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  1. #1
    Active Member C3517C's Avatar
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    Default Check Engine Warning

    2011 RT-S. I was on day 2 of a 2 day trip today. Went about 300 miles yesterday and 150 today when the orange 'Check Engine" light came on my display and was flashing off and on. I checked it roadside as best I could. No overheating, oil is good, coolant is good, no smells, no limp mode, all electrical seems to be fine, and the Spyder is still running normal.
    I pulled up the code screen to see what codes may have been thrown. The screen comes up empty. I thought this was strange. If the system is telling you to check the engine shouldn't there be a code as to why ?
    I turned the Spyder off and gave it a chance to reset. It started up afterwards and still ran fine, but was still showing the orange check engine. I rode it home another 150 miles that way. After giving it another break, the orange screen is gone, and there are still no codes. This has never happened before end I've had the bike 7 years. I'm open to any ideas you may have as to the cause of this.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default We had a 2011 RT that liked to flash a "check engine screen"

    We usually had an accompanying PO174 code when we did the three finger check code routine. It was on and off between some throttle body cleanings, sensors and other shop diagnostics, but the bike ran fine otherwise. It was sporadic and a couple of shops worked to replace vacuum hose/clamps etc and was still a sporadic issue when we traded for the 15 RT. It never left us stranded, just a pain to see it flashing
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Wow only times my 13 has shown that light I did get a code P1175 first came up back in March never felt or heard any thing from the engine the orange screen was annoying but would clear & just leave the check engine light & a caution orange blocking warning over my trip meter. Then cleared itself with no hint as to how or why it did fine all of April then just reappeared last week lasted almost 2days & cleared itself again
    Spyder codes says:
    system too rich bank 2 injection & fuel system check fuel pressure regulator
    again I happy it cleared itself & I retrieved the code when I did. Got call in to dealer to look deeper on buds & hopefully this is all I will see of it. FYI been able to stick with one brand & level of gas all this year so far & has only appeared while I was local, thought it may have been a bad station & was able to rule that out. THANK YOU Spyder Codes

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default 2012 here

    I am getting the nannie grams --- think 3 so far maybe 4 times , someone one on the site mentioned it might be from the traction control or the sensor that tell nannie you might be going too far off center , and shut her down , when in reality you are driving straight down the road at a comfortable speed ... the more plausible cause --- > to me any way throttle body sensor /and or the gas pressure , fuel mix . these are things we really can`t control , and the gas mixture is more what I would be leaning toward , I use the 93 octane , but thinking more to go too the 89 regular octane , the only reason the gas could be a problem , could be there is ( 1 ) winter blends in the super octane tanks, that are now getting mixed with a new batch of gas mixtures for summer drivers ( 2 ) the guy filling up the 93 octane tanks from the tanker truck attaches the wrong supply to the holding tanks , and now there is 93 octane and the ethanol blend mix ? but either way still get the orange badge of "`o-crap now what " .... but other than turn off the off cycle and let reset , it runs fine , I did the vacuum hoses last fall so those are o.k. forgot to mention ----> had a ride last summer went on a long haul , purchased 93 at a off the beating path gas station , and I do believe the gas was super poor , the cycle back fired a few times and ran rough as heck , this to me would be the start of the problems . going to look at getting the fuel filter changed pretty quick , that would give the fuel pressure change ( in my thinking ) ...

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Default

    Well, just pretty much echoing what's been said, too. The book says that if the Check Engine Light is BLINKING (flashing?), then you should have gone into Limp Home mode. Clearly that didn’t happen. But I couldn’t tell if you meant that the light itself was flashing or that the orange warning display was flashing. Yes, anytime you get a Check Engine light, there should be a code set while the light is on. So, perhaps you had a fault condition that was right at the point of tripping and reseting. If that’s the case, when you did the three finger code check, perhaps you didn’t catch it when it was Active. BUDS can be used to retrieve codes that have occurred, so you have that available to you if you want to visit a dealer, or an independent tech, and see what the code history is. And if it happens again, pull over and check for codes while the light is on, before you shutoff the engine and turn the key off.

    The high probability intermittent issues with these years are the Bank 2 Lean and the Throttle Body codes. The first is usually solved with replacing the vacuum hoses and sometimes the purge valve. Checking the rubber boot for the throttle body for cracks and tightness of the clamps. Plus, do your standard maintenance on your fuel filter and adding some injector cleaner periodically. If you’ve never changed out the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor, I’d start there.

    The second is usually an issue of throttle body cleaning. A pain to do yourself because of the stock air box. But once you get access to it, it’s no big deal. And there was a TST on Throttle Body issues that applies to the 2011 RT that described actions to take based on the Throttle Body part number and the ECM software version. I can send that to you. Can’t post it. PM me your email if you want it.

    So, once you catch the code while it’s Active or retrieve the code history you’ll have a better idea. But you can do some of these preventative things in the mean time.


    Doug

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  6. #6
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    Default

    Did you check for codes before you turned the key off? If not, you cleared whatever may have been there. You can even check for codes while you’re going down the highway, I got very good at that on my 13.

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  7. #7
    Active Member C3517C's Avatar
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    Default

    I was pulling up the codes while the orange screen was still flashing (repeatedly) but still couldn't get any. Everything else said makes total sense. I remember a few years back there were quite a few people having throttle body issues but I was lucky enough not to have any back then. So that is surely worth checking.
    It sounds like vacuum hoses, fuel filter, or possibly bad gas could also be a culprit. I was on a road trip and had bought gas at 6 or 7 different places in the past day. I had also put some fuel injector cleaner in my gas at the start of the trip, but that was about 450 miles prior to getting the orange lights. Possibly related ?? Thanks to everyone for the good advice.

  8. #8
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    Chris, I didn’t realize that this was your post. If you can come over tomorrow or Monday we can hook you up to BUDS

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

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