Ignition switch 'jammed' .. key won't turn

[UtahPete]

While on a trip today, we stopped for lunch. Jane opened the frunk and put her gear away (jacket and gloves). With the key still in the ignition she attempted to open the seat, but the key would not go far enough in to engage the seat latch cam / cable. It would only go far enough to switch on the ignition. She tried several more times to open the seat but the key would not go far enough in to do so.

At that point, she turned the key to the 'off' position and removed it. But the dashboard stayed lit. I tried to to turn the key on and off, but this time the key would not turn in the ignition position either. The key will go in and out of the ignition switch okay, but will not turn and will not push in all the way to open the trunk or seat.

I've tried everything I can think of. WD-40, compressed air, graphite. Nothing allows me to turn the key. The worst part is the switch itself is jammed to the ignition on position, even though the key tumbler is straight up and down in the off position. So, I have no way to turn the ignition off and I can't get into the frunk to disconnect the battery (so it won't drain down; all my lights are on).

Any suggestions to;

• open the frunk (no I didn't have the forethought to install one of those emergency release cables)
• get at the key mechanism so I can either figure out why it's jammed or replace it with a new one?

Cognac ignition jammed.jpg

Thanks.

[JayBros]

You might try to find finless bob's video on how to install the Tri-Axis bars as I know it addressed removing the ignition switch as part of the job. It sounds like you've a tumbler or two jammed and that jamming may be the result of turning the key slightly one way or the other without it being fully into the switch. Do you have a B.E.S.T. extended warranty?

[UtahPete]

You might try to find finless bob's video on how to install the Tri-Axis bars as I know it addressed removing the ignition switch as part of the job. It sounds like you've a tumbler or two jammed and that jamming may be the result of turning the key slightly one way or the other without it being fully into the switch. Do you have a B.E.S.T. extended warranty?

I have the extended warranty that Pitbull sells, so not sure if it will cover this problem. I'm hoping I can figure it out myself, but if it's a failed switch (I understand the early '14 RTs had a recall on some) then I guess I'll have to take it to the dealer and hope for the best. Thanks.

[JayBros]

Your set of two keys came with a small plastic tag with a number on it. If you still have you dealer can tell from the number if your switch was one of the problem ones. I would think a key problem would be covered by B.E.S.T. warranty but am not certain. Worth checking as ignition switch plus key reprogramming would be more than the deductible.

[Kredab]

This might be weird but it's worth a shot ...... Similar thing happened to me , I was in panic mode, key was jammed , I actually just turned the wheels in harder turn and the key released ........

[UtahPete]

This might be weird but it's worth a shot ...... Similar thing happened to me , I was in panic mode, key was jammed , I actually just turned the wheels in harder turn and the key released ........

Thanks. The key actually will go in and out of the ignition switch quite readily. It's just that once it is it won't turn in either direction.

Are you saying that when your key jammed, the wheels were in normal driving position and to release the key you turned the handlebars hard left or right? Worth a try although I can't quite visualize what that is doing mechanically with the ignition switch.

[UtahPete]

Thanks. The key actually will go in and out of the ignition switch quite readily. It's just that once it is it won't turn in either direction.

Are you saying that when your key jammed, the wheels were in normal driving position and to release the key you turned the handlebars hard left or right? Worth a try although I can't quite visualize what that is doing mechanically with the ignition switch.

Okay, I tried this and it didn't help. But thanks for the suggestion.

[Blue Star]

While on a trip today, we stopped for lunch. Jane opened the frunk and put her gear away (jacket and gloves). With the key still in the ignition she attempted to open the seat, but the key would not go far enough in to engage the seat latch cam / cable. It would only go far enough to switch on the ignition. She tried several more times to open the seat but the key would not go far enough in to do so.

At that point, she turned the key to the 'off' position and removed it. But the dashboard stayed lit. I tried to to turn the key on and off, but this time the key would not turn in the ignition position either. The key will go in and out of the ignition switch okay, but will not turn and will not push in all the way to open the trunk or seat.

I've tried everything I can think of. WD-40, compressed air, graphite. Nothing allows me to turn the key. The worst part is the switch itself is jammed to the ignition on position, even though the key tumbler is straight up and down in the off position. So, I have no way to turn the ignition off and I can't get into the frunk to disconnect the battery (so it won't drain down; all my lights are on).

Any suggestions to;

• open the frunk (no I didn't have the forethought to install one of those emergency release cables)
• get at the key mechanism so I can either figure out why it's jammed or replace it with a new one?

Cognac ignition jammed.jpg

Thanks.

Sorry I'm not sure how to help, but what did come to mind is the key holder thing on your key. Maybe it is preventing the key from going all the way down into the chamber, and not letting the pins move/release. I know I had a hand made key holder made out of leather that did not allow the key to go all the way in, and had to trim some off. Good luck either way.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I feel your pain , and I'm sorry I can't help with your currant issue ........... Your problem is a perfect example of why I have mechanical PULL wires connected to my Frunk & Seat latches ..... Asking the ignition switch to do more than make the Electrical connection makes NO sense to me ...... If you want more info let me know ..... it was easy to do .... Mike

[UtahPete]

I feel your pain , and I'm sorry I can't help with your currant issue ........... Your problem is a perfect example of why I have mechanical PULL wires connected to my Frunk & Seat latches ..... Asking the ignition switch to do more than make the Electrical connection makes NO sense to me ...... If you want more info let me know ..... it was easy to do .... Mike

Lew (kaos) showed me his and I'll definitely add those once I can open the frunk and seat!

[SpyderAnn01]

That’s a good suggestion to ditch the key holder.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Lew (kaos) showed me his and I'll definitely add those once I can open the frunk and seat!

I have Un-latched both of them in emergencies - not easy , but it can be done without damaging anything ..... Mike

[UtahPete]

Sorry I'm not sure how to help, but what did come to mind is the key holder thing on your key. Maybe it is preventing the key from going all the way down into the chamber, and not letting the pins move/release. I know I had a hand made key holder made out of leather that did not allow the key to go all the way in, and had to trim some off. Good luck either way.

I appreciate the suggestion, but that's not it. There is adequate clearance for the key to enter the ignition switch fully without interference. Thanks.

[Highwayman2013]

You could try some WD-40

[Bfromla]

This might be weird but it's worth a shot ...... Similar thing happened to me , I was in panic mode, key was jammed , I actually just turned the wheels in harder turn and the key released ........

Thanks. The key actually will go in and out of the ignition switch quite readily. It's just that once it is it won't turn in either direction.

Are you saying that when your key jammed, the wheels were in normal driving position and to release the key you turned the handlebars hard left or right? Worth a try although I can't quite visualize what that is doing mechanically with the ignition switch.

Think they are describing as if the bars were turned into the fork lock position at one point. If the lock was on there may be enough force on pin to prevent the key from turning hope that is all it really is

[finless]

Alas seems your key switch is bad. Some 2014's this was a known issue. Dealer time and I think they will have to rekey the trunk too.
Make sure they give you the new trailer key barrel incase you ever buy a trailer.

Bob

[UtahPete]

Alas seems your key switch is bad. Some 2014's this was a known issue. Dealer time and I think they will have to rekey the trunk too.
Make sure they give you the new trailer key barrel incase you ever buy a trailer.

Bob

It sure seems that way, Bob. Headed over there this morning.

[Saluda]

You could try some WD-40

He tried that.

Good luck, keep us posted.

[pegasus1300]

Good luck Pete. maybe yours will be one of the recall switches and they will do it under the recall.

[Chasinsparks]

Mike

I would appreciate you showing or explaining what you did for the Pulls.

I feel your pain , and I'm sorry I can't help with your currant issue ........... Your problem is a perfect example of why I have mechanical PULL wires connected to my Frunk & Seat latches ..... Asking the ignition switch to do more than make the Electrical connection makes NO sense to me ...... If you want more info let me know ..... it was easy to do .... Mike

[UtahPete]

Okay, last night I was concerned that I couldn't access the battery compartment to put a tender on the battery and with being unable to switch off the lights, the battery was going to be dead by morning.

More out of frustration than anything else, I took the mallet I'd been using to tap on the switch housing (in the hopes of loosening up the tumblers if that was the problem) and beat down on the key. Voila! It went in far enough as to engage the frunk latch release and I was able to hook up the battery charger. Then, it occurred to me the lights had gone off; the mechanism had become unjammed and the switch had returned to the 'off' position!

I tested it a few times and the key did turn the ignition on and off just like normal. Depressed the key and it opened the frunk and the seat - even easier than it had ever done before!

So, for now, the bike is back to being fully operational and I don't need to rush into an expensive repair (although I'll definitely replace the switch before any long trips).

In the Navy, we used to jokingly say, when confronted with an obstinate piece of electronic equipment that wasn't yielding to normal troubleshooting; "you're not using a big enough hammer". Never thought for a moment it might have some merit!

So, when all else fails 'use a bigger hammer'

[pegasus1300]

Lends new meaning to the old DOS command of "hit any key to continue". Glad it worked for you. Now before it quits working again add those emergency releases for seat and frunk

[UtahPete]

Lends new meaning to the old DOS command of "hit any key to continue". Glad it worked for you. Now before it quits working again add those emergency releases for seat and frunk

Yep, that project has now moved to the top of my priority list for BOTH bikes!

[LJspydee]

Sounds like I should start carrying a hammer! I've already installed a manual cable release for the frunk after having locked the key in the frunk 35 miles from home. Wife left her key at home. Luckily we have good friends.

[UtahPete]

Sounds like I should start carrying a hammer! I've already installed a manual cable release for the frunk after having locked the key in the frunk 35 miles from home. Wife left her key at home. Luckily we have good friends.

I'm thinking I can never have enough tools!