wobble at high speed and curves

[aka1004]

I picked up 2015 RS with 700 miles and with fox shocks and stock swaybar. it turns well at low to medium speed but not so steady at 50 mph and higher curves. Spyder wants to slide inside(kinda oversteer?) then stops sliding and repeat. if it continues to slide inside, it won't be so bad but its like Spyder is stutter-sliding. also, its a bit wobbly at 70 mph + going straight.
front tires are at 15.5 pounds(manual says 15, they were at 18 but got better at 15.5) and fox shocks settings are identical on both side, 4 threads up from bottom.
could it be that fox shocks pre-load is too soft, too hard or alignment is off?
thank you in advance.

[Easy Rider]

but its like Spyder is stutter-sliding. also, its a bit wobbly at 70 mph + going straight.

Might be two things that need attention.

I'd do alignment first.
I like this explanation:
http://www.lindsayroland.com/spyder/spyderwheels.html
And I am presently trying to get the "mechanic" at my dealership to understand it and DO what it says. SIGH.

Then you might want the stiffer sway bar if cornering is still a problem.

I believe that both these situations are VERY common complaints for most all Spyder models.
I "got over" the cornering problem with some experience.....and I don't corner hard.....but still had the twitchy feeling at speed.

[canamjhb]

Classic symptoms of tire tread seperation. If you are still running the OEM Kenda tires, that is the first place I would look.....

[BajaRon]

Might be two things that need attention.

I'd do alignment first.
I like this explanation:
http://www.lindsayroland.com/spyder/spyderwheels.html
And I am presently trying to get the "mechanic" at my dealership to understand it and DO what it says. SIGH.

Then you might want the stiffer sway bar if cornering is still a problem.

I believe that both these situations are VERY common complaints for most all Spyder models.
I "got over" the cornering problem with some experience.....and I don't corner hard.....but still had the twitchy feeling at speed.

I would be very concerned about getting a good job done if I had to twist my dealer's arm. The ROLO system isn't magic. You still need a competent tech to end up with a good job. Better to find someone (if possible) that does this all the time.

But I agree with the answer to this OP's question being alignment and possible cord separation on a tire or 2. These would be the best ideas to start with.

[aka1004]

Thank you and what are obvious visible sign of cord separation? With emphasis on obvious, as I’ve not even heard of term tire cord separation till this morning.
I guess even the brand new products can have defects but Spyder only has 700 miles on it. Hopefully it’s just alignment which I was gonna do anyway.

[canamjhb]

Thank you and what are obvious sign of cord separation? With emphasis on obvious, as I’ve not even heard of term tire cord separation till this morning.

I have experienced tire cord seperation on two different vehicles. First was a Shinko radial tire on my Goldwing and second was Kenda tires on my Spyder. Both times the tire failure could not be seen by my untrained eye. The tires LOOKED good and had good tread. The only way I was able to determine what was happening was by the way the tire reacted when riding. A tire that wobbles and does not track correctly probably has internal seperation. Perhaps an experienced tire expert can advise you how to better detect cord seperation. Good luck.....

[Warlock]

I picked up 2015 RS with 700 miles and with fox shocks and stock swaybar. it turns well at low to medium speed but not so steady at 50 mph and higher curves. Spyder wants to slide inside(kinda oversteer?) then stops sliding and repeat. if it continues to slide inside, it won't be so bad but its like Spyder is stutter-sliding. also, its a bit wobbly at 70 mph + going straight.
front tires are at 15.5 pounds(manual says 15, they were at 18 but got better at 15.5) and fox shocks settings are identical on both side, 4 threads up from bottom.
could it be that fox shocks pre-load is too soft, too hard or alignment is off?
thank you in advance.

Mine was doing it on my 08 GS Spyder. Thought it was my shocks, but turned out to be the rear tire. I was running a cheap car tire and man the rear end would dance every where. Installed the Yokohama S drive and problem was solved. I'm running 16 lbs in the Yokohama and very happy with it.
David

[Malathion]

It sounds like you may be coasting in the curves and bends, slam her down a gear or two and hit the throttle. One must not attempt to drive a spider, one must ryde it!

[aka1004]

It sounds like you may be coasting in the curves and bends, slam her down a gear or two and hit the throttle. One must not attempt to drive a spider, one must ryde it!

This happens at high speed, 60-75mph on freeway curves not some mountain roads and feels different from when I let go of throttle.

[Easy Rider]

This happens at high speed, 60-75mph on freeway curves not some mountain roads and feels different from when I let go of throttle.

Might be alignment.
Might be sway bar.
Might be soft tires.
Low tire pressure might even be a factor.

BUT......
Riding techniques can also play a bit part......really.

Head up, look down the road and THROUGH the curve. Do not look at the pavement in front of your wheels. Do NOT look at the edge of the pavement or the other lane. Even though your main focus is down the road, your eyes and brain still "see" where you are on the road.

Don't anticipate the turn. Start near the inside and don't consciously make any effort to turn until you start nearing the outside edge of your lane.
Eventually you should find that making the turn will just happen without any real conscious effort on your part. (This works even better on 2 wheels.)

Try those techniques before you spend any money that might not be necessary.

[stmike 1800]

We have bad highways in my area ,but even the wife said the bike is like a teeter totter . Only it is from side to side not front to back. I have 3500 km on my 2018 RTL ,and on some roads it is a hand full .

[ARtraveler]

It sounds like you may be coasting in the curves and bends, slam her down a gear or two and hit the throttle. One must not attempt to drive a spider, one must ryde it!

Just don't overdrive your abilities. If you are crossing the yellow line--to fast for now.

[canamjhb]

I don't think a Spyder that wobbles while going straight and stutter-slides in corners have much to do with the OPs riding technique. I experienced both problems the OP described except my bike was scary dangerous above 65mph. I inherited these problems when I bought the bike. Rode like this for a few thousand miles thinking maybe it was "just me". Tried all kinds of adjustments on the shocks, put the OEM shocks back on, added centramatic wheel balancers, had the bike squared away, and put the Elka shocks back on. When I replaced the tires (all three) with CTs and got rid of the Kendas for good the bike finally handled like it should. I know a lot of people give good advice about riding techniques and I have been the beneficiary many times. But, I think the description the OP gives speaks to problems beyond riding technique.

[Jeffmal]

I don't think a Spyder that wobbles while going straight and stutter-slides in corners have much to do with the OPs riding technique. I experienced both problems the OP described except my bike was scary dangerous above 65mph. I inherited these problems when I bought the bike. Rode like this for a few thousand miles thinking maybe it was "just me". Tried all kinds of adjustments on the shocks, put the OEM shocks back on, added centramatic wheel balancers, had the bike squared away, and put the Elka shocks back on. When I replaced the tires (all three) with CTs and got rid of the Kendas for good the bike finally handled like it should. I know a lot of people give good advice about riding techniques and I have been the beneficiary many times. But, I think the description the OP gives speaks to problems beyond riding technique.

I totally agree with this post! I have experienced the same sensations over 65mph and it just wasn't normal.
Of course, it was slightly less freaky as you TRY to get used to it. The bottom line was after going through adding sway bar,
lazer alignment etc..., etc... I discovered I had a bad set of stock Kendas ( shocking, I know). Had my tires changed under warranty and guess what...
still a little squirrely but live-able. I won't settle for live-able so I just ordered some nice ct and I Expect to experience a big difference.
Check your tires! Good Luck!!

[Easy Rider]

But, I think the description the OP gives speaks to problems beyond riding technique.

Maybe but maybe not too. I guess I've seem a lot more "unskilled" riders than you have.
And it is hard to get an accurate picture of the situation without actually being there.

So....what would your advice be then, run out and buy a new set of tires......without giving any thought to your riding technique at all ??
Or to the alignment being off a bit ??

It seems to me like the overwhelming majority of new owners who report in here say that during the first few hundred miles of riding most of their "problems" go away......without spending any money on guessing at parts.

[Easy Rider]

I just ordered some nice ct and I Expect to experience a big difference.

Please report back with the results.

[aka1004]

Thank you for your inputs and I will do the things I was gonna do anyway, stiffen shocks, alignment, anti-sway bar and see what happens and I do understand that newbies to spyderlovers can not know that I’ve put 40k miles on 1st Spyder. 😂
I’ve always had aftermarket anti-sway bar so it may feel squirrelly without it too.

[Easy Rider]

I do understand that newbies to spyderlovers can not know that I’ve put 40k miles on 1st Spyder. 😂

Others "can not know" that either.
After sifting through HUNDREDS of posts a week, the details become kind of blurred.

Anything significant to a "new" discussion needs to be included.......again.