After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.
That's a great idea, one that I will be replicating ASAP.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.
Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
Push or pull? Looks like a pull system never had to fool with yet, key has worked fine but always handy to know. SS wire say from a wire welder? If so great I have some from my dads don't know the diameter, what about bailing wire? Been recommended by bunch of 2wheel buds.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Push or pull? Looks like a pull system never had to fool with yet, key has worked fine but always handy to know. SS wire say from a wire welder? If so great I have some from my dads don't know the diameter, what about bailing wire? Been recommended by bunch of 2wheel buds.
.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike
That's what I did put it on the seat and the front trunk
.....Good for you .... I realized this as a problem a couple of years ago .../..so I made a very thin cable pull for that latch ...... I vended a few at Spyderquest .......... you should put one on the FRUNK also ...it's easy ....... Mike
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.
Photos aren't the best but you get the idea. It works like a charm.
Zip, great simple idea, MAN that is one well worn beadrider.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020
I just took a tie strap to the cable and hold the latch catch over and don't have to unlock anything. Took all of two minutes to do. Not the least bit worried about anybody stealing my gas or putting something in the tank. Do people even do that type thing anymore? They just rob you or carjack you.
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BRP paid lots of people big bucks to engineer this machine. There is more signs of intelligence on this forum than anywhere else! Love this idea. I’ll be working on this tomorrow. Thanks for posting!
If you don't change anything,,, nothing is going to change!
Have seen mostly the permanent hidden pulls. Have seen folks take the pin out and have a non-locking seat. But always nice to have a tool that way you can help your fellow ryder. I just carry two keys... will make one up cause not many do..
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I just took a tie strap to the cable and hold the latch catch over and don't have to unlock anything. Took all of two minutes to do. Not the least bit worried about anybody stealing my gas or putting something in the tank. Do people even do that type thing anymore? They just rob you or carjack you.
I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
I went one step further and just removed the stud from the seat altogether. I think I'll make one of these releases for the frunk though. Thanks for the post
Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
2012 RT-622 trailer viper red
2014 Look 7x12 motorcycle trailer silver and black
2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
BRP paid lots of people big bucks to engineer this machine. There is more signs of intelligence on this forum than anywhere else! Love this idea. I’ll be working on this tomorrow. Thanks for posting!
After reading about seats not opening the other day I decided to be proactive and make a tool to do the job now as opposed to trying to fabricate something on the road while almost out of fuel. I will keep in in my trunk in case myself or someone I am with has the issue while riding.
Actually that " STUD " serves another function .... and this I learned from someone else's Bad experience ..... that Stud is a locator for EXACTLY where the seat pan will Position ... when it is down. Since the for and aft movement of the seat can be adjusted .... without that STUD, the seat can actually slide forward .....if this occurs ( and I know it can ) your seat will rub on your gas tank ( on an RT ) .....this can and will damage the paint ....... just a heads - up ........... Mike ......PS what I did on mine was , I wired the LATCH mechanism so it wasn't fully closed ..... It will catch when I close he seat and it stays down ....however a slight upward tug on the seat flap will release it ........ Mike
I changed my thinking based on your advice Mike I put the stud back in and just tied the latch mechanism back. Never even considered that gthe stud holds the alignment of the seat.
Ditto. I had some 14 gauge solid house wire so I used that. Works well, but doesn't need to be that heavy. I had to drill a hole in that metal piece where the OEM cable terminates, because the existing hole wasn't big enough for that large a wire.
l don't remember the part # off hand but I replaced the gas strut on my seat with a stronger one. I believe Mike, BlueKnight911, was the one who gave us the part # one time. It works great and can lift the seat with my helmet and jacket on it.
It can be a pain to find just the right spot but I would strongly suggest you all go through the process of getting the stud positioned just right so it goes in and out of the latch smoothly. When it's in the right spot, and with the stronger strut, as soon as I turn the key to unlock the seat it rises up on its own!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Ditto. I had some 14 gauge solid house wire so I used that. Works well, but doesn't need to be that heavy. I had to drill a hole in that metal piece where the OEM cable terminates, because the existing hole wasn't big enough for that large a wire.
Seat release tool
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Originally Posted by bscofield84
Push or pull? Looks like a pull system
never had to fool with yet, key has worked fine
