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  1. #1
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    Default Another Swaybar install question on F3T

    I don’t think I am going to have any issues with getting the bar out as I have a 14“ deep drainage well in my garage and will lift the bike over that so the bar will drop out easily enough without having to add any cribbing to my motorcycle lift.

    However looking at the bolt #9 and nut #6 that holds the sway bar in the channel frame it appears to me that I can’t get wrenches into that area without removing the splash guard? I have not yet lifted the bike to look from underneath when lifted but laying on the floor with a good light underneath the bike it does not seem there is any opening underneath the channel frame member. Is there a trick to this? I put a baja ron sway bar on my STS and it was relatively easy to get to the bolts holding the sway bar in but on the F3T it looks like it will be difficult to get wrenches into there to remove and replace the bolts?
    Last edited by Gcclubs; 06-16-2018 at 07:03 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Gsebring's Avatar
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    Default Sway bar

    The splash pan will need to be removed to make it easier. Did not take a couple of hours to complete the job

  3. #3
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    Default F3 Sway Bar Install

    There were two bolts holding the sway bar in and two additional channel stiffener bolts on my F3. For me it was easier to remove the splash guards/pans in front of and behind the sway channel frame. See attached instruction pages for details on the stiffener bolts. I had to split the PDF file in order to be able to upload.




    SpyDel
    2017 F3 Limited

  4. #4
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    Default Splash Guard Removal

    Thank you. It is my mistake to not have looked at the instructions Ron sent in the box vs a copy I had downloaded awhile back. The newer version of the instructions do point out that there are stiffener pins to be removed as well and that it is easier to do the job by removing the splash guards. I also emailed Ron and he responded very quickly to advise on later model F3's it will likely be necessary to remove the splash guard. thank you all for your quick responses. Love that everyone chimes in to offer their tips and advise. This is highly appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spydel View Post
    There were two bolts holding the sway bar in and two additional channel stiffener bolts on my F3. For me it was easier to remove the splash guards/pans in front of and behind the sway channel frame. See attached instruction pages for details on the stiffener bolts. I had to split the PDF file in order to be able to upload.





  5. #5
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Default

    I had a tough time because I had a newer model F3 with the "extra" stiffener sleeve/bolts/nuts besides the ones that go through the blocks. With my bar, I got the old instructions and only discovered them and problem when trying to R&R the bar when it was too late. I had to remove the extra pins and the shields which added a good bit of time with the install. Good to see the updated instructions which lets you know it will be a bit more work. When you pull the extra (new) pins, the frame will slip a little and it will be necessary to put a scratch all in there to line them up again.

    Some extra details here >CLICK ME< scroll down the page.
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

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