGoebel]

123 N•m to 137 N•m (91 lbf•ft to 101 lbf•ft)

[trikermutha]

Its higher on the newer models as stated above

[Grandpot]

2011 RTS: 91 to 101 ft./lbs.

[Devious56]

123 N•m to 137 N•m (91 lbf•ft to 101 lbf•ft)

Thank you for posting that, I thought it might be higher but only have a manual for the 15 RT.

David

[Peteoz]

Yeah, if you are going to buy a late model and want to remove the rear wheel, make sure you have a 30 foot long breaker bar for the 160ft lbs...

Pete

[DGoebel]

The OP ronpoust stated he had a 2013 RTS, same torque value for the whole RT line in the '13 Owners and Green Manual. Just saying,

[AY4B]

My service manual says 161 Ft pounds. I went and bought one of those 2 foot long gorilla torque wrenches.

[Peteoz]

The OP ronpoust stated he had a 2013 RTS, same torque value for the whole RT line in the '13 Owners and Green Manual. Just saying,

.....not quite sure what you are saying there, David? Looks like it changed to 160ftlbs in 2014.

Pete

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

123 N•m to 137 N•m (91 lbf•ft to 101 lbf•ft)

There's a conflict between the owner's manual and the service manual. I see the owner's manual has what you show. However, the service manual for both the 2013 and 2014 RT series lists 166 ft-lbs. I'd be inclined to go with the service manual as it probably was edited more carefully than the owner's manual.

[SPYD3R]

having built a bizillion jet engines, i'm a TORQUE FREAK....
i had my rear tire R&R, and when i got home, i put a torque wrench on my rear axle nut to see what it was torqued at... 31 foot pounds...
i was furious... i called the Service Manager to register my complaint... he was EXCELLENT... told me to 'slowly' ride it back (10 miles), and he'd take care of it personally.... a few weeks later, i was back at the dealer for something else, and the mechanic that replaced my tire was no longer employed there...
i can't tell you people how important it is to RE-CHECK all repairs & replacements as best you can...
Dan P
SPYD3R

[trikerbiker645]

Spyder3R, I hear you, sad thing is if you have to go over everything that you asked to have done, just do it yourself and save your money. I'm lucky I can do that as I was a tech for 28 yrs but a lot of people have to trust their dealer which is generally in my case and opinion from warranty work i've had done not going to work in your favor. A lot of motorcycle techs don't even want to work on a Spyder and for the most part don't have a clue how to repair them, even if they supposedly have been trained by Can Am. I've had to either take my trike back to have repair redone or take back for something they broke while doing the repair. 3 different repairs and 3 times back and not for serious problems. Belt adjustments. Speedo/tach cluster replacement, side trunk inner liner replacement. Plus new scratch's and fingerprints everywhere. Have given up on that dealer. Safe riding!

[DGoebel]

.....not quite sure what you are saying there, David? Looks like it changed to 160ftlbs in 2014.

Pete

Pete, I get that 2014's and later (Let's call them 2nd Gen spyders) use a different Torque, but the Original Poster asking the question, was asking a question about a 2013 (First Gen spyder), and I have the original Paper Owner's Manual that came with my 2013 RTL, I have the digital Owner's manual that Can-Am released for the 2013 models, AND I bought (apparently an earlier now outdated service manual) that all three use the numbers I was giving ronpoust the OP who asked "Confused about rear axle nut torque.


Can anybody tell me what it is for sure for a 2013 rts...." I was just using the printed and digital information that I got from BRP that said for All 2013 RT series, the rear axle torque was the lower range.

IdahoMtnSpyder must have an updated / corrected service manual that I didn't get so I do stand corrected, though all my (OLD) 2013 Manuals say's erroneously different.

While typing this I went and bought the online BestShopManuals@gmail.com Green Manual Service manual and it does say the higher spec. Going out to recheck my back axle now I gotta go buy a bigger torque wrench too..... arrrrrrggghhhhh

The latest publication rmr2013-032 Drive Belt and Rear Wheel Subsection Page 5 I just bought does say the 166 ftlbs...

I get it 166 ft lbs, ignore the lower value in the older docs. I too spent 20 years in the USAF and remember many a time when specs were modified long after the item was in use.... Thanks to EVERYONE above who quoted the correct 166 ft lbs even for 2013's.
Heading to my garage now....

[Peteoz]

I get it 166 ft lbs, ignore the lower value in the older docs. I too spent 20 years in the USAF and remember many a time when specs were modified long after the item was in use.... Thanks to EVERYONE above who quoted the correct 166 ft lbs even for 2013's.
Heading to my garage now....

Ahhhhhhh. Gotcha David......sorry, I'm a bit slow

.....better buy a set of dumbbells to go with your breaker bar though. I used a 3/4" torque wrench with a 2' arm and still had trouble getting past 150ftlbs. Luckily, that's enough with the +/- 10%...

Pete

[trikermutha]

The torque wrench from Lowes works well and don't need a giant bar to tighten to the higher value. Maybe a bit more effort

[KX5062]

166 ft/lbs is insane for this application. I'm sorry, but I have to wonder if they put such a high torque value as to discourage home mechanics rather than a mechanical necessity.

[ronpoust]

I retorqued axle nut from 100 ft/lb to 160 ft/lb. That is scary tight for a hollow axle, I was waiting for the pop but it held. the belt alignment stayed OK. Just ride it now and see what happens. Thank you everybody who took time to help

[Jeriatric]

I retorqued axle nut from 100 ft/lb to 160 ft/lb. That is scary tight for a hollow axle, I was waiting for the pop but it held. the belt alignment stayed OK. Just ride it now and see what happens. Thank you everybody who took time to help

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

166 ft/lbs is insane for this application. I'm sorry, but I have to wonder if they put such a high torque value as to discourage home mechanics rather than a mechanical necessity.

Keep in mind the torque required to get the desired axial force on the shaft or bolt is proportional to the diameter. I don't know the numbers but think of it in terms of 166 ft-lbs on a 1" bolt giving the same axial tightness as 20 ft-lbs on a 3/8" diameter bolt. But I agree, 166 does seem to an awfully high number. What we need is a torque value for lubricated threads. That would far less than for dry threads and easier to achieve. And with the fine threads I don't believe there would be any concern about the nut working loose.

[Firefly]

I've always gone with 120, thought that was the apex from way back. Never had a problem at 120 on my GS or RT. One scary thing is on the F3's they don't have a hole for a cotter pin.

[PMK]

Keep in mind the torque required to get the desired axial force on the shaft or bolt is proportional to the diameter. I don't know the numbers but think of it in terms of 166 ft-lbs on a 1" bolt giving the same axial tightness as 20 ft-lbs on a 3/8" diameter bolt. But I agree, 166 does seem to an awfully high number. What we need is a torque value for lubricated threads. That would far less than for dry threads and easier to achieve. And with the fine threads I don't believe there would be any concern about the nut working loose.

I always wet torque the rear axle and have since early 2014. Since I do not want to debate the value or have someone try it and fail, I will not share the value or process I use.

As for 166lbft, my opinion is the BS cheap cast axle adjuster that will crush over time. A very poor design on their own and possibly the worst adjusters I have ever worked with.

[papanorm]

There's definitely a cotter pin on my F3 rear axle

[PMK]

There's definitely a cotter pin on my F3 rear axle

Probably like an RT, cotter key but no castle nut.

The entire setup can come loose, just not start dropping parts to the pavement.