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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Batteries are considered still good if it can maintain a minimum of 10V.
    No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

    A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.

  2. #27
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

    A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.
    I am sorry did you not read the quote I was commenting on for context. Minimum voltage of 10V during crank or load test. I was not talking about voltage at rest.

    load test.jpg

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  3. #28
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I was wondering where you got the 10.5V from. Everything I have everseen says the cluster will reboot at 10V. Batteries are considered still good if it can maintain a minimum of 10V. No fault codes are recorded unless the voltage drops below 10V.
    The 10 volt number might be the right one, or at least the official one. But I'm sure when I let my battery get low one time and got the black screen I saw 10.5 on my voltmeter when I hit the starter. One of these days I'll keep the maintainer off for awhile and do another test, like maybe next fall after riding season is over!!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  4. #29
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    The 10 volt number might be the right one, or at least the official one. But I'm sure when I let my battery get low one time and got the black screen I saw 10.5 on my voltmeter when I hit the starter. One of these days I'll keep the maintainer off for awhile and do another test, like maybe next fall after riding season is over!!
    Sure. If I had a battery that load tested less then 10.5 but 10 or higher. I would replace it. That would be a personal choice.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I am sorry did you not read the quote I was commenting on for context. Minimum voltage of 10V during crank or load test. I was not talking about voltage at rest.
    No. I didn't make the connection. Sorry.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by spidergreg View Post
    Help, I have been down since Feb with knee surgeries but I have been starting the Spyder every couple of weeks. The other day I went out to the garage to fire up the Spyder. But, this time, it did not start. When I turn the key on, everything seems to be ok, but when I press the start button there is a click sound from the center to rear of the bike and then the bike reboots. I have generated a video of what is happening... Video

    During this video I have disconnected the battery and connected a fully charged battery. Please give me any clues cause or ideas that you might have to resolve this issue. if I can't figure this out I will have to load her up and take her to the dealer 3.5hrs away. Also, please pardon the dust on my machine, I hate to see her this way, but I have been out of commission for awhile.

    Mate sounds and looks just like a flat battery … (not enough current availability to be drawn to start) … I'd have to ask straight up how good was the battery you swapped over for that start? Have you had the normal battery hooked up for any sort of trickle charge to keep that battery topped off while you haven't been able to start / ride it ? … Thinking about this yet again, it being 12v will do no harm what so ever to give it a jump start to 'a known good battery' for example even if that was in your car ….. I would doubt very much for it to be mechanical as you are getting the dreaded orange message screen. What was the fault message at that time ? …. However I am still backing a flat or 'not capable' battery for your problems at this stage ...

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

    A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.
    Absolutely agree … irrespective of what is written in the manual

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