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  1. #1
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    Default Do I harm my Spyder's engine if I shift at higher RPMs?

    Before I ever started ryding my Can-Am Spyder, I read the do's and don'ts document on the forum. Tons of GREAT information and saved me some time and frustration.

    I have a 2018 RTL, and according to the document, shifting points should be between 2500-3000 rpm.

    However, I find that it's more natural to the way I ryde to shift gears at around 3,500 rpm (especially in the twisty roads - it gives me more power and control).

    The question is - am I harming my engine by doing so?

    Thank you for sharing your opinion!

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    Default I don't think so

    I am still riding a 998 but I do know that good engineering and constant mesh transmissions wouldn't object to that modest increase in RPM, under any form of reasonable throttle at all. I wouldn't necessarily recommend 6000 RPM and full throttle but your speed sounds pretty reasonable to me.

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    IMHO, No. I have a 2016 RT-S and I routinely shift at about 3500 and cruise at about 2500-3000. I like the power at those values.

    YMMV.
    Dave

  4. #4
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CA-SPYDR View Post
    Before I ever started ryding my Can-Am Spyder, I read the do's and don'ts document on the forum. Tons of GREAT information and saved me some time and frustration.

    I have a 2018 RTL, and according to the document, shifting points should be between 2500-3000 rpm.

    However, I find that it's more natural to the way I ryde to shift gears at around 3,500 rpm (especially in the twisty roads - it gives me more power and control).

    The question is - am I harming my engine by doing so?

    Thank you for sharing your opinion!
    You are doing it right. No harm to be done unless you constantly get close to red-line. I find that 3000 - 3500 is right in my 1330's "sweet spot." I always keep the revs there. At low 50's, I never get above 5th gear. 60 + is for 6th.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  5. #5
    Active Member spyderider1's Avatar
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    I doubt if you're harming the engine in any way. You might notice lesser miles per gallon which may harm you wallet.

    LORD GRANT ME THE SENILITY TO FORGET THE PEOPLE I NEVER LIKED,
    THE GOOD FORTUNE TO RUN INTO THE ONES I DO LIKE,
    AND THE EYE SIGHT TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE.


    2016 Spyder RTS






  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderider1 View Post
    I doubt if you're harming the engine in any way. You might notice lesser miles per gallon which may harm you wallet.
    I did notice that :-)

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    Thank you! you put my mind at ease


    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    You are doing it right. No harm to be done unless you constantly get close to red-line. I find that 3000 - 3500 is right in my 1330's "sweet spot." I always keep the revs there. At low 50's, I never get above 5th gear. 60 + is for 6th.

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    Relax: you won't hurt it a bit!

    Go enjoy your ride!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Which brings up another point: ECO Mode.

    I do not use it. ECO will keep you in the lower revs (right where the OP was recommended to operate). When I first got my 2014--I tried it faithfully for a full tank. Shifted when told, etc. I found the mileage savings to be about 1 mpg.

    Not worth the distraction of watching for the green arrow, and not enough to affect the pocketbook drastically. The disadvantage, you have more power in the higher revs. However, the 1330 does have much better lower rev torque than the 998. That one comes alive at 5500 plus.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  10. #10
    Very Active Member HayRog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Which brings up another point: ECO Mode.

    I do not use it. ECO will keep you in the lower revs (right where the OP was recommended to operate). When I first got my 2014--I tried it faithfully for a full tank. Shifted when told, etc. I found the mileage savings to be about 1 mpg.

    Not worth the distraction of watching for the green arrow, and not enough to affect the pocketbook drastically. The disadvantage, you have more power in the higher revs. However, the 1330 does have much better lower rev torque than the 998. That one comes alive at 5500 plus.

  11. #11
    Active Member Michaelscs's Avatar
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    Default Not harming it a bit

    I almost always shift above 4000. Your not going to feel the true power of your 1330 until you get past 5000rpm!
    The redline for the 1330 is over 7500rpm. If I'm doing some spirited driving, I frequently shift between 6000 & 7000rpm. That's where the real fun begins!
    2020 RT Limited , Petrol Blue

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Devious56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelscs View Post
    I almost always shift above 4000. Your not going to feel the true power of your 1330 until you get past 5000rpm!
    The redline for the 1330 is over 7500rpm. If I'm doing some spirited driving, I frequently shift between 6000 & 7000rpm. That's where the real fun begins!

    Thank you for that, I thought I was the only odd ball. I normally shift between 3000 and 3500 rpm, but that depends on who I am riding with.One of the Southern Cruiser groups tends to leave stop signs and light rapidly and with them I usually shift about 5,000 or play catch up. Some of my sport bike friends now thats a different story, I shift about 7000 rpm and my RTL hasn't complained once. I know the rev limiter would kick in about 8300 rpm, and since I've had my ECU flashed I know it kicks in at 8600. (just had to see)

    How old would you be if you didn't know how old you were?

  13. #13
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    I have have to admit I never got to the 5000’s... will try it in our ryde tomorrow :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelscs View Post
    I almost always shift above 4000. Your not going to feel the true power of your 1330 until you get past 5000rpm!
    The redline for the 1330 is over 7500rpm. If I'm doing some spirited driving, I frequently shift between 6000 & 7000rpm. That's where the real fun begins!

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    I find that a gear per 1000 rpm's works pretty well on average. I do most of my shifting between 3500 and 4000 rpm's....if I'm paying attention that is. But normally, it's just by feel and sound. Seems like regardless of what gear I'm in, 3500 rpm's is a sweet spot. Try it out......
    2021 RT Limited

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Which brings up another point: ECO Mode.

    I do not use it. ECO will keep you in the lower revs (right where the OP was recommended to operate). When I first got my 2014--I tried it faithfully for a full tank. Shifted when told, etc. I found the mileage savings to be about 1 mpg.

    Not worth the distraction of watching for the green arrow, and not enough to affect the pocketbook drastically. The disadvantage, you have more power in the higher revs. However, the 1330 does have much better lower rev torque than the 998. That one comes alive at 5500 plus.
    I agree but I still find it useful. You can just ignore it. However, the difference between 5 & 6 isn't that much and a couple of times I've been buzzing right along and look down saw that green arrow reminding me that I'm still in 5. Sure, I could still see "5" but that's easier to miss seeing that that than the big green arrow.
    2017 RTS , Blue

  16. #16
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    I'm the "Low & Slow" Guy:
    I normally shift at 2,000 to 2500 rpm.
    Here's how it works out on the Speedmeter:

    1st to 2nd: 13 mph
    2nd to 3rd: 20 mph
    3rd to 4th: 26 mph
    4th to 5th: 32 mph
    5th to 6th: 38 mph

    The bike never shudders, lurches, judders or bogs: it just pulls smoothly!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelscs View Post
    I almost always shift above 4000. Your not going to feel the true power of your 1330 until you get past 5000rpm!
    The redline for the 1330 is over 7500rpm. If I'm doing some spirited driving, I frequently shift between 6000 & 7000rpm. That's where the real fun begins!
    2014 RTL Platinum


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsimion View Post
    I agree but I still find it useful. You can just ignore it. However, the difference between 5 & 6 isn't that much and a couple of times I've been buzzing right along and look down saw that green arrow reminding me that I'm still in 5. Sure, I could still see "5" but that's easier to miss seeing that that than the big green arrow.
    I used the ECO mode for about the first 5k miles but now shift by engine sound. I have been fooled by the long-legged 5th gear feeling like 6th.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  19. #19
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    Default Thank you!

    Thank you everyone for sharing your experience with me and putting my mind at ease :-)

  20. #20
    Very Active Member stmike 1800's Avatar
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    I shift by ear most of the time ,as with the stupid 2018 dash if you are doing anything with trip meter or such the rpm is gone.
    2018 RTL , dark blue

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CA-SPYDR View Post
    The question is - am I harming my engine by doing so?

    Thank you for sharing your opinion!
    NO.

    And it is not just an "opinion".

    Your engine is designed to operate safely up to the "red line" on the tach......which is about 7,500 I think.

    Now....constantly running it near the red line might not be the best thing to do.

  22. #22
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    Default I try and do the same...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I'm the "Low & Slow" Guy:
    I normally shift at 2,000 to 2500 rpm.
    Here's how it works out on the Speedmeter:

    1st to 2nd: 13 mph
    2nd to 3rd: 20 mph
    3rd to 4th: 26 mph
    4th to 5th: 32 mph
    5th to 6th: 38 mph

    The bike never shudders, lurches, judders or bogs: it just pulls smoothly!
    If I'm not in a hurry I try and use the same shift points. And if I stay blow 3k at cruse I consistently get 40/42 mpg, and, I can still read the lettering on the center rib of my rear tire.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    NO.

    And it is not just an "opinion".

    Your engine is designed to operate safely up to the "red line" on the tach......which is about 7,500 I think.

    Now....constantly running it near the red line might not be the best thing to do.
    Right on! (Except redline is more like 8100, isn't it?)

    The major point of having a computer-controlled engine AND TRANSMISSION is that it will not allow you to shift at any point that would cause damage to the hardware. Either UP or DOWN. You are only requesting a shift. The computer actually does the shift, but only when safe to do so.

    So bang away, you are not hurting anything!

    P.S. I shift the way Bob does. Except when I don't, and that's when I'm willing to splurge the fuel to have some fun!
    NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
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  24. #24
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    8,100 in gear... 7,500 in neutral.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  25. #25
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    Default To shift or not to shift

    I posted this about shift points in another earlier thread:
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...l=1#post650886

    As long as you keep your oil changed, I see no reason to not wring it out once in awhile. In the old days this was known as the Italian tune-up, ya gotta blow the gunk out from the motor!
    Last edited by asp125; 06-17-2018 at 09:45 AM.
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