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And that's why, I TOW A TRAILER!! Darn it. P.S. Pete.... I hope you get your issue resolved. Mac
Last edited by Mad Mac; 05-25-2018 at 03:30 PM.
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2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Good to hear it’s working, Pete, and here’s hoping that it doesn’t occur again before you see the dealer.
I will be moving the install of release cables up my priority list now. Actually, there could be a market for some enterprising young (or old) person to develop cable operated release kits for the various models.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
The hammer trick !,
I did tell Jane about " adjusting" the switch with a dead blow or soft faced hammer. Did she mntion it to you?.?? I just knew the tumbler pins in the lock barrel had jammed.
SO GLAD YOU GOT IT FIXED. Now some powdered graphite, more compressed air, and lots of key move movement ( all to spread the graphite into the tumblers)
Again --- a great time with you,Jane, and Paul.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Originally Posted by Lew L
I did tell Jane about " adjusting" the switch with a dead blow or soft faced hammer. Did she mntion it to you?.?? I just knew the tumbler pins in the lock barrel had jammed. SO GLAD YOU GOT IT FIXED. Now some powdered graphite, more compressed air, and lots of key move movement ( all to spread the graphite into the tumblers)
Yup, I'd been tapping on the housing, along with shooting WD40, compressed air and graphite. Nothing worked until I slammed the key into the hole with the mallet, but I wouldn't have had the mallet or thought about hitting it if it hadn't been for your suggestion. Thanks Lew.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by Mad Mac
And that's why, I TOW A TRAILER!! Darn it. P.S. Pete.... I hope you get your issue resolved. Mac
I had the key barrel on my trailer pop out of position, it had to be drilled out to get into the trailer. Of course the tools were in the trailer.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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2014 RTL Platinum
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Who knew that my dad's home repair recipe - if wd40 doesn't work, hit it with a hammer - would work on a spyder? Glad it's all working now.
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Very Active Member
See Pete it all works out for the best. If this hadn't happened you wouldn't have had near so much to talk about.It would have been just another everyday meet and greet,now none of us will ever forget the day that Lew and Nova came to town and you and Jane and I all went to lunch with them.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I feel your pain , and I'm sorry I can't help with your currant issue ........... Your problem is a perfect example of why I have mechanical PULL wires connected to my Frunk & Seat latches ..... Asking the ignition switch to do more than make the Electrical connection makes NO sense to me ...... If you want more info let me know ..... it was easy to do .... Mike
X2. also saves wear and tear on the key and switch. i mainly use the pulls.
glad to hear its working. if all else fails, the BMFH method will do it!!
Last edited by irvin48; 05-26-2018 at 06:28 AM.
2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
and some little stuff. setback utopia backrest, baja ron
sway bar, oem adj. air deflectors, marlin gps compass,
lamonster fbb foot pegs[modified brackets], lamonts
vibration damper, rock guard, and side case stiffener kit,
. brp comfort seat. , fomozas and
altimax, magic mirror mts, and wide mirrors.
[joyce & irvin toms]
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switch is around 230 bucks plus labor.
You can see the cables under the switch when removing the headlights too. and see if anything is hanging up cable wise. (frunk,seat)
Good Luck
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Update to this.
The ignition switch has been working flawlessly since I smashed the key into the switch. Even opens the frunk and seat much easier.
Took it down to the dealer today and told him what happened. He asked if I wanted to replace it anyway and I said it's probably best, since it could fail on me again and leave us stranded at some point. He is going to check first with BRP to see if they will handle it under the recall program. If not, he's pretty confident the Rider's Advantage extended warranty I have on it will honor the repair.
They will call me when they have a resolution to the payment of this repair; meanwhile, we're continuing to ride the bike for day rides.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Good choice on having it replaced. Dont forget the truck lock too and if you have matching trailer .
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
Good choice on having it replaced. Dont forget the truck lock too and if you have matching trailer .
Yes, it will involve all 3 locks. But, hopefully I'll never need to deal with it again.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Utah Pete, this just happened to me this morning on a short ride. i was able to get back home since it was stuck in the on position, just as you described. Tried WD and some other lubricants and nothing, then i read where you tapped on the key and it released. Whew, thanks sooo much!! Saved me a day of frustration.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by stubronco
Utah Pete, this just happened to me this morning on a short ride. i was able to get back home since it was stuck in the on position, just as you described. Tried WD and some other lubricants and nothing, then i read where you tapped on the key and it released. Whew, thanks sooo much!! Saved me a day of frustration.
It's fairly easy to prevent this. Shortly after I bought my first Spyder, in 09 ... I realized having the ignition switch open the Frunk ( and seat latch ) was NOT a good system, for lots of reasons .... So I Created a separate " Cable " to open the latch .... and this is now the ONLY way I open the Frunk .... Do a search, there are many threads / posts on how it's done .... IMHO the way I do it is the simplest and least expensive way .... good luck ... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-20-2022 at 12:36 AM.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by LJspydee
Sounds like I should start carrying a hammer! I've already installed a manual cable release for the frunk after having locked the key in the frunk 35 miles from home. Wife left her key at home. Luckily we have good friends.
Doesn't matter which tools you carry anyway. You can always use whatever you have as a hammer.
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
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Very Active Member
Was it a metric hammer?? Glad that you got your situation resolved!!
2015 RTL, BajaRon Swaybar, LaMonster LED Headlights and Foglights, LaMonster Spydercuff, LaMonster LED mirror wrap, Magic Mirrors, HMT Brake Light
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Active Member
It's good practice to use graphite powder for locks, the copper latches will slide better Lessen wear, also protects for moisture, and I agree with blueknight, that a key is only needed to start the machine.
I made the latches also, never use the key for the frunk on my f3.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-28-2022 at 06:16 PM.
Reason: ,'s
the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........
Spyder F3s 2019 All Black ( Named it: Brutus)
Carbon Items added, just for looks
Upgraded Shocks Trac-Tive, Rear hi/lo and rebound adjustable, with Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster
fronts hi/lo and rebound adjustable, custom made by the Trac-Tive Guru's
Swaybar (Ron's)
Tyres Front Michelin Cross Climate+ 175/60-15
Rear, for 2022 still a Kenda, next Yokohama Advan Fleva 205/55R15
Exhaust Bone stock, with a RLS Cat- Delete
Custom ECU-Mapping, rewritten/adapted to my Ridingstyle
Pedalbox, Awesome Upgrade...
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Very Active Member
I came across this online. It's not the most elegant or aesthetic solution, but certainly seems like a simple one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMqmALEtb10
Greg Kamer
"It's better to be not riding and wishing you were than be riding and wishing you weren't."
USAF, 20 years, retired
Sheriff's Office, 23 years, retired
2018 Can Am Spyder RT-Limited
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Originally Posted by Lew L
I did tell Jane about " adjusting" the switch with a dead blow or soft faced hammer. Did she mntion it to you?.?? I just knew the tumbler pins in the lock barrel had jammed.
SO GLAD YOU GOT IT FIXED. Now some powdered graphite, more compressed air, and lots of key move movement ( all to spread the graphite into the tumblers)
Again --- a great time with you,Jane, and Paul.
Lew L
Not sure if this would be relevant or not, but I've had pretty good success using a dry lubricant normally sold for firearms on my lock tumblers. It sprays in wet, then dries to a slick film that doesn't collect dust/dirt. Might be worth trying. If not, firearm spray bore cleaner will clean/flush it out in an instant.
Fyre
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Very Active Member
Pete I may have missed it somewhere, but did you ever have your switch replaced? If so was it covered under your aftermarket warranty?
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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