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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    Default Headlight Shutter on RT bouncing??

    I just put a set of the 10th anniversary headlights on my 2014 RT.
    Riding this morning I noticed that the low beam / hi beam shutter is moving when I hit dips in the road.
    Does anyone know if the shutter can be tighten down a bit???
    2014 RT-Ltd , Cognac

  2. #2
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Honestly I prefer running the high beams during the daytime. I know it may be technically illegal, but the shutter movements cause a flickering appearance which is what I believe your noticing. The flickering goes away on high beam mode. Then when it starts to get dark, I just lower the beams which don't appear to flicker at night.
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    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    Yes the flickering of the shutter is what I'd like to eliminate.
    Riding in the dark is my concern as I don't want to appear that I'm flashing my "brights" to oncoming traffic.
    I had this problem on my 2012 RT but no problem with my current 2014 RT with the OEM lamps...
    As for riding with the hi beams on, I have LED bulbs which are quite bright and prefer not to subject oncoming drivers to them...
    2014 RT-Ltd , Cognac

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

    When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides.

    The fix for me was for them to loosen the right side. Now--back to normal. I have both high and low beams.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  5. #5
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Guy View Post
    Yes the flickering of the shutter is what I'd like to eliminate.
    Riding in the dark is my concern as I don't want to appear that I'm flashing my "brights" to oncoming traffic.
    I had this problem on my 2012 RT but no problem with my current 2014 RT with the OEM lamps...
    As for riding with the hi beams on, I have LED bulbs which are quite bright and prefer not to subject oncoming drivers to them...
    For whatever reason(s) the shutter bounce is not visible at night. The lights appear perfectly normal on low beam at night.

    I ride consistently in front (lead rider) of a Spyder under different lighting conditions and these are my direct observations.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  6. #6
    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    For whatever reason(s) the shutter bounce is not visible at night. The lights appear perfectly normal on low beam at night.

    I ride consistently in front (lead rider) of a Spyder under different lighting conditions and these are my direct observations.
    I can notice it quite clearly, street signs ect...
    2014 RT-Ltd , Cognac

  7. #7
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default SHUTTER - BOUNCE

    This is interesting .... quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced ..... Mike ......................MAYBE He will chime in on this
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 06-14-2018 at 12:57 PM.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    This is interesting quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced ..... Mike ......................MAYBE He will chime in on this
    I don't think it's locked. There's a solenoid that pulls the shutter out of the way for high beam. Otherwise there is a spring that holds it in low beam position. If bouncing is heavy enough then the bounce apparently can move the shutter against the spring pressure.

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  9. #9
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    This is interesting .... quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced ..... Mike ......................MAYBE He will chime in on this
    Don't know about the "locked" thing. When we had our RS and GS, spouse used to ride behind me. When low beams were on, it did appear the lights were flashing (and in a bluish color). The road was quite uneven. If the shutters are "locked," then IMO--the uneven roads are the cause of the flickering of the lights. Either way, the low beams do seem to flash.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  10. #10
    Member bmarkel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

    When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides. ......
    I have just finished installing Lamonster LED headlights in my wife's 2018 RT. When checking the lights I noticed the shutter on the right light is not working. It may not have been earlier, I don't know. Anyway, what can be over tightened? What should I check for? I hear the solenoid in the left light and not the right.
    You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed?
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-24-2019 at 03:47 AM. Reason: Re-establishing the 'quote' as a quote!
    2021 Grey RT Limited, Dark Edition; Baja Ron sway bar; Spyder Pops front fender and mirror pod LED turn signals

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    Honestly I prefer running the high beams during the daytime. I know it may be technically illegal, but the shutter movements cause a flickering appearance which is what I believe your noticing. The flickering goes away on high beam mode. Then when it starts to get dark, I just lower the beams which don't appear to flicker at night.
    Technically it's still a bit of debate. Minimally simple headlight is required, high beam in daylight is recommended & only illegal at & after dusk, at certain distances in front or behind another vehicle or oncoming traffic. & some states have gaps including the grassy medians where oncoming traffic is not directly effected. Point being know the laws of your State & use as basis when traveling (disclaimer: no legal representation intended , just experience & intruction from authorities )

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarkel View Post
    You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed?
    Yes. It's tight in there.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarkel View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

    When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides.
    I have just finished installing Lamonster LED headlights in my wife's 2018 RT. When checking the lights I noticed the shutter on the right light is not working. It may not have been earlier, I don't know. Anyway, what can be over tightened? What should I check for? I hear the solenoid in the left light and not the right.
    You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed?
    " Over tightened " ….. I don't think that's possible from the way the mechanism is constructed...… Because of the ADDED wire, it is more likely that is causing the shutter to be jammed - ie it can't move …… been there done that ……. Mike
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-24-2019 at 03:55 AM.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    What is this shutter thing and does my F3L have it?
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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  15. #15
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    It might not be the shutter bouncing. You must remember they are projector headlights and have a sharp light cut-off line. A lot of vehicle these days also have projector headlights and you will notice as they approach you that it looks like they are flashing their lights. But they are not. This is most likely what you are seeing.
    2021 Sea to Sky RT , Highland green

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    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel The Biker View Post
    It might not be the shutter bouncing. You must remember they are projector headlights and have a sharp light cut-off line. A lot of vehicle these days also have projector headlights and you will notice as they approach you that it looks like they are flashing their lights. But they are not. This is most likely what you are seeing.
    The light has a very definitive horizontal line. When your vehicle hits a bump, that line will bounce up and down. I had the same lights on my Can Am Commander. When running off road I had to always warn anyone ahead of me that the bumps would make it look like I was flashing my lights. Just the way they are..... Jim
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  17. #17
    Member bmarkel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    " Over tightened " ….. I don't think that's possible from the way the mechanism is constructed...… Because of the ADDED wire, it is more likely that is causing the shutter to be jammed - ie it can't move …… been there done that ……. Mike
    Thanks for the feedback Mike. One of my Sons was an engineer for Sylvania at one point in his career and he explained how the mechanism works. I'll bet I've jammed the mechanism with the wiring.
    Hope it is that easy! LOL!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-24-2019 at 03:57 AM. Reason: Fixed the quote
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  18. #18
    Member bmarkel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    What is this shutter thing and does my F3L have it?
    The headlight bulb has one filament. So, there is no bright and dim filament. Just a one filament bulb in one light fixture. To get the low and high beam effect, the light assembly has a metal "eye lid" which is held down by a spring to cover half of the bulb projector for low beam. If you activate the high beam, a solenoid pulls the eye lid up for high beam.
    It is my understanding that all US Spyders use this system. Probably made for BRP by Valeo Sylvania.
    The general consensus here is that I have jammed the mechanism when I installed aftermarket LED bulbs from Lamonster. Lots of additional wiring to stuff in with the modification. Very likely the problem I'm having.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-24-2019 at 03:53 AM. Reason: Fixed the quote
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  19. #19
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarkel View Post
    It is my understanding that all US Spyders use this system. Probably made for BRP by Valeo Sylvania.
    The parts diagram for the F3 shows an H4 bulb which is dual filament for high and low beam in one bulb.

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  20. #20
    Member bmarkel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    The parts diagram for the F3 shows an H4 bulb which is dual filament for high and low beam in one bulb.
    You are correct. The F3-S, anyway, has a dual filament Halogen bulb. Not the peep eye set up as on the RT.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-25-2021 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Fixed quote display
    2021 Grey RT Limited, Dark Edition; Baja Ron sway bar; Spyder Pops front fender and mirror pod LED turn signals

  21. #21
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    Low's on my 18 rtlt appear to bounce up and down like a horny jack rabbit. Hate em!

  22. #22
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    Default High and low beams

    Firstly, I'm down under in Australia, I recently purchased my first Spyder being a 2014 SE6 RT. On any of the Spyders here there is no Fog lamp switch, and I've noticed that when running "down here at least" our low beam is always on, our low beams are actually the lower pair of lights which as stated in previous posts have a very destinct cut off line. If I switch to high beam, the low beams are switched off and the upper pair of lights come on. I have no idea if our lights here have a shutter which moves or not. I love the spread of the low beams, but high beam doesnt have as good a spread and is more like a spot. I would love when switching on high beam for the low beam to stay on as well. I havent attempted yet but when I replace my current bulbs with LED's I've ordered am going to find the wires which powers the low and high respectivly and bridge with a diode from the high beam wire to the low so that when I switch on high beam the low stays on but when on low beam the diode will prevent high beam from energizing, I have done this diode trick on other bikes i've owned in the past and it certainly made night riding better with much more light to see with. I've also have noticed the little spots where parker lights would be are empty so thinking while I have the housings out see if I can rig up parker lights. I'm hoping that the more experienced here can throw any suggestions or advice my way. Attached picture shows the empty spots where I assume parker lights would be.

    Many thanks in advance

    Marc

    20210616_140225.jpg

  23. #23
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Marc, our Australian Spyders don't have the shutter arrangement that North American Spyders do, but rather have the lo-beam lights where their fog lights are; and our Hi-beams are single filament globes in the large upper light housings, as you've already noticed. If you want to keep all four lights on with high beam, check out Pogo's 4-Eyes light conversion on OzSpyderRyders.com
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-25-2021 at 08:03 AM.
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  24. #24
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    Cheers mate, will check it out, but was hoping the diode idea may work without tripping the CANBUS

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    Marc, our Australian Spyders don't have the shutter arrangement that North American Spyders do, but rather have the lo-beam lights where their fog lights are; and our Hi-beams are single filament globes in the large upper light housings, as you've already noticed. If you want to keep all four lights on with high beam, check out Pogo's 4-Eyes light conversion on OzSpyderRyders.com
    Looks like pogo-electronics is dead in the water, and not selling anything any more, So hope others on here may have some suggestions to my original post...

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