28,000 mile maintenance questions.

[Fatcycledaddy]

Just got back from this years two week trip and now have 30,000 miles on the 2015 RTL SE6.
I see on the 28,000 mile maintenance schedule that a coolant change, spark plugs, canister pre-filter change, front suspension rubber bushings, and the HCM. I had the HCM changed at the last oil change at 26,000, so I am okay on that.
Changing brake fluid is not hard and the pre-canister look rather easy.
Coolant looks like new, so what makes it necessary to change it? It is costly to do it and looks relatively easy, but what makes it necessary?
How hard is it to change the spark plugs?
I feel no slop in the wheels side to side or up and down, so what am I looking for on the front suspension bushings?

[almosthere]

I too have a 2015 RT-S, yellow , and I have 28600 miles. I am going to Wisconsin Dealer (Rob's Performance Motor Sports) tomorrow for the recommended maintenance and yes it is estimated to cost 1500.00. ouch But I am not a gear head so leaving it to a shop I trust.

[JayBros]

The additives in the antifreeze become depleted over time and it is worth the cost, IMO, give the expensive aluminum engine and cooling system the fresh jolt called for in the maintenance schedule. My dealer charged $89 for the labor plus the coolant. I was also shown a short cut to save time when I do the 56K coolant change myself.

[KX5062]

The 1330 do use Iridium tipped plugs and they recommend changing them at a crazy early mileage. HOWEVER, I pushed mine to almost 40k miles and there was a noticeable degradation in performance. When I pulled the originals they were noticeably worn. Once replaced with new ones it was right as rain.

Motorcycle type engines are hard on spark plugs because they push the performance envelope all the while maintaining crazy lean emissions standards. So to me it makes sense to just get it all done at one big service, since you're in there anyway.

Replacing the spark plugs is a PITA, but is completely doable for the shade tree mechanic. The only thing that is not mentioned is getting through the air box. It comes apart in place and then is reassembled in place. IIRC, you twist off the intake snorkel and that allows you to separate the body into two separate halves. After that it's easy.

[Fatcycledaddy]

The additives in the antifreeze become depleted over time and it is worth the cost, IMO, give the expensive aluminum engine and cooling system the fresh jolt called for in the maintenance schedule. My dealer charged $89 for the labor plus the coolant. I was also shown a short cut to save time when I do the 56K coolant change myself.

Good point, just because the coolant looks good doesn't mean the additives are not depleted. I didn't think about that.

The 1330 do use Iridium tipped plugs and they recommend changing them at a crazy early mileage. HOWEVER, I pushed mine to almost 40k miles and there was a noticeable degradation in performance. When I pulled the originals they were noticeably worn. Once replaced with new ones it was right as rain.

Motorcycle type engines are hard on spark plugs because they push the performance envelope all the while maintaining crazy lean emissions standards. So to me it makes sense to just get it all done at one big service, since you're in there anyway.

Replacing the spark plugs is a PITA, but is completely doable for the shade tree mechanic. The only thing that is not mentioned is getting through the air box. It comes apart in place and then is reassembled in place. IIRC, you twist off the intake snorkel and that allows you to separate the body into two separate halves. After that it's easy.

I noticed that mine seems to flutter every now and then when idling, not bad but I can detect it. I will change them at the end of the riding season.

Thanks for the input.

Anyone have any comments about the front suspension rubber bushings and what to look for?

[Fat Baxter]

I just had the 28K service done on my 2014 RT-S. Cost me about $750. The bike does feel a bit peppier.

[tehrlich]

I just had my 28K service completed this week. $1300. Can't believe how much it costs. My dealer has a maintenance program that is put in at the time of purchase. Those things never really work out, but in this instance it did. I think my maintenances actually cost me about 1/2, but if you're not making the miles, you lose it. I was 2 days before expiration for this big one!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Good point, just because the coolant looks good doesn't mean the additives are not depleted. I didn't think about that.

Anyone have any comments about the front suspension rubber bushings and what to look for?

The maintenance schedule for my 2014 RTS just says to inspect the bushings. What to look for? I guess anything that looks weird. Those will probably never be a problem until very high mileage or many years.

Anyone know off hand what size the hose clamp needs to be for the radiator hoses? If not I'll just measure it before I drain the coolant. The parts list just gives a part #, not size. A regular screw hose clamp will be easier to install than the OEM Oeticker clamp.

As far as changing spark plugs the easiest approach is to remove the frunk. I'll be doing that to install the LED bulbs in the fog lights at the same time.

[Fatcycledaddy]

As far as changing spark plugs the easiest approach is to remove the frunk. I'll be doing that to install the LED bulbs in the fog lights at the same time.

I have had all the other tupperware off of the bike, but never removed the frunk. Sounds like a scary proposition but I am will int to try.

[KX5062]

It's not that hard. 6? 10mm bolts. 4 on top and 2 on the bottom. Just make sure the wiring and the air intake snorkel are disconnected and then lift. It's all plastic and not heavy. It's just awkward, especially reinstalling the snorkel. I find a little help from a second set of hands is very helpful, but not essential.