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Ya, a nice big 150db train air horn would fit in there nicely.
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Thanks for the replies guys, BUT the Can Am grips apparently reply the throttle-by-wire side completely.
I really need to know If I can cut the grip off that side and fit with OTS heated grips, anyone know anyone that's done it?
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Originally Posted by Black Pig
Can standard off the shelf heated grips be fitted? Or do we have to stick to overpriced poorly made tat from Can Am?
Got my F3 completely nekkid at the moment I am getting the panels wrapped and I have a set of HG grips on the shelf, just want to check before I start cutting stuff up..
Lots of wasted space in here.. could get horny with it, maybe a stebel?
Won't it be nice to find a way to install a latch door to have access to all that space ???
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
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Originally Posted by Wildrice
Won't it be nice to find a way to install a latch door to have access to all that space ???
Looks to me like an oversized frunk could be made to make use of some of that space. Probably needs to be 2 piece - cut the lower tub off of the existing top ring and insert a new/larger tub through the front, then screw/seal together. There are multiple options for materials to make the new tub out of - perhaps even insulated with a 12v Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler device.
Regards,
Don
Last edited by dondje; 04-09-2018 at 10:25 AM.
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Gripsphone
The grip is bonded to the throttle tube. You can’t cut the grip from the tube. The BRP kit replaces the trotttle tube and has the heat element bonded into the grip. Very expensive.
My solution is I used snowmobile throttle wraps over the grips on my 2013 ST. Works fine in the cold in Pittsburgh. Bought the throttle wraps on EBay. Easy to install and wire. Have a 2 position heat control switch.
Good Luck
David C
2016 F3T
DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
Battery tender cable
Rear IPS Pack Rack
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Advise a PWM motor control for heat adjustment. This is the same Pulse Width Modulator used by WarmnSafe/ Gerbing / et al >CLICK ME<
Put some Grip Puppies >CLICK ME< with some heating coils >CLICK ME< >CLICK ME< under them. The puppies will help with heat distribution and make it easy to install the coils under them on top of current grips. I linked to eBay, but there are other sources out there. You could make your own heaters for under $30 the Puppies Being the most expensive part.
I've used this method on my '01 Kawasaki Quad successfully. Heated clothing?? >CLICK ME<
quadinwoods.jpg
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Thanks for the info guys. Sorry for the late reply I am languishing in hospital just now bloody sepsis
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Originally Posted by Wildrice
Won't it be nice to find a way to install a latch door to have access to all that space ???
I wouldn't block the radiator air flow. As to grip heat, you should be able to install any kit you want.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
I'm with Highwayman on this one!! I wouldn't be blocking or reducing the air flow to the radiators thru that gap around the F3 frunk at all!! It's not as if BRP haven't already experienced the potential issues caused by restricting airflow to the radiators & around the engines on any of these Spyders; after all, there WAS a fairly expensive to them mandatory recall on the 2013 RT's mainly to improve the airflow & enhance the management of hot air under the tupperware!! And the newer RT's have both bigger radiators AND bigger/wider tupperware & ducting to allow more air flow than the earlier versions, while the F3's get that big 'mouth' of a tractor grille up front & the smaller frunk bucket largely to let enough air get thru to those bigger radiators..... so it might not be a great idea to reduce that extra airflow too much!!
Heated grips tho, I can't help much there; but has anyone ever tried cooling them?? Ambient temps of 38 degrees Celsius makes for 'bloody hot' out in the sun, so cooled grips & seats would really be popular down my way!!
First off, I apologize for contributing to going off topicin this thread.
Peter…
I understand you reservations with my thought. I am also a newbie here and have never seen more than the pictures in this thread to draw my conclusions.I have no idea what is or isn’t behind the frunk That said, I have spent sometime as a journeyman in the HVAC industry, giving me some experience with airflow.
My guess is that the worst case scenario for cooling would be something like; exiting the freeway after a spirited ride on a 120degafternoon, just to be sitting at the off ramp stop light over egg frying pavement. Light turns and then pulling out into stop & go traffic. No real air flow over engine and non-fan affected areas of the radiators. Would have to fill that compartment pretty full of frunk in order to reduce air flow to the radiatorfans and engine in this scenario.
What I see in the pics, is that there looks to be minimal direction of air, there is probably turbulence in the front compartment during speed. May even be causing diminished air flow over radiators and perhaps increased drag and reduced mpg. I believe that I see where properly designed air ducting would actually improve air flow, reduce turbulence, and probably allow for a larger frunk. That said, I am too worried about doing something that affects the warranty,than to do something like that on a new ride.
Still, some cardboard, duct tape, and temp and air flow sensors linked to an app, and spare time, would tell the story.
Regards,
Don
Last edited by dondje; 04-10-2018 at 01:06 PM.
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