Really have no idea what I’m doing. First found the short and led came back on and then some how shorted both led on both tires while messing with the wires on the left tire
Wow!
LEDs aren't like "normal" bulbs. They need to have their leads properly connected to hotm, and ground...
If by "shorted": you mean that they're not lighting.. try reversing your leads!
Good luck!
If both wires are black one should have a white stripe and that one is the positive. Spyders have black wires as ground so black to black and blk/wht to whatever the hot wire is for that fender light.
When I am installing something that I got cheaper, got from someone that decided not to use it or made myself, I look for similar things that might have instructions. Not sure if you bought these or are adding your own.
When I am installing something that I got cheaper, got from someone that decided not to use it or made myself, I look for similar things that might have instructions. Not sure if you bought these or are adding your own.
The location you show on your Spyder is for an OEM incandescent light. The factory design already has a 12v source to a fixture in that location.
Take heart. This should be a relatively easy job.
Did you do that splice job ?
All that tape and splicing is a very poor job. Probably wires twisted together and then wrapped in too much tape.
The twisted wires are subject to moisture and can cause too much resistance, stopping the flow of electricity.
The first thing I recommend is get access to an electrical tester.
AND a soldering iron.
Next, I'd take my LED and connect them to a 12 v source directly to make sure they still work.
You should be able to use your new electrical tester to confirm the + and - terminals of your 12v source. This way you can make sure you'r not using a dead battery.
As others have said, the LED is dependent on getting the + and - on the correct terminals. If the lights don't work, try reversing the polarity.
God knows, reversing the polarity always worked on Star Trek.
If they still don't work, and you've confirmed the 12v source is active, then the LEDs are broken and you have to get new ones.
If they do wok, I'd make sure that I clearly marked which wire I connected to the + terminal during the successful trial. I usually use a small piece of tape with enough left over to make a tab, and mark it with a + or -.
Next, I'd start working om the messed up connections at the fenders.
Remove all the spliced pieces of wire, right down to the Factory harness.
If you don't have enough space to hook the new light fixture up, you'll need to make a correct splice.
Using your electrical tester, find the + and - wires and mark them. You'll have to turn your Spyder on in order to get the voltage on the harness connections.
Turn the bike off, and then connect the lights up, making sure you have the + to the + and the - to the -.
Turn the bike back on, and the lights should come on.
Shut the bike off, and then solder the splice to make sure you maintain a good connection. You can then put the tape back on to cover the splice.
Do the same on the other side.
One point: When I replaced my LED headlights, I found that BRP had mysteriously reversed the + and the -, so you'll need to confirm the polarity first when working on the opposite side.
I know it's been long winded, but I hope this helps.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
The location you show on your Spyder is for an OEM incandescent light. The factory design already has a 12v source to a fixture in that location.
Take heart. This should be a relatively easy job.
Did you do that splice job ?
All that tape and splicing is a very poor job. Probably wires twisted together and then wrapped in too much tape.
The twisted wires are subject to moisture and can cause too much resistance, stopping the flow of electricity.
The first thing I recommend is get access to an electrical tester.
AND a soldering iron.
Next, I'd take my LED and connect them to a 12 v source directly to make sure they still work.
You should be able to use your new electrical tester to confirm the + and - terminals of your 12v source. This way you can make sure you'r not using a dead battery.
As others have said, the LED is dependent on getting the + and - on the correct terminals. If the lights don't work, try reversing the polarity.
God knows, reversing the polarity always worked on Star Trek.
If they still don't work, and you've confirmed the 12v source is active, then the LEDs are broken and you have to get new ones.
If they do wok, I'd make sure that I clearly marked which wire I connected to the + terminal during the successful trial. I usually use a small piece of tape with enough left over to make a tab, and mark it with a + or -.
Next, I'd start working om the messed up connections at the fenders.
Remove all the spliced pieces of wire, right down to the Factory harness.
If you don't have enough space to hook the new light fixture up, you'll need to make a correct splice.
Using your electrical tester, find the + and - wires and mark them. You'll have to turn your Spyder on in order to get the voltage on the harness connections.
Turn the bike off, and then connect the lights up, making sure you have the + to the + and the - to the -.
Turn the bike back on, and the lights should come on.
Shut the bike off, and then solder the splice to make sure you maintain a good connection. You can then put the tape back on to cover the splice.
Do the same on the other side.
One point: When I replaced my LED headlights, I found that BRP had mysteriously reversed the + and the -, so you'll need to confirm the polarity first when working on the opposite side.
I know it's been long winded, but I hope this helps.
Bike came with with it already done. See it all worked well. Then the light one started flickering on and off. So figured a loose wire. The right still worked great. When you hit a bump the left would come on and go right back off. So yesterday took what you saw out and moved some wires around and the LED came on and stayed on! So was trying to clean up the tape mess and 2 wires touched and made a burning smell and the other side of the bike LED went off and hasn’t came back on yet. Looked under bike and disconnected the running lights but it still puts it in “limp mode home”.
Also has anyone took off their glo Ryder cap before? I can’t find the screw or whatever holds it on so I can replace the battery and for the first time see what color it is.
Please take it to someone who knows what they are doing. That picture is a mess of wire and electric tape and should never be installed that way.
You could cause more damage then good.
Yes that is really a nasty job of wiring. Who ever done it that way needs to be kicked in the gonads till they scream like a cheerleader at a high school football game. Just saying. Good luck.
Also has anyone took off their glo Ryder cap before? I can’t find the screw or whatever holds it on so I can replace the battery and for the first time see what color it is.
They use an Allen Wrench and Phillips Screwdrivers. Good luck getting it out if it’s been on there a long time you may need a slide hammer to remove them.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
I fixed it. Basically. Someone rigged it up with all this unnecessary wires. Took that off and just plug the 2 together and bam fixed. Now I need a new fender white tip. The one side has it. The other it has the clear case. Just no led bulb in it or the connection
They use an Allen Wrench and Phillips Screwdrivers. Good luck getting it out if it’s been on there a long time you may need a slide hammer to remove them.
on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.
I fixed it. Basically. Someone rigged it up with all this unnecessary wires. Took that off and just plug the 2 together and bam fixed. Now I need a new fender white tip. The one side has it. The other it has the clear case. Just no led bulb in it or the connection
on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.
on this I just twisted it hard and it came off. It was designed just to twist off and on. But the circuit board inside was very corroded and didn’t work.
GloRyder is coming out with new self powering lights. You can also but insert replacements that use batteries and a remote to change colors. gloryder.com
Also blue lights are illegal unless you're in a parade or are police.
So I want a one of these because one side has it and other side doesn’t. But the side doesn’t doesn’t even have the connector that goes into LeD. So not sure where I can buy the connector out
So I want a one of these because one side has it and other side doesn’t. But the side doesn’t doesn’t even have the connector that goes into LeD. So not sure where I can buy the connector out
If I understand what you want based on ....... you want /need an LED strip that matches and one side does NOT have a connector .............. the strips are easy to find and you can just hard wire it in or plastic snap splices to the OEM wiring ........ I think you will have to remove the fender to get to wires up at that light ....... Mike
If I understand what you want based on ....... you want /need an LED strip that matches and one side does NOT have a connector .............. the strips are easy to find and you can just hard wire it in or plastic snap splices to the OEM wiring ........ I think you will have to remove the fender to get to wires up at that light ....... Mike
This is what I need. See the black connector that goes in the tip light. Doing all I can to win this car/bike show coming up