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  1. #26
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I'm betting it would have fit without the insulation ....... Mike
    No, I did strip the end. Doesn't it show that?
    2014 RTL Platinum


  2. #27
    Very Active Member HayRog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    .....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike
    X 3 on what Mike says, and adding that Zip's idea is also excellent. Whatever works

  3. #28
    Active Member Dmetcalf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2 View Post
    I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
    Does your seat stay in the down position when you aren't on it with the locking stud missing ..? I like the idea but was just curious...
    Thanks
    2016 RT-Ltd
    Bajaron swaybar
    Spyderpops trunk light
    Elka stage 2 front shocks
    Extra longbrake pedal
    brake modulator
    Centramatic wheel balancers on the front and rear.
    Rivco dual flag holder
    Tricled mirror turn signal indicators
    with American and Texas flags
    Lamonster Magic Mirrors
    missing belt guard
    Lambskin seat cover from Smokey mountain sheepskin.com
    Tricled 360 degree led Headlights
    Lamonster led fog lights
    Baker air wings
    2019 Silverado Duramax dually
    2019 Cyclone 4007 toyhauler
    Spyderpops bumpskid w led light
    Rivco brand footrest
    spydermanexhaust.com exhaust
    had my exhaust installed @ Spyder in the hills.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Flanker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zip View Post
    After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.



    Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
    I suppose it would be easier on the Spyder than a .45 slug.

    Thanks for the tip!

    2018 F3 S, BRP SS Grill, Spoiler, Attitude Bars, #1 linkage kit, Chopped R Fender, TBR S1R slip On exhaust, Elka Stage 2 R Shock, Shad saddlebags

  5. #30
    Active Member davehirst's Avatar
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    Default Stud

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike
    I just ground the nub off of the end of the stud. The stud stays there to keep the seat positioned, but doesn't require a pull wire or key cable. Just lift the seat.
    2015 RT S , None Tried one, but took it off. Didn't like it Black and Silver

  6. #31
    Active Member SpyderNeil's Avatar
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    Default My Cable Release

    Was inspired by Zip, and had a look in my junk drawers. I found this steel cable that had an end on it already, so I cut and crimped it to come up with this:
    Cable Seat Release.jpg
    Works like a charm!

    Neil
    2020 Harley Davidson Tri Glide Ultra
    2017 F3-T SE6 White / BRP Backrest / Nuvi 58 LM / Polaris Spring Spacers / CALSCI 22" Shield
    2016 RTE6 , Black

  7. #32
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmetcalf View Post
    Does your seat stay in the down position when you aren't on it with the locking stud missing ..? I like the idea but was just curious...
    Thanks
    Not if you use one of these! Sachs SG359011 gas strut.

    31xZMhBLOHL.jpg
    This strut holds my seat up even when my helmet and jacket are on it, or if my back seat luggage on it! When there's nothing on the seat and I turn the key, a little jiggle and the seat flies up!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #33
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default PAST INFO POST

    Quote Originally Posted by davehirst View Post
    I just ground the nub off of the end of the stud. The stud stays there to keep the seat positioned, but doesn't require a pull wire or key cable. Just lift the seat.
    ....I'm glad you found that old post ...that OEM POST has more than one reason for being there ..... Mike

  9. #34
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    Default Seat release

    Quote Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2 View Post
    I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
    Me too
    Loving the RYDE

  10. #35
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default ME TOO

    Quote Originally Posted by bzbaeren View Post
    Me too
    I guess you didn't see His post about putting it back ...... after He read my post about why it's necessary ....... Mike

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