DPS repair

[Frig]

Hello, I wonder if it's possible to replace a DPS unit myself. My local dealer wants $1,800 and BRP won't cover it. It was already replaced under recall years ago. Thanks for any advice.

[UtahPete]

Hello, I wonder if it's possible to replace a DPS unit myself. My local dealer wants $1,800 and BRP won't cover it. It was already replaced under recall years ago. Thanks for any advice.

Sorry. What's a DPS?

With the right tools and knowledge you can do anything a dealer can do. It's not rocket science.

[Chupaca]

Get a shop manual and it will give you all the steps needed.... the one thing that you may still need the dealer for is if there is a BUDS reset. If so you can have them do that part. If not your good to go. The DPS is the expensive part around 1200.00 at cheapcycleparts.com depending on the year...

[Warlock]

Hello, I wonder if it's possible to replace a DPS unit myself. My local dealer wants $1,800 and BRP won't cover it. It was already replaced under recall years ago. Thanks for any advice.

Had mine replaced about a year ago. They had to also replace the position sensor located at the bottom of the DPS. Cost me around $1800 to $1900 for mine. I do a lot of work myself on the spyder, but this requires BUDS to set it up. I was told by the dealer if I put it in no guaranty if it didn't work I would be out the unit. So I bit my lip and let them do it. Wished I had the BUBS to do it, but a lot of money and I wouldn't use it much. Let me know how you come out on the deal. You can get the DPS here for $1090.00 dollars.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...-assembly.html
David

[Chupaca]

Sorry. What's a DPS?

With the right tools and knowledge you can do anything a dealer can do. It's not rocket science.

DPS...stands for Dynamic Power Steering... it is the electric steering assist unit. It's why they tell you to relax your grip

[Freddy]

DPS...stands for Dynamic Power Steering... it is the electric steering assist unit. It's why they tell you to relax your grip

U/Pete apparently hasn't been around Spyders long, or he's not read up on em - too busy ryding round Utah probably.



Frig, what trouble do you have that demands a new unit? Mine's about the same age with 90,000km (55,000m).

[Frig]

U/Pete apparently hasn't been around Spyders long, or he's not read up on em - too busy ryding round Utah probably.



Frig, what trouble do you have that demands a new unit? Mine's about the same age with 90,000km (55,000m).

Steering goes on and off at will. One min it’s working the next min it’s off. It’s also very “crunchy” when I turn the bars from side to side. It was replaced years ago under recall and now it’s out again. BRP is no help.

[Freddy]

Report this failure and deadly serious safety issue to NHTSA. Let them deal with BRP.

[oldguyinTX]

Report this failure and deadly serious safety issue to NHTSA. Let them deal with BRP.

Age of a vehicle makes no difference to the NHTSA board, when it comes to a safety issue. Do a VIN lookup on their site to find out if your unit was one of the ones affected. The fact that there was a recall for this issue can help you.

https://www.safercar.gov/

[Bob Denman]

Try throwing the "Safety Issue" at them, and see if it helps: good luck!

[Grandpot]

Is your DPS throwing a Code or is it just getting hard to steer or feel like it is fighting you when you try to steer. If it is the latter, clean the electrical connections at the battery and at the DPS unit.

This thing takes a lot of current to operate well. I was given this same advice and I really didn't accept it right away, but I finally did it and it worked.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

This thing takes a lot of current to operate well. I was given this same advice and I really didn't accept it right away, but I finally did it and it worked.

Frig - the above is very true. It's designed that way. Also, your determination of a crunchy sound might point to some other problem, like a bad ball joint, tie rod end, or the Pitman Arm, rather than the DPS unit. A bad / tight ball point can cause it to jerk or overcorrect on the road. Plus it all depends on the surface the front tires are on. Start with the battery connections.

The DPS system is not power steering. It's not a pump. It's just an electrical assist that is proportional to how much torque you apply to the handlebars. The amount of assist DECREASES as speed increases - not the other way around. Do you have any codes? What's the steering feel like if you jack up the front end? If you park your Spyder in the garage on a normal smoothly finished concrete floor, compare the effort needed to turn the handlebars with the motor off and then with it running. Any change? Not questioning your judgment, just want you to have all the information and save money.

[supersuk]

The DPS unit is really easy to change out yourself, but you'll have to remove the entire front of the spyder (including trunk and lower metal trunk support) and all fairings pieces from the seat forward. Then you'll have to remove two hard to get to allen head bolts that clamp the upper steering rod bearing to the frame. Then you'll need to remove one bolt located under the rubber boot that clamps the steering rod to the DPS input shaft and push the steering rod up and off the shaft. This might be a little difficult, but if I can do it with a corroded shaft, then you can do it too! Next you'll need to remove the tie rods. What I did was remove the tie rods and not the tie rod ends at the DPS and spindle. So much easier. Then you'll need to remove the right side upper a-arm from the frame. There are two or three electrical connections that need to be removed and a total of 4 bolts that need to be loosened (not taken off) at the front of the frame before you can lift the DPS up and out through the rear then from the area where the right a-arm was. Not sure if the new DPS unit comes with the position sensor attached to the DPS unit on the bottom. If it does, then installation is reverse of removal. I don't know about the BUDS part, but I do have the service manual which says you have to calibrate everything. If taking your time, you should be able to do everything within several hours. Goodluck!

[Warlock]

The DPS unit is really easy to change out yourself, but you'll have to remove the entire front of the spyder (including trunk and lower metal trunk support) and all fairings pieces from the seat forward. Then you'll have to remove two hard to get to allen head bolts that clamp the upper steering rod bearing to the frame. Then you'll need to remove one bolt located under the rubber boot that clamps the steering rod to the DPS input shaft and push the steering rod up and off the shaft. This might be a little difficult, but if I can do it with a corroded shaft, then you can do it too! Next you'll need to remove the tie rods. What I did was remove the tie rods and not the tie rod ends at the DPS and spindle. So much easier. Then you'll need to remove the right side upper a-arm from the frame. There are two or three electrical connections that need to be removed and a total of 4 bolts that need to be loosened (not taken off) at the front of the frame before you can lift the DPS up and out through the rear then from the area where the right a-arm was. Not sure if the new DPS unit comes with the position sensor attached to the DPS unit on the bottom. If it does, then installation is reverse of removal. I don't know about the BUDS part, but I do have the service manual which says you have to calibrate everything. If taking your time, you should be able to do everything within several hours. Goodluck!

The position sensor doesn't come with the DPS unit. The cost of it is around $400 more dollars.
David