Wiring question

[Jetfixer]

Does anyone know what the "PAC Option Output" means on a 2015 RT Wiring Diagram? This is a option on a circuit that is enabled by the Load Shedding Relay, from the F8 fuse position, from the Right Fuse Box. The manual lists the F8 fuse position as "unused". I need a 12v source that is powered through the load shedding relay, so that it is only "hot" when the engine is running. If this feed is actually in the wiring harness, it is a light green with gray stripe wire.

[Bigmo]

Does anyone know what the "PAC Option Output" means on a 2015 RT Wiring Diagram? This is a option on a circuit that is enabled by the Load Shedding Relay, from the F8 fuse position, from the Right Fuse Box. The manual lists the F8 fuse position as "unused". I need a 12v source that is powered through the load shedding relay, so that it is only "hot" when the engine is running. If this feed is actually in the wiring harness, it is a light green with gray stripe wire.

Position 8 (not used) cannot be used. If you look closer, you will that there only on pin at the top, so fuse cannot be used. I used fuse 6 (Hot/Key) with an adapter. You can get those at E-Bay. This allows you to put in two fuses, one to replace the one you removed and another for the load. Tap-A-Fuse.jpg

[billybovine]

Does anyone know what the "PAC Option Output" means on a 2015 RT Wiring Diagram? This is a option on a circuit that is enabled by the Load Shedding Relay, from the F8 fuse position, from the Right Fuse Box. The manual lists the F8 fuse position as "unused". I need a 12v source that is powered through the load shedding relay, so that it is only "hot" when the engine is running. If this feed is actually in the wiring harness, it is a light green with gray stripe wire.

If you look on the wiring diagram again. That connector is labeled RFB. Meaning that connector is the Right Fuse Box. Sorry.

How much power do you need. The accessory circuit has a 5 amp fuse. That's the plug in rear trunk and the optional one in the front truck. Even if you don't have the front one the wires are there.

[billybovine]

Position 8 (not used) cannot be used. If you look closer, you will that there only on pin at the top, so fuse cannot be used. I used fuse 6 (Hot/Key) with an adapter. You can get those at E-Bay. This allows you to put in two fuses, one to replace the one you removed and another for the load. Tap-A-Fuse.jpg

I would not recommend that. Both fuse boxes are in a wet area. Enough folks complain about water in the fuse boxes without poking a hole in it, to get another wire out.

[Bigmo]

I would not recommend that. Both fuse boxes are in a wet area. Enough folks complain about water in the fuse boxes without poking a hole in it, to get another wire out.

No holes poked in here. Once installed, I push the wire behind the fuse block and fished it on the left side where I put my relay. It can be done with a little patience. Covers are back up.

[Jetfixer]

Thank you all for the replies, but fuse F6 is hot with the key on. I need a circuit that is delayed until after engine start; which is what the load shed relay accomplishes. This is what the F8 position "would" do if there was a complete fuse holder there. I confirmed this works by making a test lead by drilling a small hole in one leg of a 3 amp fuse, soldering a wire to that leg, and plugging the fuse into the F8 position. As per the service manual, this temporary circuit is only powered after the engine goes above 600 rpm, and drops off when the engine goes below 600 rpm. Exactly what I need for a hardwired dashcam system that does not like to see the voltage drop during engine start. Now I just need to figure out how to make a more permanent (safe and fused) wire.

[billybovine]

Some accessories are under the load shedding relay. For example both the front and rear heated grips. Also the fog lights. If you don't have one or more of those accessories. You could just plug a wire with a spade connector into the switch connector. Under the handlebars.

[Bigmo]

Thank you all for the replies, but fuse F6 is hot with the key on. I need a circuit that is delayed until after engine start; which is what the load shed relay accomplishes. This is what the F8 position "would" do if there was a complete fuse holder there. I confirmed this works by making a test lead by drilling a small hole in one leg of a 3 amp fuse, soldering a wire to that leg, and plugging the fuse into the F8 position. As per the service manual, this temporary circuit is only powered after the engine goes above 600 rpm, and drops off when the engine goes below 600 rpm. Exactly what I need for a hardwired dashcam system that does not like to see the voltage drop during engine start. Now I just need to figure out how to make a more permanent (safe and fused) wire.

Not sure what dashcam you have, but my dashcam turns ON automatically as soon as ignition is ON and shuts OFF when ignition is off. It is wired through the F6 fuse.
Certainly, your camera should have a CAR mode. Check the setup.

[Jetfixer]

Not sure what dashcam you have, but my dashcam turns ON automatically as soon as ignition is ON and shuts OFF when ignition is off. It is wired through the F6 fuse.
Certainly, your camera should have a CAR mode. Check the setup.

I have the Innovv K1 system. What you described is exactly how it is wired in now. However, it seems to be susceptible to the voltage drop when the starter engages, and will occasionally go into a failure loop upon shutdown that can only be fixed by sticking a paper clip in the small recessed reset hole. The manufacturer is aware of this issue. Their fix was to send me a time delay power adapter. However, the power adapter is only rated for 2 amp output and their system wants a 3 amp output. (found this out the hard way). And either way, their time delay would still power the dashcam up sometimes before I got through the warning screen and started the engine on the Spyder. What's really weird is that Innovv's non-time delay power adapter is rated for 3 amp. That's why I want to use the Spyder Load Shed Relay to trigger power up.

[Bigmo]

I have the Innovv K1 system. What you described is exactly how it is wired in now. However, it seems to be susceptible to the voltage drop when the starter engages, and will occasionally go into a failure loop upon shutdown that can only be fixed by sticking a paper clip in the small recessed reset hole. The manufacturer is aware of this issue. Their fix was to send me a time delay power adapter. However, the power adapter is only rated for 2 amp output and their system wants a 3 amp output. (found this out the hard way). And either way, their time delay would still power the dashcam up sometimes before I got through the warning screen and started the engine on the Spyder. What's really weird is that Innovv's non-time delay power adapter is rated for 3 amp. That's why I want to use the Spyder Load Shed Relay to trigger power up.

Can you install a small switch to turn off power to the camera while starting the engine then back on? Looks like a pretty sensitive camera. Looked at reviews and 53% are 1 or 2 stars. This company needs to improve their products. Good luck resolving the issue.

[Jetfixer]

Can you install a small switch to turn off power to the camera while starting the engine then back on? Looks like a pretty sensitive camera. Looked at reviews and 53% are 1 or 2 stars. This company needs to improve their products. Good luck resolving the issue.

That's what I'm using now. It's just that I wanted it to be automatic. If I forget to go through the sequence right, I have to be at one with the paper clip at shutdown!

[Flamewinger]

I’m confused, (no pun intended). On my 2018 RT L, fuse 6 is hot with key off and fuse 7 is hot also with the key off but from the bottom terminal only. They are both not hot with the key on. I’m trying to install a Waylens Secure 360 and it needs hot all the time and a trigger hot connection when I turn the key on.

The fuse use box says F6 should be hot with key on but mine is hot when off.

Plus, how do you run wire behind the fuse box?