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Sway bar or new front shocks
Hi everyone,
In my last question I did asked something about sports mode. Had a great and helpful reaction (thanks)...
I am not sure what to do.
Buy new front (and back) shocks, of choose for the Sway bar (bajaron) and "only" a new back shock?
I drive my daytona pretty to the limits but ending up in the safety zone from the engine every 2 minutes :-)
What do you think?
Swaybar or new front shocks for a better drive?
Regards Rob
ps sorry for my bad English writing.
Last edited by magic machine; 05-19-2018 at 10:16 AM.
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Very Active Member
Depends...
I like to go step by step. In the end for the full on best handling you should do both but start with the sway bar and then ryde it for a few hundred mile on all types of roads and see if you need to go further. If you haven't yet get the laser alignment as well as the spyders tend to be out from the factory...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Reply
I have two f3s’s a 15 with a RT sway bar, and a 16 with up grade fox shock , podium 2 I believe. They both have fox rear shock. They ride quite similarly, the swaybar hold its line slightly better thru a curve.
I defently needed the upgrade swaybar on my 15 to compliment my riding style, likewise I have never felt the need to upgrade the swaybar with the podium 2 shocks.
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Originally Posted by Malathion
I have two f3s’s a 15 with a RT sway bar, and a 16 with up grade fox shock , podium 2 I believe. They both have fox rear shock. They ride quite similarly, the swaybar hold its line slightly better thru a curve. I defently needed the upgrade swaybar on my 15 to compliment my riding style, likewise I have never felt the need to upgrade the swaybar with the podium 2 shocks.
Thank you for this. I have held off installing a sway bar on my magnesium RT because I wanted to get the most bang for the buck. I was willing to spend the money on shocks if it provided a significant improvement in handling. On the other hand, why spend that much money if the sway bar gave the same amount of improvement.
I feel the jury is still out on this one, so I'm watching with interest.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Like anything, suspension upgrades follow the 80/20 rule.
You get 80% of the benefits for the first 20% of the cost.
The RonBar for a few hundred dollars will give you the biggest bang for the buck and give you 80% improvement.
Ride after you replaced the bar and see if it's good enough for you.
If not, then the suspension upgrades follow the same BOAT principle that follows in sailing.
Break Out Another Thousand.
The Elka shocks are an improvement, but very expensive.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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Originally Posted by ThreeWheels
Like anything, suspension upgrades follow the 80/20 rule.
You get 80% of the benefits for the first 20% of the cost.
The RonBar for a few hundred dollars will give you the biggest bang for the buck and give you 80% improvement.
Ride after you replaced the bar and see if it's good enough for you.
If not, then the suspension upgrades follow the same BOAT principle that follows in sailing.
Break Out Another Thousand.
The Elka shocks are an improvement, but very expensive.
Well said. Thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Malathion
I have two f3s’s a 15 with a RT sway bar, and a 16 with up grade fox shock , podium 2 I believe. They both have fox rear shock. They ride quite similarly, the swaybar hold its line slightly better thru a curve.
I defently needed the upgrade swaybar on my 15 to compliment my riding style, likewise I have never felt the need to upgrade the swaybar with the podium 2 shocks.
The sway bar on all F3 models is the same. BRP has not changed them. The difference you feel in handling is due to improved shock function.
Shocks and sway bars work together towards the same goal. But each does so in a completely different way. So, done correctly, they complement each other to give you both great handling and a very nice ride. Because of this, improving 1 will usually improve the function of the other. But attempting to correct a weak sway bar with shocks only can leave you with a harsh ride and still not give you all the handling improvements you're looking for.
Installing an OEM RT bar on the other Spyder models will give you a fair amount of improvement. But the OEM RT bar is weaker than the bar I make for the RS/RSS/ST/F3 models. Though usually a less expensive approach. You will get about 50-60% of the potential sway bar improvement going this route.
People are always asking me what the diameter of my bar is. And while diameter does make a difference. There is a lot more to a sway bar than diameter.
There are 3 parameters which determine how a particular sway bar will function. Only one of these is diameter. The other 2 are quality of the spring steel, and arm length. With a sway bar as small as that on the Spyder. A small change in any one of these 3 parameters can make a big difference in functionality. Without knowing all 3, it is impossible to compare one sway bar to another simply by any single dimension.
Last edited by BajaRon; 05-19-2018 at 02:58 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
The sway bar on all F3 models is the same. BRP has not changed them. The difference you feel in handling is due to improved shock function.
Shocks and sway bars work together towards the same goal. But each does so in a completely different way. So, done correctly, they complement each other to give you both great handling and a very nice ride. Because of this, improving 1 will usually improve the function of the other. But attempting to correct a weak sway bar with shocks only can leave you with a harsh ride and still not give you all the handling improvements you're looking for.
Installing an OEM RT bar on the other Spyder models will give you a fair amount of improvement. But the OEM RT bar is weaker than the bar I make for the RS/RSS/ST/F3 models. Though usually a less expensive approach. You will get about 50-60% of the potential sway bar improvement going this route.
People are always asking me what the diameter of my bar is. And while diameter does make a difference. There is a lot more to a sway bar than diameter.
There are 3 parameters which determine how a particular sway bar will function. Only one of these is diameter. The other 2 are quality of the spring steel, and arm length. With a sway bar as small as that on the Spyder. A small change in any one of these 3 parameters can make a big difference in functionality. Without knowing all 3, it is impossible to compare one sway bar to another simply by any single dimension.
Very helpful Ron. Thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Very helpful Ron. Thanks.
I appreciate the kind words.
I always feel that the more you know. The better the results...
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I appreciate the kind words.
I always feel that the more you know. The better the results...
That's the same premise I've been operating on most of my life. Never regretted it
2014 RTL Platinum
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Active Member
2016 F3T with Baja Ron Sway bar
On My side, I had the same interrogation.
I finally put a BajaRon and the difference is really good.
The Spyder has a lot less leaning in curves and seems to be more stable on high speed and on high wind.
But I aslo had a laser alignment so I did 2 things at the same time. Is improved stability caused by the Sway Bar or alignment ???
But, I really think that the improved cornering stability is made by the Sway Bar, which is really nice.
What I'd like to do is put 2 Elka Shock on it, test it and repeat with the original Sway Bar. I think it's the only way to really compare and see what is making the best. But I don't think it's gonna happens. Wife already think I put to much $$$ on it considering it's already a $$$ toy
X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner
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Very Active Member
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If you have lots of money do both. If you don't, I would start with the swaybar and see how she rides. Its a cheap mod for all that it does.
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