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Very Active Member
OIL CHANGE - upgraded to full synthetic!
FINALLY upgraded to FULL SYNTHETIC OIL....
i did an oil change today on my F3S, SE6... it now has FULL SYNTHETIC VALVOLINE 4T oil...
took her for a short ride, and i was surprised at just how smoooooth the shifting is now - WOW...! ! ! i love it...
i've always used the BRP blended oil in both my RS and F3... my dealer charges $13 per qt, and the VALVOLINE was $6.67 at Walmarts... no brainer, i'd say...
WALMARTS: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...Quart/16777818
NOTE: the old oil had 9028 miles of smiles on it, and it truly looked golden... just a few shades off from new... i wouldn't recommend anyone going past the 9200 mile mark just because of the color... this is only a 'statement' of what it looked like...
however, i do recommend the VALVOLINE oil to any and all...
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Congrats....
Good choice you will be happy with it...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Too late
Damm already paid 79 for the dealer suggested oil change kit. Next time
Gonna try the vavoline
Phil bakersfield
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Very Active Member
4 T oil
Originally Posted by Philrs
Damm already paid 79 for the dealer suggested oil change kit. Next time
Gonna try the vavoline
Phil bakersfield
You won't be disappointed ....switching to Full Syn is the way to go ...... this Valvoline has the second lowest amount of Molybdenum ( which is bad for a wet clutch ) in the full syn industry....the lowest is Amsoil, but it costs quite a bit more .... Mike
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Very Active Member
WOW..!
WOW, i'm here to tell you that SYNTHETIC OIL makes a world of difference....
I just got in from a short ride, 81 miles of smiles, and that new VALVOLINE FULL SYNTHETIC oil makes for much smoother shifting, and the engines seems to run smoother and quiets down by 10 decibels...
i'm sold on this oil....
just thought y'all would like to know....
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Very Active Member
thanks for the update
have been thinking about the Valvoline and have used it in other bikes.
Now I know, and my oil change coming up will be done with the Valvoline.
Already have the filter kit from Bajaron.
2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Oil Change
Thanks For the INFO. Next Time Valvoline will be my 'OIL of Choice'. A question for you, How big of a Job was THIS? Time?
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Very Active Member
NOT BAD
Originally Posted by Little Blue
Thanks For the INFO. Next Time Valvoline will be my 'OIL of Choice'. A question for you, How big of a Job was THIS? Time?
NOT a bad job... more like FUN...
took me less than 1 hour, but i mess around during the process...
you'll need to get your ride off the floor for easy access to the underside...
keep in mind there are 2 drain plugs 1 on either side of the engine...
these are the tools you'll need to perform the Oil Change:
20180409_103810.jpg
from top left - bottom right:
lights are essential, i use a 'stand up' and a 'hand held'...
a torque wrench...
a cup to hold screws & push pins...
a TORX T25 to remove screws of the right side panel... mine is in a power driver...
a 17mm open end wrench for the drain plug on the right side (i hope you have GOLD PLUGS, otherwise you'll need TROX)...
a small screw driver to help remove old O rings...
a 3" & 6" 3/8 drive extensions, with a 14mm socket for left side plug, again GOLD PLUGS... and a ratchet wrench...
Channel Locks to remove the oil filter cap... be careful here, the cap has an very thin extension that goes down the middle of the filter and if forced, it could break... you'll need to hold the old filter up inside the cap for easy removal of this assembly...
a push pin extractor...
hope this helps, and good luck...
Dan P
SPYD3R
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Oil Change
Thank You for you quick reply. The INFO was just what I needed, Guess I need to buy a lift.
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Very Active Member
RAMPS
Originally Posted by Little Blue
Thank You for you quick reply. The INFO was just what I needed, Guess I need to buy a lift.
i use RAMPS.....
Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...nk%2Cf&q=ramps
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Active Member
Newbie question.
I was considering buying a Harbor Freight lift to adjust front shocks. Can the lift also be used for an oil change on a 2012 RT? Maybe in conjunction with jackstands?
Thanks!
Tony
2012 RT-S SE5 - Viper Red
Castle Atom SV Tarmac Modular Helmets
Sena SMH5 Headsets
Ultraguard Half Cover
Hopnel Luggage: Frunk, Top Case, and Saddlebags
Big Bike Parts Short Spiral Antenna
Kumho Ecsta AST 225/50R15 Rear Tire - Got almost 18,000 miles before replacement with Riken Raptor
Vredestein Quatrac 5 165/65R-14 Front Tires
BajaRon Spark Plugs and Wires
EBC Rear Pads and Rotor from BajaRon
Riken Raptor HR 215/60-15 Rear Tire
Future Plans:
2013 Cooling Kit
BajaRon Sway Bar
High-Mount Brake Light
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Very Active Member
YES
Originally Posted by TRBorslien
Newbie question.
I was considering buying a Harbor Freight lift to adjust front shocks. Can the lift also be used for an oil change on a 2012 RT? Maybe in conjunction with jackstands?
Thanks!
YES....
however, the HF lift tends to get in the way of accessing the drain plugs and eliminates a drain pan of any size... however, it is possible, but can be pretty messy... if you use the 'lift' & jack stands, place the jack stands under the A-arms, then remove the lift... this will make life much easier for you....
PS; put a rag or some rubber between the jack stand contact points and the A-arms... otherwise, you may scratch the paint on the A-arms...
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Very Active Member
the Harbour Freight ATV lift works just fine. If you get it in the right place it will balance the Spyder. Jack the suspension all the way up to get it under the spyder.My lift also has a lock on it that blocks it from sinking down. I also run a strap over the seat to tie it so it wont slip.
I also use a pair + 1 of ramps. I run the spyder up on two then jack the rear end up and put a 3rd under the rear wheel. That is a lot cheaper then the HF jack and has become my prefered method of lifting.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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[QUOTE=SPYD3R;1351171]NOT a bad job... more like FUN...
took me less than 1 hour, but i mess around during the process...
you'll need to get your ride off the floor for easy access to the underside...
keep in mind there are 2 drain plugs 1 on either side of the engine...
these are the tools you'll need to perform the Oil Change:
20180409_103810.jpg
from top left - bottom right:
lights are essential, i use a 'stand up' and a 'hand held'...
a torque wrench...
a cup to hold screws & push pins...
a TORX T25 to remove screws of the right side panel... mine is in a power driver...
a 17mm open end wrench for the drain plug on the right side (i hope you have GOLD PLUGS, otherwise you'll need TROX)...
a small screw driver to help remove old O rings...
a 3" & 6" 3/8 drive extensions, with a 14mm socket for left side plug, again GOLD PLUGS... and a ratchet wrench...
Channel Locks to remove the oil filter cap... be careful here, the cap has an very thin extension that goes down the middle of the filter and if forced, it could break... you'll need to hold the old filter up inside the cap for easy removal of this assembly...
a push pin extractor...
hope this helps, and good luck...
Dan P
Is this the correct size for the drain plugs...when you swap them out to the gold plugs...same size? do the o rings come with the gold plugs?
https://goldplug.com/shop/mp18/
Last edited by marty1096; 04-12-2018 at 01:29 AM.
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Very Active Member
YES & YES
[QUOTE=marty1096;1351290]
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
NOT a bad job... more like FUN...
took me less than 1 hour, but i mess around during the process...
you'll need to get your ride off the floor for easy access to the underside...
keep in mind there are 2 drain plugs 1 on either side of the engine...
these are the tools you'll need to perform the Oil Change:
20180409_103810.jpg
from top left - bottom right:
lights are essential, i use a 'stand up' and a 'hand held'...
a torque wrench...
a cup to hold screws & push pins...
a TORX T25 to remove screws of the right side panel... mine is in a power driver...
a 17mm open end wrench for the drain plug on the right side (i hope you have GOLD PLUGS, otherwise you'll need TROX)...
a small screw driver to help remove old O rings...
a 3" & 6" 3/8 drive extensions, with a 14mm socket for left side plug, again GOLD PLUGS... and a ratchet wrench...
Channel Locks to remove the oil filter cap... be careful here, the cap has an very thin extension that goes down the middle of the filter and if forced, it could break... you'll need to hold the old filter up inside the cap for easy removal of this assembly...
a push pin extractor...
hope this helps, and good luck...
Dan P
Is this the correct size for the drain plugs. when you swap them out to the gold plugs...same size? YES do the o rings come with the gold plugs? YES, if i remember correctly, they do come with the O Rings....
https://goldplug.com/shop/mp18/
YES & YES.......
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Gold Plug
The referenced Web Site Says, 'must reuse your stock/o-rings'. Did not see anything about THEM offering to sell the necessary o-rings. The Aluminum washer is included with the Plug (MP-18).
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Very Active Member
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 04-12-2018 at 11:11 PM.
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