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  1. #1
    Active Member markyodo's Avatar
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    Default Standard maintenance question.

    This week I am changing the brake pads on my 2014 RT for the first time (not bad for 15k miles of 2 up riding with a trailer).
    Is there anything I should be checking on the RT while I have it up on jacks? Dealer put some lube on the belt during the last check awhile ago.

    Thanks...
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default EASY

    it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...

    on a flat surface, make sure your E-Brake is on, make CERTAIN your SPYD3R is stable once up in the air (do 1 side @ a time 2 b safe)... remove 1 wheel and take a picture of your Caliper prior to dismantling (or use mine, below), make sure you open the cap of the Master Cylinder, put a rag under the Master to catch any fluid that may drip out... remove 2 15mm bolts holding Caliper, with an old coat hanger, make a hook to hold Caliper from pulling on the brake line... remove small Clip from Cross-Bolt, put clip in a container - otherwise, these little things grow wings and fly off, never to be seen again... un-srcew Cross-Bolt, remove Clip, remove Pads, press 4 Pistons back into the Caliper (no tools required here, hand pressure is all you'll need).... clean the Caliper, insert new PADS, install Clip, insert Cross-Bolt and screw it back in, put the Fly-a-Way Clip back onto the Cross-Bolt, align Caliper with mounting holes and Rotor... re-insert 2 15mm bolts, tighten and re-install the wheel... repeat on opposite side... return to the Master Cylinder and check the fluid level, add if required... re-install the cap, making sure it's tight... mount your SPYD3R and depress the brake pedal until it's firm... clean up the surrounding area, and go for a short/slow ride, pressing the brake pedal as you go... you should know if your efforts are successful within 100 ft... re-check Brake Fluid upon your return... you should check Brake Fluids periodically afterwards...

    hope this helps... good luck and enjoy your ride...
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    Dan P
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...
    At 4 years and 15K miles, would you not also recommend fresh fluid ??
    I think I would.

  4. #4
    Active Member markyodo's Avatar
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    Default

    Okey dokey, seems easy enough. I've done lots of car brakes so should be no issues.
    Is there anything else to look at while I have it on jacks with the wheels off?
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  5. #5
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    Default

    cant hurt to check your ball joints etc while your in that area. Check for shock leaks etc

  6. #6
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    it's a rather easy job.... shouldn't be more than 20 minutes for each side... just did mine a couple days ago...

    on a flat surface, make sure your E-Brake is on, make CERTAIN your SPYD3R is stable once up in the air (do 1 side @ a time 2 b safe)... remove 1 wheel and take a picture of your Caliper prior to dismantling (or use mine, below), make sure you open the cap of the Master Cylinder, put a rag under the Master to catch any fluid that may drip out... remove 2 15mm bolts holding Caliper,
    20180615_104234.jpg
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    Actually, you don't need to remove the front calipers! You can push the pistons back in with a screwdriver between the pads and rotor. It's easy to pull the pads out after you take the pin and spring out.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  7. #7
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Default

    After replacing the pads, you need to do the fluid flush and bleed. Don't do the job half way.

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  8. #8
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    Default Anti-squeal?

    Changed the brakes on the 2008 GS, after a couple hundred miles started the usual SQUUUEEEAALLL in reverse especially. Don't you put some compound on the backside of the pads? I hosed mine down with brake-clean, lasted all of a day. Must be dust between calipers and the pads . But not gonna pull it apart again for that. I did that before the hip replacement. Can't do anything but wash it for a while now.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRONT BRAKE PADS

    Quote Originally Posted by markyodo View Post
    Okey dokey, seems easy enough. I've done lots of car brakes so should be no issues.
    Is there anything else to look at while I have it on jacks with the wheels off?
    Well you might be surprised to find that you have lots of PAD material on the shoes ..... I checked mine at 36,000 mi. and they were still good ( for at least another 4,000 mi. )........... Sorry IMS, but NOT removing the caliper to do this job is risky, if the ROTOR DISC is gouged during the " push the piston back in with a screwdriver method " .... I think that will have a serious effect on the new PADS life ..... Sometimes saving 10 minutes can be very expensive ............JMHO .... Mike

  10. #10
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    if the ROTOR DISC is gouged during the " push the piston back in with a screwdriver method " ....
    I'll admit that could happen. I was a bit surprised at just how easily the pistons pushed back so I think the chance of gouging the rotor is pretty low if one is careful. All of life is balancing act of risk vs. consequence. IMO the risk is quite low and the consequence somewhat limited. But, to each his own!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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