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  1. #1
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Default Trying to fix LED. Don’t know what I’m doing

    Really have no idea what I’m doing. First found the short and led came back on and then some how shorted both led on both tires while messing with the wires on the left tire
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  2. #2
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    Wow!
    LEDs aren't like "normal" bulbs. They need to have their leads properly connected to hotm, and ground...
    If by "shorted": you mean that they're not lighting.. try reversing your leads!
    Good luck!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
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    If both wires are black one should have a white stripe and that one is the positive. Spyders have black wires as ground so black to black and blk/wht to whatever the hot wire is for that fender light.
    2021 F3 Ltd , Magna Red

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    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    It went into limp mode home mode
    Ok. Disconnected the running lights and it ran fine for a mile then went back into limp mode which I figured.


    Probably because the running lights were disconnected.


    Now out of curiosity I reconnected the one side that was good before I shorted out the other side. It still doesn’t come back on.

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    Please take it to someone who knows what they are doing. That picture is a mess of wire and electric tape and should never be installed that way.

    You could cause more damage then good.

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    When I am installing something that I got cheaper, got from someone that decided not to use it or made myself, I look for similar things that might have instructions. Not sure if you bought these or are adding your own.

    http://spyderpops.com/fender-groove-...ip-led-lights/
    2021 F3 Ltd , Magna Red

  7. #7
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    When I am installing something that I got cheaper, got from someone that decided not to use it or made myself, I look for similar things that might have instructions. Not sure if you bought these or are adding your own.

    http://spyderpops.com/fender-groove-...ip-led-lights/
    I believe that’s what’s on it. Looks like the wires weee spliced into the running lights. Now does the the running lights have a fuse somewhere?

  8. #8
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Also if I kept the led would be nice to keep my current color of purple

  9. #9
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    The location you show on your Spyder is for an OEM incandescent light. The factory design already has a 12v source to a fixture in that location.
    Take heart. This should be a relatively easy job.
    Did you do that splice job ?
    All that tape and splicing is a very poor job. Probably wires twisted together and then wrapped in too much tape.
    The twisted wires are subject to moisture and can cause too much resistance, stopping the flow of electricity.
    The first thing I recommend is get access to an electrical tester.
    AND a soldering iron.
    Next, I'd take my LED and connect them to a 12 v source directly to make sure they still work.
    You should be able to use your new electrical tester to confirm the + and - terminals of your 12v source. This way you can make sure you'r not using a dead battery.
    As others have said, the LED is dependent on getting the + and - on the correct terminals. If the lights don't work, try reversing the polarity.
    God knows, reversing the polarity always worked on Star Trek.
    If they still don't work, and you've confirmed the 12v source is active, then the LEDs are broken and you have to get new ones.
    If they do wok, I'd make sure that I clearly marked which wire I connected to the + terminal during the successful trial. I usually use a small piece of tape with enough left over to make a tab, and mark it with a + or -.
    Next, I'd start working om the messed up connections at the fenders.
    Remove all the spliced pieces of wire, right down to the Factory harness.
    If you don't have enough space to hook the new light fixture up, you'll need to make a correct splice.
    Using your electrical tester, find the + and - wires and mark them. You'll have to turn your Spyder on in order to get the voltage on the harness connections.
    Turn the bike off, and then connect the lights up, making sure you have the + to the + and the - to the -.
    Turn the bike back on, and the lights should come on.
    Shut the bike off, and then solder the splice to make sure you maintain a good connection. You can then put the tape back on to cover the splice.

    Do the same on the other side.
    One point: When I replaced my LED headlights, I found that BRP had mysteriously reversed the + and the -, so you'll need to confirm the polarity first when working on the opposite side.

    I know it's been long winded, but I hope this helps.
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  10. #10
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    The location you show on your Spyder is for an OEM incandescent light. The factory design already has a 12v source to a fixture in that location.
    Take heart. This should be a relatively easy job.
    Did you do that splice job ?
    All that tape and splicing is a very poor job. Probably wires twisted together and then wrapped in too much tape.
    The twisted wires are subject to moisture and can cause too much resistance, stopping the flow of electricity.
    The first thing I recommend is get access to an electrical tester.
    AND a soldering iron.
    Next, I'd take my LED and connect them to a 12 v source directly to make sure they still work.
    You should be able to use your new electrical tester to confirm the + and - terminals of your 12v source. This way you can make sure you'r not using a dead battery.
    As others have said, the LED is dependent on getting the + and - on the correct terminals. If the lights don't work, try reversing the polarity.
    God knows, reversing the polarity always worked on Star Trek.
    If they still don't work, and you've confirmed the 12v source is active, then the LEDs are broken and you have to get new ones.
    If they do wok, I'd make sure that I clearly marked which wire I connected to the + terminal during the successful trial. I usually use a small piece of tape with enough left over to make a tab, and mark it with a + or -.
    Next, I'd start working om the messed up connections at the fenders.
    Remove all the spliced pieces of wire, right down to the Factory harness.
    If you don't have enough space to hook the new light fixture up, you'll need to make a correct splice.
    Using your electrical tester, find the + and - wires and mark them. You'll have to turn your Spyder on in order to get the voltage on the harness connections.
    Turn the bike off, and then connect the lights up, making sure you have the + to the + and the - to the -.
    Turn the bike back on, and the lights should come on.
    Shut the bike off, and then solder the splice to make sure you maintain a good connection. You can then put the tape back on to cover the splice.

    Do the same on the other side.
    One point: When I replaced my LED headlights, I found that BRP had mysteriously reversed the + and the -, so you'll need to confirm the polarity first when working on the opposite side.

    I know it's been long winded, but I hope this helps.

    Bike came with with it already done. See it all worked well. Then the light one started flickering on and off. So figured a loose wire. The right still worked great. When you hit a bump the left would come on and go right back off. So yesterday took what you saw out and moved some wires around and the LED came on and stayed on! So was trying to clean up the tape mess and 2 wires touched and made a burning smell and the other side of the bike LED went off and hasn’t came back on yet. Looked under bike and disconnected the running lights but it still puts it in “limp mode home”.

  11. #11
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Also has anyone took off their glo Ryder cap before? I can’t find the screw or whatever holds it on so I can replace the battery and for the first time see what color it is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    Please take it to someone who knows what they are doing. That picture is a mess of wire and electric tape and should never be installed that way.

    You could cause more damage then good.
    Yes that is really a nasty job of wiring. Who ever done it that way needs to be kicked in the gonads till they scream like a cheerleader at a high school football game. Just saying. Good luck.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    Also has anyone took off their glo Ryder cap before? I can’t find the screw or whatever holds it on so I can replace the battery and for the first time see what color it is.
    They use an Allen Wrench and Phillips Screwdrivers. Good luck getting it out if it’s been on there a long time you may need a slide hammer to remove them.

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  14. #14
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    I fixed it. Basically. Someone rigged it up with all this unnecessary wires. Took that off and just plug the 2 together and bam fixed. Now I need a new fender white tip. The one side has it. The other it has the clear case. Just no led bulb in it or the connection

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    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    They use an Allen Wrench and Phillips Screwdrivers. Good luck getting it out if it’s been on there a long time you may need a slide hammer to remove them.
    on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    I fixed it. Basically. Someone rigged it up with all this unnecessary wires. Took that off and just plug the 2 together and bam fixed. Now I need a new fender white tip. The one side has it. The other it has the clear case. Just no led bulb in it or the connection
    Glad to hear that you found the fix!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  17. #17
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.

    Ugh. That's nasty.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.

    GloRyder is coming out with new self powering lights. You can also but insert replacements that use batteries and a remote to change colors. gloryder.com

    Also blue lights are illegal unless you're in a parade or are police.
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  19. #19
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    So I want a one of these because one side has it and other side doesn’t. But the side doesn’t doesn’t even have the connector that goes into LeD. So not sure where I can buy the connector out
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default LED

    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    So I want a one of these because one side has it and other side doesn’t. But the side doesn’t doesn’t even have the connector that goes into LeD. So not sure where I can buy the connector out
    If I understand what you want based on ....... you want /need an LED strip that matches and one side does NOT have a connector .............. the strips are easy to find and you can just hard wire it in or plastic snap splices to the OEM wiring ........ I think you will have to remove the fender to get to wires up at that light ....... Mike

  21. #21
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    If I understand what you want based on ....... you want /need an LED strip that matches and one side does NOT have a connector .............. the strips are easy to find and you can just hard wire it in or plastic snap splices to the OEM wiring ........ I think you will have to remove the fender to get to wires up at that light ....... Mike
    This is what I need. See the black connector that goes in the tip light. Doing all I can to win this car/bike show coming up


    https://www.ebay.com/i/202234243781?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frov er.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww .ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F202234243781%25253Fchn%252 53Dps%2526itemid%253D202234243781%2526targetid%253 D412963629085%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla% 2526googleloc%253D9010614%2526poi%253D%2526campaig nid%253D1058346141%2526adgroupid%253D54502472120%2 526rlsatarget%253Dpla-412963629085%2526abcId%253D1133846%2526merchantid% 253D108572100%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI7quI8I_W2g IV0IKzCh3_EAFdEAQYASABEgI2qPD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D7 11-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1510483780797%2526rvr_ts%253Dfe3b 49f41620aa42f921eac1fff59616

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