No N showing when I turn on the key and it just clicks

[Philrs]

2010 RS automatic bought from insurance

Just got it out back together
Got all of the idiot lights and warnings fixed
So time to drive, sounded great pulled forward, turned left and screeching from right wheel hub. So stop turn around back to drive.
Put in reverse backed in.

As I turned off the key. I thought an oil and check engine light flashed.
Turned the key back on, pressed the mode and hit the ignition. Nothing... checked my kill switch, it was on. Then noticed no N showing neutral. And check transmission started scrolling. I bought an oil change kit. But when I bought it, it wasn't running so I just checked the dipstick. Oil showed. Ran it total of maybe 5 min including my little test run. So first thing I did, Checked oil and damm didn't even touch the dipstick. Added oil still nothing.

I read somewhere to walk away for a 15 min and see if issues clear.
Should I disconnect battery. Try to reset? Any suggestions on the starting tyranny issue

Ok.. just went back out , it's been about 15 min. No N showing clicked my paddles a few times. Pressed the r and paddle - nothing. Tried starting it earlier by pushing down on the break and nothing happened but decided to try again and it started. Pressed the + paddle and it went to neutral. Shut it off and restarted. It looks like I stuck In Reverse. But as I said earlier I was way low on oil.. so oil change after i buy another quart.

Than up on the racks to figure out what the squeel is in my right tire. Hoping its stuck breaks or bearings

Thanks
Phil bakersfield

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Some folks here deny this is even remotely possible ...... However if IMHO the battery is at a low level of charge, it may NOT have the power to enact the " N" ( ie neutral ).... I had this happen to me on the way home from the Dealer after I just bought a New RT ..... I had the battery fail , I needed a jump start from a car, then " N " came on and I could start it..... Now I always make sure it's in NEUTRAL before I shut it Off ...... I see you have the V-twin engine, the charging system on them is MARGINAL .... You have to stay above 4000 RPM's in order for the battery to charge .... there is no fix, except to accept the fact and keep it on a Maintainer when not in use...... The " walk away thing " works but you don't have too go to far..... Remove the key and take it with you, the computers will re-boot in about 5 min....the Nanny is very quirky .... It will show CODES, without there actually being true FAILURE of a part etc. .....I recommend reading the " Do's & Dont's " id this is your first Spyder .......... definitely check the Brakes .... the front bearings don't break as a rule .....but rod ends can get worn ...............& ...... Mike

[ThreeWheels]

My first thought was also a battery issue of some kind, either the battery itself or the terminals.
Especially a 2010. If original, the battery is getting pretty long in the tooth.

[kep-up]

Oil level, my friend. The SE5 is extremely sensitive to oil level. Oil is to checked when hot. If the level is more than a 1/4" low on the stick, all kinds of weird things may start happeneiing.

[Philrs]

Oil level, my friend. The SE5 is extremely sensitive to oil level. Oil is to checked when hot. If the level is more than a 1/4" low on the stick, all kinds of weird things may start happeneiing.

Being new to spyder and not even a mile driven. This site is really helping. I will change the oil and keep a critical eye on the oil.

It's been totaled since 2015. So still a lot of work

Phil

[Philrs]

Some folks here deny this is even remotely possible ...... However if IMHO the battery is at a low level of charge, it may NOT have the power to enact the " N" ( ie neutral ).... I had this happen to me on the way home from the Dealer after I just bought a New RT ..... I had the battery fail , I needed a jump start from a car, then " N " came on and I could start it..... Now I always make sure it's in NEUTRAL before I shut it Off ...... I see you have the V-twin engine, the charging system on them is MARGINAL .... You have to stay above 4000 RPM's in order for the battery to charge .... there is no fix, except to accept the fact and keep it on a Maintainer when not in use...... The " walk away thing " works but you don't have too go to far..... Remove the key and take it with you, the computers will re-boot in about 5 min....the Nanny is very quirky .... It will show CODES, without there actually being true FAILURE of a part etc. .....I recommend reading the " Do's & Dont's " id this is your first Spyder .......... definitely check the Brakes .... the front bearings don't break as a rule .....but rod ends can get worn ...............& ...... Mike

From the damage on this thing it looks like it was launched and impacted on it's right side. From moving it and driving it less than 100 yards. I had no indication of right front damage. However last night test driving within 50 feet a loud squeal like you hear from a break wear indicator sounded constantly. Only got it to about 20. Visually no damage except for the fender twisted out of position. Gonna jack it up and start checking everything as soon as I have some time. Only has 8k, so not thinking breaks, but its gonna be my first check after I just twist the crap out of the wheel to see is anything grinds

I will post and probably ask for advise.

Phil

[yellow peril]

If in gear it will not start unless you hold down the brake pedal. It will go into neutral after starting.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

From the damage on this thing it looks like it was launched and impacted on it's right side. From moving it and driving it less than 100 yards. I had no indication of right front damage. However last night test driving within 50 feet a loud squeal like you hear from a break wear indicator sounded constantly. Only got it to about 20. Visually no damage except for the fender twisted out of position. Gonna jack it up and start checking everything as soon as I have some time. Only has 8k, so not thinking breaks, but its gonna be my first check after I just twist the crap out of the wheel to see is anything grinds

I will post and probably ask for advise.

Phil

Make sure the oil is at FULL operating temp and you follow the steps to check it ..... if you don't have the Owners manual you can get them on-line .....and it sounds like you are doing the wrenching .....You can get a Shop manual on-line ( like Green Manuals.com ) for about $30.00 ...INVALUABLE ..... remember the wheel goes about 6 ft. to make one rotation, so in 50ft you have made 4+ ..... if you are only hearing the sound once in the 50 ft. distance I don't think it's the disc...........good luck ..... Mike .......... PS I ONLY take Oil amount readings AFTER a normal ride time ....Then it's guaranteed to be at proper level, and you don't have to waste time waiting for it to get there, and then you know it's correct BEFORE you ride

[ARtraveler]

As mentioned above. Oil level could be one factor. A bad battery is also known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins to appear.

When you are turning on the key, do you have your foot on the brake? That is usually what initiates the N sequence.

[SpyderJerry]

I put my purchased totaled 2013 RT Se5 together last August. It had a mutitude of codes to be cleared from the crash. Only real problem was frt oxygen sensor. This was a full disassemble and build back into a new frame. Most outer plastic survived, but sub structure plastic had to be replaced. I did laser alignment and just put in the Baja Rons bar. It now handles and runs great.

[Philrs]

As mentioned above. Oil level could be one factor. A bad battery is also known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins to appear.

When you are turning on the key, do you have your foot on the brake? That is usually what initiates the N sequence.

Only started it like 7 times so far. Each time after the mode key is pressed. Parking break on, it would turn right over. Last night was the first time I had the starting issue. But as I stated and most of you have commented.. I believe my oil was way low.


Thanks for the help

Phil

[Philrs]

I put my purchased totaled 2013 RT Se5 together last August. It had a mutitude of codes to be cleared from the crash. Only real problem was frt oxygen sensor. This was a full disassemble and build back into a new frame. Most outer plastic survived, but sub structure plastic had to be replaced. I did laser alignment and just put in the Baja Rons bar. It now handles and runs great.

A lot of little things. Frunk is broke in at least 6 places. Handle bars bent. Crap like that. But I'm getting there. I had a lot of codes also. But worked through most of them and after reassembly of most of the electrical, a lot shut off


Thanks and I hope your ride continues to perform

Phil