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Originally Posted by bzbaeren
It would be useful if you posted a link to the product you are referring to.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
I think these just stiffen the springs, am I right? Do they provide better handling characteristics compared to the sway bar upgrade?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Pretty much yes.
A cheaper alternative to expensive shock upgrades.
With the sway bar and the shock adjusters really make it better handling. JMO
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Very Active Member
They do not stiffen the spring, they add additional preload to to oem spring. You can adjust the amount of extra preload you desire. This devise increases the topend capacity of the oem spring to prevent the shock from bottoming out. If your oem springs are a bit weak, these should work fine for making the oem set up work for your riding weight.
Jerry
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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My Shock Spring Adjuster set is not as well known as my Sway Bar Kit. But those who have installed them really like them. We did quite a bit of testing before producing them. So far they have been very well accepted.
Most Spyder models come with an adjustable rear shock. But nothing for the front.
The OEM front shocks are pretty decent hydraulically on the 2014+ RT models. But they lack the all important shock spring pre-load adjustability that comes on every aftermarket shock, and all Spyder model shocks produced before 2013. This is very important because it is the springs which hold up your Spyder, not the shocks.
These threaded adjusters will let you compensate for loading and give you a better, more controlled ride. They work very well with the Sway Bar upgrade as the Shocks, Shock Springs, and Sway Bar all work together to give you the excellent handling and smooth ride that you're looking for.
Front end alignment is set with your Spyder at a certain right height. When loaded you can lose up to 2 inches in ride height with the stock, non-adjustable front shocks. This not only robs you of precious ground clearance making it much easier to hit the front end on speed bumps, driveway entrance/exit, etc., but compromises your alignment, which can cause degraded handling and tire wear issues.
You may also find that your Spyder will dive and lean more than you like in corners. Especially when braking.
With these threaded shock adjusters you can easily increase shock spring pre-load when loaded, giving added stability and maintaining original ride height. And back them off when riding 1 up and unloaded. Giving you a nice, controlled ride in both conditions.
These adjusters are made from aircraft grade billet aluminum and come in Red, Silver and Black anodized. (Black not pictured).
Adjusters6.jpgShockAdj2.jpgShockAdjS2.jpg
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
You may also find that your Spyder will dive and lean more than you like in corners. Especially when braking.
I apologize in advance for what is probably an idiotic question, but I definitely observe the above in my (suspension-wise) stock 2017 RT. So which would be more useful to install first, the anti-sway bar or the shock adjusters? Or do they only really make a difference in tandem?
Regards,
Bret
2017 RT-S Orbital Blue
BajaRon Anti-Sway Bar
SpyderPops LED Bumpskid, Spyclops II LED, Full View Turn Signals & Belt Guard
Sena 20S Bluetooth Headsets
Brake Free Helmet Light
FOBO Bike for Trike
Rugged Geek RG1000 Safety Plus Jump Starter/Air Compressor
Lamonster RAM mount/Techmount TechGripper
Drink2Go Cup Holders
UltraGard Half Cover
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Active Member
adjusters
to me, these made the biggest improvements to my bikes handling than anything that i have done, including the sway bar.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by bhern
I apologize in advance for what is probably an idiotic question, but I definitely observe the above in my (suspension-wise) stock 2017 RT. So which would be more useful to install first, the anti-sway bar or the shock adjusters? Or do they only really make a difference in tandem?
You want to address the biggest issue first. And that would be the sway bar. If you add the shock adjusters first, the tendency is to over tighten them in an attempt to compensate for the weak sway bar. Doing this will gain some handling and stability improvements. But at the expense of creating a much harsher ride. The sway bar, in conjunction with shock spring adjusters, allows each component to address the specific need it was designed for. This gives you a great deal of improvement in many areas while retaining the great ride comfort the Spyder is known for. It is not necessary to give up one to get the other.
Once you get the sway bar installed. You can then evaluate if you want to get your ride height (ground clearance) back. And if you'd like to further reduce the dive and lean in corners and when braking. If so, then add the shock adjusters or upgrade to better shocks. Some customers do both at the same time. And that's fine. But then they do not know what improvements were provided by which upgrade. To many, this is not as important to them as the overall, finished results. And I understand that as well.
I know it is difficult for owners to visualize the potential improvements with these suspension upgrades. I don't blame people for being skeptical and trying to quantify what they can expect before they buy. It's a serious investment and no one wants to be disappointed. Many people have the misconception that these upgrades are an advantage only for spirited riding and twisty roads. And while the bar and adjusters do really shine in these situations. They will also give noticeable improvements for any riding style.
The comment I get from many customers goes something like this. 'I didn't think I needed it and I really didn't understand what it did for the Spyder. But now that I have the bar, (or added the shock adjusters). I can really tell the difference. I just wish I'd done it sooner'.
Explaining the difference in a meaningful way is difficult. But once you ride these suspension upgrades you can feel exactly what they are doing to improve the ride, stability and handling of the Spyder. The passenger will notice it even more than the rider, in most cases.
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-01-2018 at 05:10 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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What’s the difference in the colors? From one picture it shows the reds fit on a larger shock tube and the silver fits on a smaller tube. So what color fits on what model?
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Originally Posted by Flamewinger
What’s the difference in the colors? From one picture it shows the reds fit on a larger shock tube and the silver fits on a smaller tube. So what color fits on what model?
All models come in all 3 colors.
Silver
Red
Black
I just have not taken pictures of the black. But most people can imagine what they look like. Pretty much unnoticeable. But that's what some prefer. Also, in some countries you get in trouble for modifying your vehicle without government approval (which is the way we are headed). So those customers don't want any bling that might give away a modification.
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-07-2018 at 01:40 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Active Member
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I think I got the first Black version shock adjuster?? 1-1/2 to 2 turns seems to be the sweet spot. Dont see more than 3 turns at this time.
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
I think I got the first Black version shock adjuster?? 1-1/2 to 2 turns seems to be the sweet spot. Dont see more than 3 turns at this time.
I have 1 customer that is using 5 turns when fully loaded and riding 2-up. That is the most I know of. He said they also made an improvement in handling when pulling a trailer. He said he noticed it controlled what he thought was trailer induced front end dive when braking hard in corners.
Most find a sweet spot right around 2 turns. So that is where I recommend everyone start out. Then adjust from there to see if another setting might suit them better.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
My Shock Spring Adjuster set is not as well known as my Sway Bar Kit. But those who have installed them really like them. We did quite a bit of testing before producing them. So far they have been very well accepted.
Most Spyder models come with an adjustable rear shock. But nothing for the front.
With these threaded shock adjusters you can easily increase shock spring pre-load when loaded, giving added stability and maintaining original ride height. And back them off when riding 1 up and unloaded. Giving you a nice, controlled ride in both conditions.
These adjusters are made from aircraft grade billet aluminum and come in Red, Silver and Black anodized. (Black not pictured).
ShockAdj2.jpg
There's a thread started recently by someone who needs to upgrade the rear suspension on a 2010 RSS for greater weight-bearing capacity; would something like this help, do you think?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
There's a thread started recently by someone who needs to upgrade the rear suspension on a 2010 RSS for greater weight-bearing capacity; would something like this help, do you think?
Theoretically, yes. But for this kind of system to work you need to start with a spring that is at least close to being the right weight. With the front suspension on the Spyders that I make these adjusters for, both the hydraulics and the spring are in the ballpark. So adding adjustablity gives you a great deal of benefit.
But with the rear suspension. The first issue is a much to weak spring. You would need to add so much compression that it would probably reduce your travel to an unacceptable amount. And, once you add enough spring to the stock rear shock you may find the hydraulics are not capable of controlling rebound efficiently.
There are a number of variables that enter into this equation. So just throwing un-paired parts at the situation can give less than stellar results.
P.S.
I have to add that I have not done a great deal of research on this particular issue. So my post above is more generalities I've learned from the adjusters I make and my gut feeling about the rear shock. Not necessarily a completely accurate assessment of the Spyder's rear shock system.
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-12-2018 at 05:31 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Just curious to know if there is a video of how to remove the front shocks? I’m finding that my RT limited will require removing the front cargo to get at the upper shock bolts. I’m thinking this will be a winter project as it will take a bit more time to do.
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Problem is I have the newer RT and from another video that shows everything coming off, I see some differences.
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That is how I did it on my 2014 RT
There are very few differences. The only thing I seen was the cable for the headlight can be left alone.
Can you give a example?
I know to get to the upper shock bolt can be a pain. Some have done it without removing the frunk but the wire harness wraps around that upper shock area. So I removed my frunk to install the adjusters.
Last edited by trikermutha; 06-17-2018 at 05:35 PM.
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This guy removes all panels and part of it shows removing the front unit.
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I guess if you are doing more work on the Spyder you can pull those side panels off. But its not needed unless you feel the need to take all that stuff off. JMO
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Well, I was able to lift the RT enough to get better access to the upper bolts. I used an offset box wrench and a deep socket with short breaker bar to get at the bolts. Then used a ratchet wrench to quickly get the nuts off. Lifted the bike a bit more and the bolts came out with no problems and then the shocks were easy to take out. Going to friend's house for his help to install the adjusters. Cant wait to get them back on and try them out!
+6gtvpOSRuGKoRe2QqeHUw.jpg anOj47v%TLCrO%+ckF5pGg.jpg
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So what is the difference between this and say a spring rubber or spacer?
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