150,000 mile report

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

Some time ago a poster asked me to keep a maintenance record of
my '14 RT-S. I've been very lucky with this bike. I took it in for service
March 22nd. I have the ISCI hand brake. Well,I had to refill the reservoir
before each ride. Brake fluid was dripping on the muffler and it ate all the
paint off. I thought a group of mice moved in and had a dinner party.
Instead the master cylinder sprung a leak. Replaced under warranty.
The rear air compressor stopped working too. That's the second one
that's failed. The first went bad at 90,000 or so. Replaced under warranty.
I noticed the steering was loose. The entire steering column was replaced,
again under warranty.
If anybody plans to keep their bikes and pile up miles, it's a good idea to
spring for the extended BEST warranty. It cost me $1500 last June for 2
years. I'm pretty sure these repairs would have cost more than that. I was
charged $50 for each item.
I needed a rear brake rotor. I let the pads wear too long. That's the 5th set
of brake pads I've gone through. I ordered the rotor and pads from Bajaron.
I had the spark plugs, air filter and oil done too. I took my own oil in since
I've been using Amsoil. Parts and labor came to $912.
Now I'm good for more miles. If only it would get warm enough to enjoy it.
If anybody is interested I'll post again at 175,000, be around early August.
Buckeye Chuck
The stock rotor was near $300, Ron's was $139. I've used Ron's fully sintered
pads the last 3 sets. The pads and rotor I paid for. I've run the stock rear
wheel bearings since new and thought it was time for new ones. I paid for
those too.

[MR. H1956]

Some time ago a poster asked me to keep a maintenance record of
my '14 RT-S. I've been very lucky with this bike. I took it in for service
March 22nd. I have the ISCI hand brake. Well,I had to refill the reservoir
before each ride. Brake fluid was dripping on the muffler and it ate all the
paint off. I thought a group of mice moved in and had a dinner party.
Instead the master cylinder sprung a leak. Replaced under warranty.
The rear air compressor stopped working too. That's the second one
that's failed. The first went bad at 90,000 or so. Replaced under warranty.
I noticed the steering was loose. The entire steering column was replaced,
again under warranty.
If anybody plans to keep their bikes and pile up miles, it's a good idea to
spring for the extended BEST warranty. It cost me $1500 last June for 2
years. I'm pretty sure these repairs would have cost more than that. I was
charged $50 for each item.
I needed a rear brake rotor. I let the pads wear too long. That's the 5th set
of brake pads I've gone through. I ordered the rotor and pads from Bajaron.
I had the spark plugs, air filter and oil done too. I took my own oil in since
I've been using Amsoil. Parts and labor came to $912.
Now I'm good for more miles. If only it would get warm enough to enjoy it.
If anybody is interested I'll post again at 175,000, be around early August.
Buckeye Chuck
The stock rotor was near $300, Ron's was $139. I've used Ron's fully sintered
pads the last 3 sets. The pads and rotor I paid for. I've run the stock rear
wheel bearings since new and thought it was time for new ones. I paid for
those too.

That's great. If I can get that out of our 2011RT I'll be very ☺

[Joel The Biker]

How about belt changes, any major repairs, clutch, does motor use oil?

[SpyderAnn01]

That’s great news!

[Roadster Renovations]

Very great news!!

[ofdave]

fantastic!!

you realize there will be more than a few here who are disappointed to hear your good experience

I'm thinking yours might be more normal than we have come to expect

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that your Spyder is still giving good service...
Let's all hope that the NEXT 150,000 miles is even better!

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

Yes, I did need a new drive belt at 108,000. This is the first bike I've ever owned
that used a belt, I was a little leary of this. The dealer told me a belt would last 50,000+.
I got 50K plus-plus.
What? A 1330 ACE engine using oil? This engine has never used or leaked a drop of oil.
Never any issues with the engine of any kind.
I read on this forum of horror stories some owners have. I feel bad for them, there's always
something going on giving problems. Some are lemons, some are cherries. Mine's a cherry.
I'll ride this bike as long as I'm able.
CHuck

How about belt changes, any major repairs, clutch, does motor use oil?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Chuck - what happened to the first belt ....what caused you to re-place it.........Thanks ..... Mike

[Tango]

WOW!

[shiney side up]

Very impressive.

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

When my Spyder was young, about 16,000 miles, I noticed a bump in the middle of the belt.
I thought it was a stone but couldn't see anything underneath. I took it to the dealer and was
told to replace it. The bill was on me to pay and I didn't want to spend $350 so I thought I'd
just check it from time to time. It never got any worse.
Then one afternoon I was having a great ride, riding along at 75, I heard and felt a POP. I
pulled over and found a very hard piece of rubber sticking out of the hole where the bump had been.
It was one of the teeth on the belt I came to find. Two teeth were gone right next to the hole. Two teeth
out of hundreds? I wasn't worried. But I headed home anyway. Good thing I did. I was 14 miles
from home. But after only 5 or so miles I got worried, it kept running rougher and rougher. I did
make it home. I gave some throttle to get it in the garage and nothing happened. The engine revved
but went nowhere. Then I saw a good third of the teeth were gone! I guess when one goes the rest
are sure to follow. Had to have it towed to the dealer. The service manager said they had to push
it to get it in the shop. I had them replace my rear tire at the same time, it was getting close anyway.
On a side note, that tire they took off was a General Altimax RT43 and it had 27,000 miles on it.
That was the first General I ever tried and have been using them since. Helluva lot better than crapenda.

That was at 108,000 miles. So now I keep checking the belt every time I check tire air pressure.
I've read on here that when the teeth get little cracks in them it's time to replace. I think that's true,
and also think the older the belt is that will happen the fewer miles. Not everybody rides like me and
a belt 5-7 years old, regardless of miles that rubber will weaken, or is it harden?
SpyderAnn said once she replaced her belt at around 100,000 on her '14 RT but I don't know what
caused her to replace. A belt may be on it's last few miles at only 30,000 miles, but may be 5-7 years old.

Hope this answers your question Mike.
Now get out and ride! Easy for me to say, sitting here at 2:30 in the afternoon, but it's 35 degrees outside
and snowing! Snow and 35 on April 9th?? I'm sure it's not any better in your neck of the woods. But I
do have something to do, I got my RT side case repair kit from Steve at Roadster Renovations. When
my RT was in the shop last week getting all those warranty issues fixed, when I got home I saw one of
the hinges on the right side case was broken. Of course it was like that when I took it in. I told them but
didn't complain, I knew it was just a matter of time when one broke. You know, these are great bikes but for
$30,000 you'd think they'd make some things better. Good thing we have Lamonster, Bajaron and Steve as
well as others to keep our rides riding.
Chuck

Hi Chuck - what happened to the first belt ....what caused you to re-place it.........Thanks ..... Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for that bit of info ........... PS I'm not sure there is " ANY " rubber in our drive belts ......see you at Spyderfest ......... Mike