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Active Member
Standard maintenance question.
This week I am changing the brake pads on my 2014 RT for the first time (not bad for 15k miles of 2 up riding with a trailer).
Is there anything I should be checking on the RT while I have it up on jacks? Dealer put some lube on the belt during the last check awhile ago.
Thanks...
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Very Active Member
EASY
it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...
on a flat surface, make sure your E-Brake is on, make CERTAIN your SPYD3R is stable once up in the air (do 1 side @ a time 2 b safe)... remove 1 wheel and take a picture of your Caliper prior to dismantling (or use mine, below), make sure you open the cap of the Master Cylinder, put a rag under the Master to catch any fluid that may drip out... remove 2 15mm bolts holding Caliper, with an old coat hanger, make a hook to hold Caliper from pulling on the brake line... remove small Clip from Cross-Bolt, put clip in a container - otherwise, these little things grow wings and fly off, never to be seen again... un-srcew Cross-Bolt, remove Clip, remove Pads, press 4 Pistons back into the Caliper (no tools required here, hand pressure is all you'll need).... clean the Caliper, insert new PADS, install Clip, insert Cross-Bolt and screw it back in, put the Fly-a-Way Clip back onto the Cross-Bolt, align Caliper with mounting holes and Rotor... re-insert 2 15mm bolts, tighten and re-install the wheel... repeat on opposite side... return to the Master Cylinder and check the fluid level, add if required... re-install the cap, making sure it's tight... mount your SPYD3R and depress the brake pedal until it's firm... clean up the surrounding area, and go for a short/slow ride, pressing the brake pedal as you go... you should know if your efforts are successful within 100 ft... re-check Brake Fluid upon your return... you should check Brake Fluids periodically afterwards...
hope this helps... good luck and enjoy your ride...
20180615_104234.jpg
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Originally Posted by SPYD3R
it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...
At 4 years and 15K miles, would you not also recommend fresh fluid ??
I think I would.
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Active Member
Okey dokey, seems easy enough. I've done lots of car brakes so should be no issues.
Is there anything else to look at while I have it on jacks with the wheels off?
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cant hurt to check your ball joints etc while your in that area. Check for shock leaks etc
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...
on a flat surface, make sure your E-Brake is on, make CERTAIN your SPYD3R is stable once up in the air (do 1 side @ a time 2 b safe)... remove 1 wheel and take a picture of your Caliper prior to dismantling (or use mine, below), make sure you open the cap of the Master Cylinder, put a rag under the Master to catch any fluid that may drip out... remove 2 15mm bolts holding Caliper,
20180615_104234.jpg
Dan P
SPYD3R
Actually, you don't need to remove the front calipers! You can push the pistons back in with a screwdriver between the pads and rotor. It's easy to pull the pads out after you take the pin and spring out.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
After replacing the pads, you need to do the fluid flush and bleed. Don't do the job half way.
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Very Active Member
FRONT BRAKE PADS
Originally Posted by markyodo
Okey dokey, seems easy enough. I've done lots of car brakes so should be no issues.
Is there anything else to look at while I have it on jacks with the wheels off?
Well you might be surprised to find that you have lots of PAD material on the shoes ..... I checked mine at 36,000 mi. and they were still good ( for at least another 4,000 mi. )........... Sorry IMS, but NOT removing the caliper to do this job is risky, if the ROTOR DISC is gouged during the " push the piston back in with a screwdriver method " .... I think that will have a serious effect on the new PADS life ..... Sometimes saving 10 minutes can be very expensive ............JMHO .... Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
if the ROTOR DISC is gouged during the " push the piston back in with a screwdriver method " ....
I'll admit that could happen. I was a bit surprised at just how easily the pistons pushed back so I think the chance of gouging the rotor is pretty low if one is careful. All of life is balancing act of risk vs. consequence. IMO the risk is quite low and the consequence somewhat limited. But, to each his own!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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