Multiple Error Codes

[Stephenaspr]

On a recent trip, my 2011 RSS SE5 stalled at an intersection and brought up the following on the dash, VSS Fault and Check DPS, & VSS fault dash pilot light and when trying to restart it the idling was very erratic - between 2,100 and 6,500rpm. The Spyder could not be moved (unable to engage transmission) so was pushed a few hundred yards to the nearest premises where it was left overnight.
The next morning, it started normally and was ridden into town, once again stalling with the same messages / light when I slowed down, a half hour later when it was able to be started normally with a normal 1,400rpm, I headed off again only to have it stall when I slowed down for road works.
Two hours later it started normally again and I was able to get it to the motel where it stalled in the car park.
The Spyder was transported on a truck to the nearest dealer 320 miles away, and after 5 weeks, I was told it was repaired.
I flew down from my home town (935 miles away) to retrieve it and then proceeded back towards home, only to get 100 miles before it stalled yet again with the same error messages / VSS fault dash light.
One and a half hours later when it had cooled down, I was able to start it with a normal idle speed and ride it back into a town, where it again stalled on slowing down and with further error messages, ABS Fault, VSS Fault & EBD Fault, and upon restarting it, an erratic idling speed.
It was again transported back to the same dealer who yesterday advised that the following error codes were retrieved by BUDS - P0600,U0126, U1101, U1150 & U1160, but they were unable to find any fault but further checking was to be undertaken.
All of the U codes seem to refer to damaged wires or pins in relation to the VCM and the P code a fuse (checked & good) or damaged wires or ECM pin fault.

Has anyone else had the above error codes / messages appear and what was the fault.
This dealer at 935 miles away from home is the nearest dealer to me, I would appreciate some idea of the problem so that I do not have to keep flying / bussing it to them and return.

[LeftCoast]

Good lord what a nightmare! Best of luck to you. I was last in Alice about 35 years ago, can’t imagine what it’s like now. Sorry I have no advice to give.

[loisk]

Maybe Peter from Adelaide Hills will chime in with ideas and/or contacts. I know there are a couple of non brp spyder service places in SA, with good reputations

Good luck

[youngers]

again , another o-m-g period ! man sorry for your troubles in spyder rides ! brother , have you added any other things to your spyder , like after market lights ( possibly made right from china ? any thing no matter how small ... ) I remember a video from a good guy , " shawn smok " with pro caliber < he did a video on almost the same problem , or close to it and was cause by the added rear lighting that was added ,the lights used cause a computer clitch in the wiring , ( he explains it pretty good why it went into shut down mode ) , not blaming you , just giving you some insight as too what might be going on ! ( either this or you have a wire harness that has moved around in the Tupperware division , and is grounding out on the frame ) have you thought of towing it back too your place and taken it apart and doing the work yourself?

[Snowbelt Spyder]

After 5 weeks at the dealers, I hate to come on here and suggest simple stuff. But in the vast majority of cases, when a gaggle of U codes pops up, it’s a voltage issue. They are typically resolved by finding a bad power or ground connection at the battery or under the seat. And on more than a few occasions, a battery replacement is the solution if it has any age to it, or it prematurely fails, or has some internal fault happening...possibly due to heat.

Your machine runs ok until the underbody temperatures come up. If you had a damaged harness or connector, I don’t think that would occur. What’s also a common thread is that it stalls when slowing down - exactly when the charging voltage drops off. I know you don’t want to waste money just throwing parts at it, but I’d ask them to replace the battery and ride it for an hour, get it good and hot, and see what happens.

[Peter Aawen]

Maybe Peter from Adelaide Hills will chime in with ideas and/or contacts. I know there are a couple of non brp spyder service places in SA, with good reputations

Good luck

I sent him some names & contact details via PM.

[Highwayman2013]

After 5 weeks at the dealers, I hate to come on here and suggest simple stuff. But in the vast majority of cases, when a gaggle of U codes pops up, it’s a voltage issue. They are typically resolved by finding a bad power or ground connection at the battery or under the seat. And on more than a few occasions, a battery replacement is the solution if it has any age to it, or it prematurely fails, or has some internal fault happening...possibly due to heat.

Your machine runs ok until the underbody temperatures come up. If you had a damaged harness or connector, I don’t think that would occur. What’s also a common thread is that it stalls when slowing down - exactly when the charging voltage drops off. I know you don’t want to waste money just throwing parts at it, but I’d ask them to replace the battery and ride it for an hour, get it good and hot, and see what happens.

Yep, start wit the battery and connections then the charging system. Spark plug wires are known to fail. Fuel filter?

[SpyderAnn01]

again , another o-m-g period ! man sorry for your troubles in spyder rides ! brother , have you added any other things to your spyder , like after market lights ( possibly made right from china ? any thing no matter how small ... ) I remember a video from a good guy , " shawn smok " with pro caliber < he did a video on almost the same problem , or close to it and was cause by the added rear lighting that was added ,the lights used cause a computer clitch in the wiring , ( he explains it pretty good why it went into shut down mode ) , not blaming you , just giving you some insight as too what might be going on ! ( either this or you have a wire harness that has moved around in the Tupperware division , and is grounding out on the frame ) have you thought of towing it back too your place and taken it apart and doing the work yourself?

That video you are referring to was grossly incorrect, Sean had two Spyders confused and blamed a high quality Custom Dynamics High Mount Brake light on troubles my friend had with her Spyder when in fact she had bad vacuum lines, which he failed to diagnose. Don’t believe everything you see on the internet.

[spyderCodes]

On a recent trip, my 2011 RSS SE5 stalled at an intersection and brought up the following on the dash, VSS Fault and Check DPS, & VSS fault dash pilot light and when trying to restart it the idling was very erratic - between 2,100 and 6,500rpm. The Spyder could not be moved (unable to engage transmission) so was pushed a few hundred yards to the nearest premises where it was left overnight.
The next morning, it started normally and was ridden into town, once again stalling with the same messages / light when I slowed down, a half hour later when it was able to be started normally with a normal 1,400rpm, I headed off again only to have it stall when I slowed down for road works.
Two hours later it started normally again and I was able to get it to the motel where it stalled in the car park.
The Spyder was transported on a truck to the nearest dealer 320 miles away, and after 5 weeks, I was told it was repaired.
I flew down from my home town (935 miles away) to retrieve it and then proceeded back towards home, only to get 100 miles before it stalled yet again with the same error messages / VSS fault dash light.
One and a half hours later when it had cooled down, I was able to start it with a normal idle speed and ride it back into a town, where it again stalled on slowing down and with further error messages, ABS Fault, VSS Fault & EBD Fault, and upon restarting it, an erratic idling speed.
It was again transported back to the same dealer who yesterday advised that the following error codes were retrieved by BUDS - P0600,U0126, U1101, U1150 & U1160, but they were unable to find any fault but further checking was to be undertaken.
All of the U codes seem to refer to damaged wires or pins in relation to the VCM and the P code a fuse (checked & good) or damaged wires or ECM pin fault.

Has anyone else had the above error codes / messages appear and what was the fault.
This dealer at 935 miles away from home is the nearest dealer to me, I would appreciate some idea of the problem so that I do not have to keep flying / bussing it to them and return.

Error codes tend to cascade.
One bad bit of info placed on the bus causes other codes to be generated.
If I had to guess I would say you have either a crushed wire bundle or a bad connector.
The expensive part of the fix will be tracking the wires or connector down.

[Stephenaspr]

Four months later it is still at the dealers and they are still trying to find the fault.
Not very impressed at this stage.
I have contacted BRP Australia twice, once after the first week describing the faults and was told to take it to your local dealer who have the trained technicians to rectify the fault, and again a few weeks ago expressing my concern over the amount of time that one of their dealers was taking to rectify the problem, there has been no response to this email.

[youngers]

That video you are referring to was grossly incorrect, Sean had two Spyders confused and blamed a high quality Custom Dynamics High Mount Brake light on troubles my friend had with her Spyder when in fact she had bad vacuum lines, which he failed to diagnose. Don’t believe everything you see on the internet.

did not know it went into the vacuum lines , (was pretty convincing about the wiring though ) ! thanks for putting me straight ! -------> I can still believe there is a big foot running in that area though right ? ( I also seen the footage on the internet ! )

[youngers]

After 5 weeks at the dealers, I hate to come on here and suggest simple stuff. But in the vast majority of cases, when a gaggle of U codes pops up, it’s a voltage issue. They are typically resolved by finding a bad power or ground connection at the battery or under the seat. And on more than a few occasions, a battery replacement is the solution if it has any age to it, or it prematurely fails, or has some internal fault happening...possibly due to heat.

Your machine runs ok until the underbody temperatures come up. If you had a damaged harness or connector, I don’t think that would occur. What’s also a common thread is that it stalls when slowing down - exactly when the charging voltage drops off. I know you don’t want to waste money just throwing parts at it, but I’d ask them to replace the battery and ride it for an hour, get it good and hot, and see what happens.

------- wonder if the temp sensor, under the front light vents , could be bad ? or never placed in the correct spot ? ( good idea from snowbelt )

[Stephenaspr]

After 5 months, I have been informed that the error has been resolved.
Despite the multiple error codes recorded in BUDS, evidently the problem was a faulty spark plug lead.
When the engine was hot, there was a split in one of the spark plug caps which was causing a short between the lead and the cylinder head (inside the cyl head spark plug cavity).
I am not convinced that this was the sole problem as the bike started up straight away after stalling at low speeds, although with a higher rpm.
The higher idle rpm was explained by the dealership to be a charging system fault (not to specifications), and the engine was compensating o achieve the correct charging rate.
I will see how it goes when I fly down to pick up the bike next Thursday and see if it gets me the 1,500+ kms back home.

PS The bike got me home without any problems.